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The mkiv Supra Owners Club

How To Change an Auto Transmission - Extracted From The Supra Bible + Tips & Tricks


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Slackening off the bottom (19mm) nuts on the engine mountings and disconnecting the radiator top hose, allows the engine to "swing" and the transmission lowered at the back which makes the top bell-housing bolts easier to get at. (Retighten to 61lbft)

 

Socket extensions adding up to at least 1 metre, or better still one long one, wobble-joints or better still wobble-sockets and a narrow bright torch are your best friends.

 

As long as the battery is disconnected, the starter-motor and wires can be left in situ which saves a lot of fiddling about.

 

Use a long-handled 17mm open-ended spanner on the fluid-unions, keep it square on and be firm, yet take care not to damage them or the casting.

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You will spill ATF, be prepared with drip cans and rags.

 

Should fluid need draining from the cooler, a blast of compressed air up one pipe will blow it out of the other.

 

Another pair of hands holding a ratchet & 22mm socket on the crank-pulley bolt, helps to get at the torque-convertor bolts that are hiding behind the converter-plate femidom, mind your fingers in there! :slap:

 

Liberal squibings of WD40 on the exhaust-rubbers saves much knuckle-knocking and head-banging, several profanities and the occasional hernia...

 

A smear of grease on the torque-converter centre boss helps it slip into place in the flex plate.

 

Torque converter and flex-plate bolts are rotational and should be installed with Loctite.

 

Lucas SS is highly viscous, mixed with ATF it goes down the spout a lot easier.

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Replacing an N/A transmission with a Hybrid requires fitting;

 

 

T.T. flexplate with the welded side facing away from engine.

 

T.T. crank & torque-convertor bolts.

 

T.T. torque-convertor.

 

T.T. auto prop & donut.

 

T.T. diff prop-flange.

 

Longer fluid hoses and/or additional oil cooler.

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