Nathanj1142 Posted February 22, 2021 Share Posted February 22, 2021 (edited) Hey guys. Managed to get my engine back in the supra yesterday - now i just need to sort all the wiring and get her running again! I've got fresh king racing main and con rod bearings, as well as new piston rings (GE pistons). What would be the best procedure for seating the piston rings? I've read plenty of methods but there doesn't seem to be one that really applies to my situation. JM have advised to run the base map on the Link and adjust accordingly. I sort of understand the software principles, I'm no expert but I'm positive I can get the car turned over, but that's about it... im assuming it needs some sort of boost to correctly seat the rings? idk? Do people bother with purpose built break in oil? Oil weight and brand, mileage intervals etc... Edited February 22, 2021 by Nathanj1142 (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Noz Posted February 22, 2021 Share Posted February 22, 2021 Some run the car and limit the RPM / boost. Others would put it on a dyno at a given RPM and let it cover the mileage. I usually see people use the same end goal oil. Then drain it before power runs. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Style Posted February 22, 2021 Share Posted February 22, 2021 I put 1000 miles on mine, 500 were motorway, giving it some low end 3/4 pedal runs up to around 4krpm in 6th to put some load on it. The other 500 was just pottering around, up and down the gears. Increased the rpm every 100 miles or so and just used regular (but cheaper) fully synthetic oil. Same weight as normal which I THINK is 10w50 from memory but could be wrong. Changed oil/filter after 500 and then again after the 1000 was complete. Checked the plugs, quick compression test and good to go. I had a map put on the car for the run in though, ECU's have come a long way recently with smart learning etc. but driving around on a base map would leave me a bit uneasy. That might just be me though, my mechanical sympathy is pathetic 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nathanj1142 Posted March 1, 2021 Author Share Posted March 1, 2021 thanks for the replies guys. im not sure how i want to do it. Whifbitz said they want the car broken in on the dyno but i sort of wanted to do the break in myself as then i can iron out any issues to avoid labour costs etc. JM said i can just run the link base map which doesnt seem right as its for the GTE? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Noz Posted March 1, 2021 Share Posted March 1, 2021 I nearly recommended Whifbitz for advice but I don't want to send someone to him to just ask questions. But glad you spoke to him, is he mapping it? My opinion is you won't see any issues `breaking it in` that you won't run into just running it. Whereas you can run into issues as soon as you boost properly so I think it's false economy trying to iron anything out. As you're more likely have issues boosting (assuming no engine build problems). Run it in on the dyno is my vote, he's mapping it anyway by sounds of it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
T2 MSW Posted March 1, 2021 Share Posted March 1, 2021 (edited) There are arguments either way TBH. Breaking in hard and fast on the dyno is the racers method and may get you more power. But breaking in on the road will allow you time to work through any minor teething issues. Theres nothing to stop you pottering about on a base map with zero boost just to check all the systems over and then hand it to Paul to run in on the dyno. You will find with a new build the first dyno run won't be smooth anyway, when I did my built engine I did the 1000 miles road run in and it was fine - first time it saw boost it hoped boost lines and there was an issue with the waste gate so it had to go back a second time. If I did it again Id also go with the dyno hard and fast run in method. Paul knows what he is doing and if thats what he is recommending then thats what id go with. Edited March 1, 2021 by T2 MSW (see edit history) 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jim_supra Posted March 1, 2021 Share Posted March 1, 2021 I had mine run in by whifbitz on their Dyno after I rebuilt it (standard engine), there was some boosting issues it turns out, which was a very simple fix for them but it would've taken me a lot longer to find, diagnose and sort the problem. It cost a fair bit to get the car sent from Hull to Caldicot on a flatbed, but the drive back was pretty good! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nathanj1142 Posted March 2, 2021 Author Share Posted March 2, 2021 22 hours ago, jim_supra said: I had mine run in by whifbitz on their Dyno after I rebuilt it (standard engine), there was some boosting issues it turns out, which was a very simple fix for them but it would've taken me a lot longer to find, diagnose and sort the problem. It cost a fair bit to get the car sent from Hull to Caldicot on a flatbed, but the drive back was pretty good! aye im based in Hull too, although have RAC cover so might have to do a little claim lol. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jim_supra Posted March 2, 2021 Share Posted March 2, 2021 12 minutes ago, Nathanj1142 said: aye im based in Hull too, although have RAC cover so might have to do a little claim lol. Fingers crossed, though if they won't, then I used Kingston recovery, who did it for £550. They've done a few trips from Hull to Whifbitz it turns out! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nathanj1142 Posted March 2, 2021 Author Share Posted March 2, 2021 Just now, jim_supra said: Fingers crossed, though if they won't, then I used Kingston recovery, who did it for £550. They've done a few trips from Hull to Whifbitz it turns out! Did you get the car running before taking it to paul? rather iron out most the fiddly bits to save on labour cost lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jim_supra Posted March 2, 2021 Share Posted March 2, 2021 3 minutes ago, Nathanj1142 said: Did you get the car running before taking it to paul? rather iron out most the fiddly bits to save on labour cost lol I got it running (was a bit rough on initial start up, but perfectly fine by the time it got to Whifbitz bizarrely) it had a slight overheating issue due to the radiator/ viscous fan needing changing, but the main issue was that it wasn't MOT'd so couldn't get it out on the road to test and so it was always my intention to get it to them for running in and then for any work it needed to get it through its MOT. I suppose it depends on what crops up when you fire it up, there might be nothing/ very little, but might be lots, until you turn the key you won't know. Fingers crossed there's not a lot, as looks like it's been done right. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nathanj1142 Posted March 2, 2021 Author Share Posted March 2, 2021 13 minutes ago, jim_supra said: I got it running (was a bit rough on initial start up, but perfectly fine by the time it got to Whifbitz bizarrely) it had a slight overheating issue due to the radiator/ viscous fan needing changing, but the main issue was that it wasn't MOT'd so couldn't get it out on the road to test and so it was always my intention to get it to them for running in and then for any work it needed to get it through its MOT. I suppose it depends on what crops up when you fire it up, there might be nothing/ very little, but might be lots, until you turn the key you won't know. Fingers crossed there's not a lot, as looks like it's been done right. did you just run on the NA ecu then? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
T2 MSW Posted March 2, 2021 Share Posted March 2, 2021 Are you using the Link? I would get your mapper to provide a base map, and then turn on the feedback/self map feature to enable you to start it yourself and have the ECU learn. You would never run the ECU full time like this but it enables you to Get a base map on there and fire it up whilst monitoring what its doing. Then when your sure its happy go through and check for leaks, cooling etc etc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nathanj1142 Posted March 2, 2021 Author Share Posted March 2, 2021 (edited) 4 minutes ago, T2 MSW said: Are you using the Link? I would get your mapper to provide a base map, and then turn on the feedback/self map feature to enable you to start it yourself and have the ECU learn. You would never run the ECU full time like this but it enables you to Get a base map on there and fire it up whilst monitoring what its doing. Then when your sure its happy go through and check for leaks, cooling etc etc Yeh im using the link. Paul send he cant simply send over a base map as it doesn't work like that as every car is different? JM said that i can use the base map on the Link but that's for a GTE? I'm confident i can set the ignition timing myself and the fuelling but i wouldn't be comfortable adjusting the AFR on the first start-up to stop it becoming to lean/rich. Using that self map feature you mentioned I'm sure I could get something to work? Thanks! Edited March 2, 2021 by Nathanj1142 (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
T2 MSW Posted March 2, 2021 Share Posted March 2, 2021 1 minute ago, Nathanj1142 said: Yeh im using the link. Paul send he cant simply send over a base map as it doesn't work like that as every car is different? JM said that i can use the base map on the Link but that's for a GTE? I'm confident i can set the ignition timing myself and the fuelling but i wouldn't be comfortable adjusting the AFR on the first start-up to stop it becoming to lean/rich. Using that self map feature you mentioned I'm sure I could get something to work? Thanks! Paul is correct, each car is different. However im sure he has a baseline for a NA-T to get started on. If its just for fire-up so you can check the engine over and make sure cooling works, that should be easily achievable remotely Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nathanj1142 Posted March 2, 2021 Author Share Posted March 2, 2021 6 minutes ago, T2 MSW said: Paul is correct, each car is different. However im sure he has a baseline for a NA-T to get started on. If its just for fire-up so you can check the engine over and make sure cooling works, that should be easily achievable remotely I’ll have to see what he says when I get closer to starting the engine. Thanks for the help mate Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
T2 MSW Posted March 2, 2021 Share Posted March 2, 2021 (edited) Sounds like you have a fair bit infront of you before even worrying about firing it. Id be looking to get the car to a state where you have done everything you think you need to in order for the car to fire. Then pull all the fuel Fuses, and disconnect all spark plugs. Take your oil feed to the turbo off and place in a pot. Crank till you get oil out the turbo feed. Re-assemble oil feed. then crank again and make sure you are getting good oil at the top of your engine and its draining from the turbo (and not leaking) Check the ECU is seeing good feeds from cam, crank sensors. Not sure about the Link but on the Syvecs you could do coil tests and go through each spark plug to ensure it sparks. (assuming you are not dizzy) Put fuel fuses back in and ensure getting fuel to your rail. Can do all of that before even thinking of hot fire Edited March 2, 2021 by T2 MSW (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nathanj1142 Posted March 2, 2021 Author Share Posted March 2, 2021 45 minutes ago, T2 MSW said: Sounds like you have a fair bit infront of you before even worrying about firing it. Id be looking to get the car to a state where you have done everything you think you need to in order for the car to fire. Then pull all the fuel Fuses, and disconnect all spark plugs. Take your oil feed to the turbo off and place in a pot. Crank till you get oil out the turbo feed. Re-assemble oil feed. then crank again and make sure you are getting good oil at the top of your engine and its draining from the turbo (and not leaking) Check the ECU is seeing good feeds from cam, crank sensors. Not sure about the Link but on the Syvecs you could do coil tests and go through each spark plug to ensure it sparks. (assuming you are not dizzy) Put fuel fuses back in and ensure getting fuel to your rail. Can do all of that before even thinking of hot fire Yeah still got a long road ahead of me, i just like to plan in advance so i can start figuring out costs etc... thanks for the details! Did you run break in oil or just normal synthetic? (first hot start). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
T2 MSW Posted March 2, 2021 Share Posted March 2, 2021 Id personally use break in oil if its new bearings, id defer to the engine builders and mappers recommendations Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nathanj1142 Posted March 2, 2021 Author Share Posted March 2, 2021 6 minutes ago, T2 MSW said: Id personally use break in oil if its new bearings, id defer to the engine builders and mappers recommendations Build the engine myself lol. Wish me luck! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan8 Posted March 2, 2021 Share Posted March 2, 2021 Hiya Nathan Have you registered your ecu over the LINK forum and signed up loads of info there I got a base map I can send you over I am running the LINK G4 Whifbitz turbo kit and FIC650 and walbro 450 just to get you started you tweak the rest mate Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan8 Posted March 2, 2021 Share Posted March 2, 2021 Still got to finish mine my self the subframes out at moment hence it just been a base map Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nathanj1142 Posted March 3, 2021 Author Share Posted March 3, 2021 im legit running the same setup - except am on whifbitz cop? i'd really appreciate that, ill send a pm over. I'll register my ECU at some point i didnt know i could do that! Cheers! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nathanj1142 Posted March 8, 2021 Author Share Posted March 8, 2021 (edited) Just an update, this is based off what romain from racecal has told me and various online forums. let me know what you guys think. Romain at race cal (maps for JM) - sending me over a base map and remote connecting to laptop when ready to fire up to ensure afr is correct etc. fill with millers break in oil. fill with toyota red coolant. crank engine with no fuel or spark - check oil pressure, ecu signals, minor leaks etc set ignition timing start up engine- varying between 1000-2000 rpm until up to temp, while a friend is checking for leaks. drop oil, change filter. refill with millers break in then do 100 miles upto 4500rpm, no constant rpm and lots of deceleration change oil to fully synth (prob castrol 10-40) 300 miles upto 5k rpm, drop oil change filter. 600 miles upto 5k rpm, drop oil change filter ready for dyno Edited March 8, 2021 by Nathanj1142 (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Noz Posted March 8, 2021 Share Posted March 8, 2021 Sounds like you have a plan. Good attack 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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