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Aristo transmission (A340-LS) Valve body gasket


adi2009

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If you're talking about the sump pan, don't use a gasket because it will todger the pan.

Just clean the mating surfaces with brake cleaner and reassemble with a bead of Loctite SI 5660.

 

I have learned the hard way that transmission sumps become addicted to gaskets!

The pan is pressed from light gauge steel and the 6MT bolts with a squidgy gasket underneath, 6.5 ft lb pulls the pan around the bolt hole into the gasket.

This means that the originally flat surface around the perimeter of the pan becomes a rollercoaster by a millimetre or two between the bolt holes.

The gasket however, should seal up, however, the problem will surface next time the sump is removed.

Gaskets come in both rubber and cork flavours, with the cork version being twice as thick as the rubber.

These different gasket thicknesses cause different size rollercoasters and you will find that you can't use a rubber gasket after a cork one has been used, but you can use a cork one after a rubber one has been used. If you are not aware of this, this simple job can be transformed into a proper wind-up.

 

Do yourself a favour and don't use either of them, use sump sealant as OE.

 

 

However, if you are actually asking about valve-body gaskets.

Toyota Main Dealer or Amayama should be able to get you those.

There are two different gaskets in the valve-body, one for each side of the separation plate.

Don't trust aftermarket versions, they are not pattern correct.

If you are stripping the valve-body, it would be a good idea to replace the rubber check balls whilst you're at it, by now they will have worn to be egg shaped.

 

I'm not sure why folks expect me to keep squawking this information like a parrot because they are to lazy to browse in the Transmission Group; where I have taken great effort to explain this for their benefit, along with indexing everything else they could possibly wish to know?

 

All you need to do is look!

 

https://old.mkivsupra.net/vbb/group.php?discussionid=176&do=discuss

 

Maybe it's a not-so Smartphone thing?

Edited by David P (see edit history)
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If you're talking about the sump pan, don't use a gasket because it will todger the pan.

Just clean the mating surfaces with brake cleaner and reassemble with a bead of Loctite SI 5660.

 

I have learned the hard way that transmission sumps become addicted to gaskets!

The pan is pressed from light gauge steel and the 6MT bolts with a squidgy gasket underneath, 6.5 ft lb pulls the pan around the bolt hole into the gasket.

This means that the originally flat surface around the perimeter of the pan becomes a rollercoaster by a millimetre or two between the bolt holes.

The gasket however, should seal up, however, the problem will surface next time the sump is removed.

Gaskets come in both rubber and cork flavours, with the cork version being twice as thick as the rubber.

These different gasket thicknesses cause different size rollercoasters and you will find that you can't use a rubber gasket after a cork one has been used, but you can use a cork one after a rubber one has been used. If you are not aware of this, this simple job can be transformed into a proper wind-up.

 

Do yourself a favour and don't use either of them, use sump sealant as OE.

 

 

However, if you are actually asking about valve-body gaskets.

Toyota Main Dealer or Amayama should be able to get you those.

There are two different gaskets in the valve-body, one for each side of the separation plate.

Don't trust aftermarket versions, they are not pattern correct.

If you are stripping the valve-body, it would be a good idea to replace the rubber check balls whilst you're at it, by now they will have worn to be egg shaped.

 

I'm not sure why folks expect me to keep squawking this information like a parrot because they are to lazy to browse in the Transmission Group; where I have taken great effort to explain this for their benefit, along with indexing everything else they could possibly wish to know?

 

All you need to do is look!

 

https://old.mkivsupra.net/vbb/group.php?discussionid=176&do=discuss

 

Maybe it's a not-so Smartphone thing?

 

Hi David, thank you for the reply. I have had a look through your transmission section. I am looking to do the Transgo HD2 reprogramming kit on my Aristo Gen 2 transmission and have been through Amayama and Megazip and have not been able to find a valve body gasket for this vehicle. Hence, I thought I would check with you before actually dismantling the valve body. The last thing I want is to strip it apart and then realise that I cant find a valve body gasket (if I needed one). Any idea what I can do about this?

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Edited by adi2009 (see edit history)
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Hi David, thank you for the reply. I have had a look through your transmission section. I am looking to do the Transgo HD2 reprogramming kit on my Aristo Gen 2 transmission and have been through Amayama and Megazip and have not been able to find a valve body gasket for this vehicle. Hence, I thought I would check with you before actually dismantling the valve body. The last thing I want is to strip it apart and then realise that I cant find a valve body gasket (if I needed one). Any idea what I can do about this?

 

Have you tried asking a Toyota Main Dealer?

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P.S. I have never used a Transgo kit, yet from looking at it online it appears to have gaskets in the kit?

 

P.P.S. I have yet to see a transmission with a modified valve-body that is not too "fierce", my preference would be to leave the valve-body alone and shim-up the group of 3 accumulators by 10mm each. Which would save you a lot of intricate and very tricky work.

 

DO NOT shim the single accumulator, just give it's bore a good clean.

 

Take a look at this video of an automatic transmission with this mod, it transforms sluggish-shift changes into swift-slick changes. This is in a 500hp Supra and does not lose traction @ WOT when gears change.

 

 

I have shimmed two members Tiptronic boxes @ 8mm, one is in a still part finished project yet have not received any video feedback re. the other.

 

I have requested a video clip of the one that is in action and will post it when it turns up.

Edited by David P (see edit history)
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Have you tried asking a Toyota Main Dealer?

 

Unfortunately the Transgo kit did not come with a valve body gasket kit. I live in India and these cars were never sold here so the local dealers cant help me out with this. I always buy all my OEM parts from Amayama. However, this does pose a problem when you dont have a part number or the require item does not appear on the parts diagram. Do you know a Main Dealer in the UK who might be of help?

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P.S. I have never used a Transgo kit, yet from looking at it online it appears to have gaskets in the kit?

 

P.P.S. I have yet to see a transmission with a modified valve-body that is not too "fierce", my preference would be to leave the valve-body alone and shim-up the 3 front accumulators by 10mm each. Which would save you a lot of intricate and very tricky work.

 

Take a look at this video of an auto with this mod, it transforms sluggish shift changes into swift slick changes. This is in a 500hp Supra and does not lose traction when gears change.

 

 

I have shimmed two members Tiptronic boxes @ 8mm, one is in a still part finished project yet have not received any video feedback re. the other.

 

I have requested a video clip of the one that is in action and will post it when it turns up.

 

Thank you, I will take your advice on this and do that. I need to find a set of VB gaskets first!

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I checked for a 1999 Aristo JZS160, it appears it doesn't have two paper gaskets like the Supra non tiptronic auto valve bodies do. Instead there appears to be a single plate.

 

PLATE SUB-ASSY, VALVE BODY: 35406-30180

Aristo_ValveBody.jpg

 

I also checked the Aristo JZS161 and found that has a different part number: 35406-30230 (same part as Supra tiptronic)

Edited by Delboy52 (see edit history)
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I have never dismantled a Tiptronic valve-body, the one that I had I gave to Frank Bullitt.

 

I don't understand how it could function without gaskets?

 

The answer will be visible at the accumulator tops.

 

I will pm and ask him to take a look and report back.

 

Thank you! looking forward to hearing back from you. Cheers

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Having accepted that shimming the accumulators is a preferable alternative, you won't need to split the valve-body.

 

Which means that you don't need to concern yourself with availability of valve-body gaskets and have avoided a very tricky job.

 

Just be careful not to break the gaskets if it has them?

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