Value?? Project!! High spec NA-T

[mharvey]

Hi all,

 

Hope this is allowed but I'm looking for an idea on the value of my car

 

The car is an NA Supra that has had a series of upgrades including gearbox, diff, fueling, ignition and intake. The parts used, as you will see, are high quality and support the power that it made.

It recently made circa 700bhp after being mapped by SRD.

 

 

Unfortunately the other week I was driving it when there was a knocking noise I quickly pulled over, identified the noise as one from the bottom end and turned the car off.

 

I've considered fixing it, pulling the engine, salvaging what I can from the block/head and building new but I can't do so financially right now nor will I be able to for some time.

 

As a result, it's a project. I know that I'm going to lose an absolute fortune compared to what I've spent etc and I know I would make more breaking it but I don't have the space.

 

I'm just hoping that someone can see it for what it is. A high spec car that will *only* need an engine (I appreciate that's a major component and am under no illusion how much that will cost).

 

 

So the spec is as follows;

 

1994 Toyota Supra

NA Manual

Red in colour

Circa 75k miles on the clock (odo still reads in km)

 

EXTERIOR

 

Full respray in OEM colour

BC racing Coilovers

Carbon fibre bootlid

Rear facelift lights

Repainted front lights

HKS kansai splitter

Exclusive Silver XXR 521’s imported.

F - 18x8.5in with 235/40/18 Federal 595 RS-R (Good tread)

R - 18x10in with 265/35/18 Federal 595 RS-R (Brand new)

 

 

INTERIOR

 

OEM Leather interior

Nexus 7 in car tablet install (looks very OEM)

Black dyed carpets

BTi gauge (displays all parameters including boost, oil etc and is very subtle)

Metal Monkey TRD style gauges

Superklasse OEM style weighted leather gear knob

 

 

ENGINE (BROKEN)

 

86.5mm Manley forged pistons

Manley H beam forged rods

ARP studs (mains and rods)

ACL race bearings (Mains and rods)

Tomei Head gasket

ARP Head studs

GTE oil pump, water pump

OEM crank pulley

OEM gasket/seal kit

All relevant seals and bearings replaced.

 

Refreshed/Stage 1 Cylinder head

 

GTE cam covers (new baffles, powder coated and an10 fittings)

 

 

ECU and Fuel

 

Link G4+ supralink ecu

Link map sensor

AEM Digital wideband UEGO Kit

 

Injector Dynamics ID850cc

Radium Engineering fuel rail

Walbro 450lph fuel pump

Braided fuel lines (AN10 feed and AN6 return)

Aeromotive fuel pressure regulator

TB Dev Fuel tank riser

 

 

TURBO and EXHAUST

 

Borg Warner S366 sxe turbocharger (mapped on this and circa 200 miles)

Walton Motorsport T4 manifold fitted with titanium hardware)

Turbosmart Pro-Gate 50 wastegate

 

Screamer pipe

Custom 3" downpipe

3" Garage Whifbitz second decat

3" Toyosports cat back exhuast

 

 

INTAKE

 

First State Motorsport inlet manifold

Ross Machine Racing throttle body

Toyota ST205 throttle cable

4" intake and K&N filter

SRD 4" Front mount Intercooler

Custom SRD intercooler pipework

 

 

IGNITION

 

First State Motorsport 'FU_Dizzy' ignition kit;

Full distributor delete utilising hall sensor for cam pick up.

FSM wiring kit with OEM Toyota 1zz coil kit

PHR exhaust cam pulley to suit the aforementioned kit.

PHR matching intake cam

 

 

DRIVETRAIN

 

R154 Manual gearbox - (Garage D rebuilt circa 1,000 miles ago)

New OEM flywheel

Spec Stage 3+ R154 clutch kit

New OEM master and slave cylinder

Braided clutch lines

A02 differential (better ratios)

TRD lsd fitted to aforementioned diff casing (Garage D circa 1,000 miles ago)

 

 

BRAKES

 

LS400 calipers - Bigg Red refurbed

CW Fast Road pads all round (almost new)

Pagid disks all round (almost new)

 

 

OTHER

 

PHR Power Steering relocation kit

Battery relocation to boot (inc aluminium bracket and Odyssey dry cell battery)

Custom header tank

Master cylinder stopper

Mishimoto Radiator

 

 

BAD BITS

 

Obviously the engine, as mentioned, it's got a bottom end knock. It hasn't been ran since and hasn't been stripped.

There are some fairly deep scratches to the front bumper so that needs painting.

Front headlights need a good cut and polish.

Splitter needs painting ideally.

 

 

 

 

 

[Supra-love]

Who built it?

 

(Edit) - I think I know who.

 

I’d be looking at taking them to court.

Obviously I know you say your struggling cash wise (surely the community will help?) (Maybe make a go fund me and share to the community’s) but id definitely try get it opened to find out exactly why it happened then file claims and proceedings towards the party at fault.

 

I would definitely be naming and shaming mate

 

I’d be fucking screwing and going to town mate.

Edited August 15, 2020 by Supra-love (see edit history)

[j_jza80]

Fit a good, used NA bottom end, thicker head gasket turn the boost down, either enjoy the car as is or sell

[rider]

As a NA convert with engine issues its not going to be worth a lot. I'm surprised the gearbox held up. I'd guess at the parts value begin around 5k more than the all together car with its broken engine. Rolling shells are fetching big money these days, as are lights, and dash panels - hot cakes, and climate controls, and digital clocks. Bumpers are silly money. Tailgates, you hardly see them offered these days. Any glass - its all discontinued on pre-facelift models. The money is going to be best in the parts.

[Swampy442]

The bottom end knock, you could just need some bottom end shells, could need a new rod and a crank regrind, you'll never know until you look sadly. But the biggest thing is working out WHY it started knocking.

 

If you can afford to keep it, park it up, if you can turn a spanner, pull the engine out and get it evaluated. The best thing with these cars is they're never going lose money so even with a damaged engine, it wont get any cheaper.

 

Best option for you but least financially beneficial - Sell as is.

Best option to get money back, but the biggest pain in the arse (trust me, Ive done a few) - Breaking for parts

 

Forget what you've put into it cash wise, you'll never see that again

[Noz]

i'm surprised the gearbox held up.

 

R154 see 700hp all day long? People have 1000hp in them. They don't drag race with them. Thats a bit of an unfair comment on someone's advert given the historic proven strength of these transmissions.

 

I've an R154 and anyone wanting to own a car with 700hp shouldn't be afraid of transmission being an issue. I've seen countless high power builds using them. Nothings invincible but judging a box because its an R154 is inaccurate.

 

Just my two pence.

 

Its hassle but the general opinion will always be swap the bottom end. Even if you run it at less power for sale.

 

GLWS, this is a lovely car.

Edited August 16, 2020 by Noz (see edit history)

[Pudsey]

Whack it on eBay with a starting price of 10k.

 

See what happens, you can always add a reserve.

 

You got nothing to loose.

[TheTurtleshead]

Pricing it is simple.

 

1-Get a quote to rectify the issue. I.e. an engine rebuild

2-Work out what you'd want to advertise it for if it were in 100% running order

3- Take 1 away from 2 and you have your sale price if you sold

it as is.

 

You'll most likely make more breaking it.... but that would be both a waste of a good car and a bit heartbreaking!

[Shane34]

Sent a private message, not sure if you have seen it but I could be interested in a project.

 

Any updates with where you are with this?