RZtwin Posted September 7, 2020 Share Posted September 7, 2020 (edited) Switching to single turbo, no oem oil cooler. If I cap/weld shut all coolant ports on head and GTE bypass pipe#2 that wraps around engine, except top rear center port and have coolant going to heater matrix in/out from the bypass pipe, Will my motor overheat or will the coolant flow normally as it should? Jay Edited September 7, 2020 by RZtwin (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Swampy442 Posted September 7, 2020 Share Posted September 7, 2020 It'll be fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RZtwin Posted September 7, 2020 Author Share Posted September 7, 2020 Can you send me pics of how you ran your heater hoses to bypass pipe? I'm wondering if I can cut the squiggly red portion completely off weld shut and just have coolant sent from water pump out to yellow arrow sent up to heater matrix, then from heater matrix to rear head? https://jza80.mkivsupra.net/imports/imports/2020/09/5.jpg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Swampy442 Posted September 7, 2020 Share Posted September 7, 2020 Cant see the picture bud Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RZtwin Posted September 7, 2020 Author Share Posted September 7, 2020 https://jza80.mkivsupra.net/imports/imports/2020/09/5.jpg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Swampy442 Posted September 9, 2020 Share Posted September 9, 2020 (edited) *edit* Need to check facts Edited September 9, 2020 by Swampy442 (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RZtwin Posted September 9, 2020 Author Share Posted September 9, 2020 *edit* Need to check facts https://jza80.mkivsupra.net/imports/imports/2020/09/6.jpg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RZtwin Posted September 9, 2020 Author Share Posted September 9, 2020 (edited) I'm wondering if I can cut the squiggly red portion completely off weld shut and just have coolant sent from water pump out to yellow arrow sent up to heater matrix, then from heater matrix to rear head? Edited September 9, 2020 by RZtwin (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RZtwin Posted September 9, 2020 Author Share Posted September 9, 2020 *edit* Need to check facts Pics up thank you Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike2JZ Posted September 9, 2020 Share Posted September 9, 2020 What you have painted in the imagine above is basically what the 2JZ-GE non vvti engines come with. They don't have the metal tube that goes around the block. So if you are able to find one from a GE you can install that and save yourself some aggro modifying your current one. For a few years now I've been running with a hardline from a GE without issue on big single setup. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RZtwin Posted September 9, 2020 Author Share Posted September 9, 2020 I guess my main question is, would I be impeding proper coolant flow to the head by not sending coolant to the intake side using the red squiggly lined portion shown in above pic? Also, I have placed the GE pipe next to the GTE pipe. The GE pipe inside diameter is smaller. I don't want to overheat as I track my car. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike2JZ Posted September 9, 2020 Share Posted September 9, 2020 (edited) I guess my main question is, would I be impeding proper coolant flow to the head by not sending coolant to the intake side using the red squiggly lined portion shown in above pic? Also, I have placed the GE pipe next to the GTE pipe. The GE pipe inside diameter is smaller. I don't want to overheat as I track my car. That hardline setup is a coolant return back to pump/rad for the heater core, IACV, TB etc, not a feed for the head. The water pump pushes coolant through the block & head internally before it returns through a few different paths back to the radiator. One route is using the hardline. So long as the main hardline return is used to return coolant from the head/heater core back to the rad, then all the auxiliary stuff like TB, IACV, Oil Cooler etc are in my opinion optional. From my own experience I have not noted any major difference in cooling performance regardless if I'm driving on the road, on the track or on a eurotrip doing 9 hour drives. I couldn't tell you what the difference would be in a few mm diameter difference between a GE & GTE hardline, but I don't think the GE causes any bottleneck. But if it makes you sleep better at night then just use a modified GTE hardline, it will work fine. Edited September 9, 2020 by Mike2JZ (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RZtwin Posted September 9, 2020 Author Share Posted September 9, 2020 That hardline setup is a coolant return back to pump/rad for the heater core, IACV, TB etc, not a feed for the head. The water pump pushes coolant through the block & head internally before it returns through a few different paths back to the radiator. One route is using the hardline. So long as the main hardline return is used to return coolant from the head/heater core back to the rad, then all the auxiliary stuff like TB, IACV, Oil Cooler etc are in my opinion optional. From my own experience I have not noted any major difference in cooling performance regardless if I'm driving on the road, on the track or on a eurotrip doing 9 hour drives. I couldn't tell you what the difference would be in a few mm diameter difference between a GE & GTE hardline, but I don't think the GE causes any bottleneck. But if it makes you sleep better at night then just use a modified GTE hardline, it will work fine. Thank you Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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