mellonman Posted September 3, 2020 Share Posted September 3, 2020 It's not going to be pads , but you should do the tests suggested to save wasting your time swapping them out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fulcrum2000 Posted September 3, 2020 Author Share Posted September 3, 2020 Thanks I just purchased the Fuchc 4400 I'll keep everyone updated about whether the altering of the level sorts out the problem Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fulcrum2000 Posted September 3, 2020 Author Share Posted September 3, 2020 It's not going to be pads , but you should do the tests suggested to save wasting your time swapping them out. Hi Mellonman I did the tests I can push it but only just and its much harder to push backwards then forwards, to be honest not only am I having squeal up to 15mph since I put the CW pads in but they are very squeally in general especially when pulling to a stop and I just want to go back to official Toyota pads and see whats what. There is heat coming from the tyres even after short journeys especially the rear passenger but its not pulling to either direction so I am inclined to agree the brakes are causing the noise but not the main low end power problem, I suspect David P has hit the nail on the head that it is over full from the last time someone did it probably during the rebuild and needs reducing and maybe even flushing. I'll hopefully be able to do the level this weekend and then we'll know. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David P Posted September 3, 2020 Share Posted September 3, 2020 Just a thought but whats the best ATF for my box? I'll get some in for when I'm draining this weekend as I would have thought if I drain too much it's better to put in new than used? I know its Dexron III but any particular make? Also mine says T-II on the dipstick I assume this means something else related to the Japanese market and I should ignore that? Why would you need to buy more ATF when your problem is having too much of it? If you read the information in the link that I gave you, we can put the spoon away for a while. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Annabella Posted September 3, 2020 Share Posted September 3, 2020 Why would you need to buy more ATF when your problem is having too much of it? If you read the information in the link that I gave you, we can put the spoon away for a while. https://media1.tenor.com/images/40a583df39c2d0d49f5675653351c0d6/tenor.gif?itemid=15238327 As he said if he drains too much, also he could do the 1.5-2l part change, which may help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ric Posted September 3, 2020 Share Posted September 3, 2020 Tbf this is going the same way as his other thread. Loads of input from people in the know and he ignores it all or doesn't try their advice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mellonman Posted September 3, 2020 Share Posted September 3, 2020 i will let you know why i know for a fact its not the CW brake pads , because you got them in ! if they was no good and causing you to think your loosing power they must be binding so bad they would have never even got in there. now the brake calipers are a different matter, get your car on a straight clear road or car park close to your house the better. you only need to move like 20 metres to know the out come, if you have had to travel more then 500 metres your brake disks might be hot , so park for 15 minutes to let them cool get out the car lick your finger and touch each of your brake disks , they should be cool as you have not gone far and let them cool. if they are still hot wait longer until warm or cool to touch, get in your car press the brake pedal then drive the 20 metres dont need to be fast 5-10mph would do it and try and not press the brake pedal again even to stop use your hand brake and putting in neutral. get back out the car and touch each brake disk they should not have got any hotter then before, if they are you need https://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?107717-Refurbing-J-Spec-Brakes Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wile e coyote Posted September 3, 2020 Share Posted September 3, 2020 Family sure sump only holds 2ltrs so drain that then run it to see what the level is If low add 500ml at a time till at correct level Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David P Posted September 3, 2020 Share Posted September 3, 2020 (edited) As he said if he drains too much, also he could do the 1.5-2l part change, which may help. As I said. There's nothing wrong with the fluid. There is waaay too much fluid in that. (At least 2 litres?) Nevertheless, the colour of the fluid indicates that the clutches are not slipping and the box is not overheating for any other reason. Trying to diagnose a fault like this from descriptions by un-mechanically minded folk, is a nightmare. Drop the fluid down to the correct level and if that doesn't magically fix it, take your Supra to someone in the Real World who knows their onions. P.S. How to read your dipstick here... https://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/group.php?discussionid=188&do=discuss (Please note that this link to a Group page will not work if you are browsing with a not-so Smartphone.) Family sure sump only holds 2ltrs so drain that then run it to see what the level is If low add 500ml at a time till at correct level Please don't do this! If reading an automatic transmission dipstick was part of the driving test, many folks on here would still be catching the bus. Drain the sump into a clean vessel and you will find that because it has waaay too much, around 4-litres or maybe more will come out? Beg borrow or steal a ladies stocking and then pour a measured 2-litres of it through the stocking back into the spout. Dipsticks are now informed how to survive without learning how to read a Supra transmission dipstick. Re-using perfectly good ATF is perfectly good common sense. This information and lots more is all available and clearly indexed in the Transmission Group at the mere click of a button. (Please be reminded again-again that Group pages do not function with Smartphones) All folks need to do; is turn off their not-so Smartphone and turn on their brain! Edited September 3, 2020 by David P (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike2JZ Posted September 3, 2020 Share Posted September 3, 2020 Don't forget that checking an autobox fluid level is unlike checking the oil level in your engine. There is a procedure that must be followed otherwise the reading dosent really mean anything. Process is outlined in repair manual. Whilst you are tampering with fluids, might as well pull the box and fit a V160. Only logical way around this problem Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David P Posted September 3, 2020 Share Posted September 3, 2020 (edited) Club Motto Edited September 3, 2020 by David P (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fulcrum2000 Posted September 4, 2020 Author Share Posted September 4, 2020 Yes that was my thinking, I thought it better to put new oil in than the old oil that came out and of which I dont know the provenance or is my thinking wrong there? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fulcrum2000 Posted September 4, 2020 Author Share Posted September 4, 2020 Tbf this is going the same way as his other thread. Loads of input from people in the know and he ignores it all or doesn't try their advice. Hi Ric Sorry you've lost me, I've done the heat testing and said one of the brakes is hotter, I've taken Davids advice and am preparing to drop the level of ATF slowly and carefully and have bought a bottle in case I accidentally remove too much - what have I done wrong other than try to fix my car and try to follow the advice of the people on here? I thought that was what a forum's main purpose was, so people with less knowledge like me could ask questions and try and solve problems which is exactly what I am trying to do here. If you were to go on a retro games forum I would be helping you get an old game going or whatever? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fulcrum2000 Posted September 4, 2020 Author Share Posted September 4, 2020 i will let you know why i know for a fact its not the CW brake pads , because you got them in ! if they was no good and causing you to think your loosing power they must be binding so bad they would have never even got in there. now the brake calipers are a different matter, get your car on a straight clear road or car park close to your house the better. you only need to move like 20 metres to know the out come, if you have had to travel more then 500 metres your brake disks might be hot , so park for 15 minutes to let them cool get out the car lick your finger and touch each of your brake disks , they should be cool as you have not gone far and let them cool. if they are still hot wait longer until warm or cool to touch, get in your car press the brake pedal then drive the 20 metres dont need to be fast 5-10mph would do it and try and not press the brake pedal again even to stop use your hand brake and putting in neutral. get back out the car and touch each brake disk they should not have got any hotter then before, if they are you need https://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?107717-Refurbing-J-Spec-Brakes I've done this and one is hotter than the other, i am only swapping the CW pads out now because they squeal Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fulcrum2000 Posted September 4, 2020 Author Share Posted September 4, 2020 Don't forget that checking an autobox fluid level is unlike checking the oil level in your engine. There is a procedure that must be followed otherwise the reading dosent really mean anything. Process is outlined in repair manual. Whilst you are tampering with fluids, might as well pull the box and fit a V160. Only logical way around this problem I would totally agree agree with you Mike but unfortunately I had a motorbike accident when I was 18 which left me with a 'Barry Sheen' rebuild required on my left leg so autos are the only choice for me unfortunately! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fulcrum2000 Posted September 4, 2020 Author Share Posted September 4, 2020 Thanks for all the kind words and some more frank ones! I take them all with good humour as intended. So to clarify, I thought initially the problem was brakes, its clearly not. I am only swapping back to Toyota ones as my CW ones squeal at low speed and also under heavy braking so as I have a new set of Toyota pads sat in my garage a bill for a couple of hours labour will hopefully allow me to rid myself of my Supra tinnitus and then I'll find a set of UK calipers when I can. For the gearbox it is also obviously as many people on here say overfull. So this weekend I will totally drain the sump and measure what comes out and then put exactly 2 litres back in the top wait 15 minutes and dip it to see if it is right for cold, then do some driving and going up and down the gears and dip it to see if it is right for hot and of course if the problem has gone. This is the basic consensus of the advice given and seems to make perfect sense but if I have got anything wrong please let me know. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Annabella Posted September 4, 2020 Share Posted September 4, 2020 You're ignoring the fact that one wheel, hub or disc is hotter than the other, how much hotter? If it is, it's the caliper not floating right and holding whatever pads you put in too tightly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fulcrum2000 Posted September 4, 2020 Author Share Posted September 4, 2020 You're ignoring the fact that one wheel, hub or disc is hotter than the other, how much hotter? If it is, it's the caliper not floating right and holding whatever pads you put in too tightly. Sorry perhaps I should have made that clearer too, when the Toyota Pads go back in the caliper on that corner is going to be checked and sorted too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mellonman Posted September 4, 2020 Share Posted September 4, 2020 (edited) I've done this and one is hotter than the other, i am only swapping the CW pads out now because they squeal Sorry i must have missed that , even doing the test as i stated ? anyway we have our selves a winner refurbish your seized brake caliper or replace with NEW , FYI that will be why your brake pads are making a noise not the brand . Edited September 4, 2020 by mellonman spell check checked wrong (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David P Posted September 4, 2020 Share Posted September 4, 2020 One of the first things I did was a full service including auto transmission change but that was three years ago. Then came the rebuild and in 3 and a half years its done less than 2000 miles I thought it better to put new oil in than the old oil that came out and of which I dont know the provenance If you gave the box a "full service less than 2,000 miles ago", how could you not know? I have never before come across a box that is not working properly because it had been overfilled, but whatever may be wrong with it, getting the ATF down to the correct level is the first thing to do. The fluid looks to be in far better condition than I find in most boxes that are working properly. Consequently, I wouldn't waste any money on new fluid or encourage someone else to, until later in this diagnostic guessing game. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fulcrum2000 Posted September 4, 2020 Author Share Posted September 4, 2020 If you gave the box a "full service less than 2,000 miles ago", how could you not know? I have never before come across a box that is not working properly because it had been overfilled, but whatever may be wrong with it, getting the ATF down to the correct level is the first thing to do. The fluid looks to be in far better condition than I find in most boxes that are working properly. Consequently, I wouldn't waste any money on new fluid or encourage someone else to, until later in this diagnostic guessing game. Fair enough David thanks. I had a service with lots of obvious problems with the car repaired early on but this was at a local garage and I dont know what oil was put in the AT, thats what I meant more than anything else, I just thought replacing it with top quality new stuff would be better if I dont mind paying but I take yur point if it aint broke why replace it. I should have time tomorrow to do this anyway and it may not fix it but fingers crossed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fulcrum2000 Posted September 4, 2020 Author Share Posted September 4, 2020 Sorry i must have missed that , even doing the test as i stated ? anyway we have our selves a winner refurbish your seized brake caliper or replace with NEW , FYI that will be why your brake pads are making a noise not the brand . i think I defo need new calipers and if this doesnt stop the squeal at least its cost me next to nothing as I have all the bits already. But yes I am on the hunt for new ones! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David P Posted September 5, 2020 Share Posted September 5, 2020 Fair enough David thanks. I had a service with lots of obvious problems with the car repaired early on but this was at a local garage and I dont know what oil was put in the AT, thats what I meant more than anything else, I just thought replacing it with top quality new stuff would be better if I dont mind paying but I take yur point if it aint broke why replace it. I should have time tomorrow to do this anyway and it may not fix it but fingers crossed In the likely event there is no improvement, before you start chasing wild geese, it would be prudent to next try an alternative ECU? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fulcrum2000 Posted September 5, 2020 Author Share Posted September 5, 2020 Other than the gear slipping would there be any obvious signs of this being the case? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mellonman Posted September 5, 2020 Share Posted September 5, 2020 The ecu makes the box do all sorts of odd things Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.