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The mkiv Supra Owners Club

NA ITB Build - I've gone rogue


Eightdip

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Thank you, I appreciate it. What is the spacing from the intake side of the head to the edge of the brake booster? Do you remember what the length of the first setup was? What is the current setups overall length? I'm probably going to measure the amount of space I have and send it to efi so I can get their feedback on which itbs they have that will fit without modification.

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12 hours ago, HighnessV2 said:

Thank you, I appreciate it. What is the spacing from the intake side of the head to the edge of the brake booster? Do you remember what the length of the first setup was? What is the current setups overall length? I'm probably going to measure the amount of space I have and send it to efi so I can get their feedback on which itbs they have that will fit without modification.

So I originally ordered the more expensive version on their website and it turned up way too long so I had to change for the shorter and cheaper E-series kit which they reckoned would still have been too long so I had to get shorter trumpets. I believe we needed the total length of everything to be under 190mm (the gap between the head and the brake lines/bulkhead), so the kit that was made totalled 175mm so we had a bit of room for filter socks

image0.thumb.jpeg.12b0f8441cafae0639876377273e6cf9.jpeg

 

20200911_120755.jpg.f406debbc381d071dd61399bbf85aa19.jpg

 

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One option for me to solve the current issue is add in a crank sensor and therefore bypass the dizzy timing, that would mean getting a 2JZGE VVTI oil pump, crank pulley and sensor, and also £££ on labour.

Trying to work around it but it could be a good way to good to future proof the build, anyone know how difficult it is to replace the oil pump? Does it have to be an engine out job or can it be done in situe by removing subframes and jacking engine up etc?

Also, anyone ordered from JDM garage before? Looks like they have everything i'd need for the conversion but not used them myself

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10 hours ago, Mike2JZ said:

What exactly is the issue? 

I've not driven it myself yet, but reportedly a hesitation/stutter around 2-3K in the rev range. Seems to be consistant whether it's part or full throttle. We believe the combination of coilpack conversion and 272 cams whilst being timed from the dizzy is causing a communication issue with the Link ECU. 

Hope that made sense as I'm forwarding information on and I'm not the most mechanically minded!

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3 hours ago, Mike2JZ said:

Sounds strange, shouldn’t really have any issues with dizzy triggering coils, have done it loads of times before. send me some logs and tune if you want a second opinion.

Ah Mike that would be amazing if you didn't mind? Will DM you when I get the details hopefully next week

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3 hours ago, Mike2JZ said:

Sounds strange, shouldn’t really have any issues with dizzy triggering coils, have done it loads of times before. send me some logs and tune if you want a second opinion.

This forum really needs a love emoji.

Youre a key team player Mike. Thanks for being here mate.

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9 hours ago, lowrider- said:

Great updates on this build!

What header and exhaust are you running?

Keep up the good work!

Cheers bud!! It's a custom Longlife exhaust built by Top Gear Exhausts in Stockport, and I believe the exhaust manifold is Autobahn88 👍

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  • 2 weeks later...

UPDATE! I had my first drive of the car today, and let me tell you, it sounds glorious! 

Hesitation issue is still prevalent, it's apparent in the video at 3:35ish. It seems to happen regardless of whether the car is under load or not, and mostly seems to be localised to 2nd and 3rd gear around 3k RPM (at a guess, not got the rev counter wired in properly yet so I can't tell for sure).

That issue aside, it was bloody great to drive it again after around 18 months of it being off the road!!
 

 

Edited by Eightdip (see edit history)
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On 8/14/2021 at 8:43 AM, Mike2JZ said:

Sounds strange, shouldn’t really have any issues with dizzy triggering coils, have done it loads of times before. send me some logs and tune if you want a second opinion.

Also, I've not forgotten your offer Mike! Having a hard time getting my mapper, mechanic and the car all in the same place at the same time to get a proper diagnosis and therefore some data to show you, will keep you posted

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Sounds good with ITB's WOT, liking the dramatic noise. always wanted a set for mine. Defintately something a bit different. 

If you have access to a laptop, then I can guide you on how to take a log from the ECU. Its very easy. Just drop me a private message so I dont litter your thread with instructions lol

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1 hour ago, Mike2JZ said:

Sounds good with ITB's WOT, liking the dramatic noise. always wanted a set for mine. Defintately something a bit different. 

If you have access to a laptop, then I can guide you on how to take a log from the ECU. Its very easy. Just drop me a private message so I dont litter your thread with instructions lol

Cheers mate! Hopefully this thread will go a long way to answering questions people have on throttle bodies for Supras, and fingers crossed we're at the last piece of the puzzle

Will PM you for instructions!

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Right can we please all go and give @Mike2JZ some love, it looks as if he has solved the issue! It was a default gear shift control on the base map that was causing the stuttering

So just in case other people run into the same problem, the base map on some older Link G4+ software have a default gear shift control set which needs to be turned off. Liam turned it off and voila! It now seems to be running smoothly! 

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Just watched the latest video. Great sounding machine!

Reminds me of mine although you can clearly hear those lovely individual throttle bodies up top.

I saw you mentioning a lightweight flywheel in that video. I would definitely recommend to go for it.

I have one on mine as well and it made the throttle response even better. Take care to not go with one which is too light. I went with one made by JUN in Japan. It works flawless - still perfectly driveable and no silly downsides like chatter etc.

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20 hours ago, Herb said:

Just watched the latest video. Great sounding machine!

Reminds me of mine although you can clearly hear those lovely individual throttle bodies up top.

I saw you mentioning a lightweight flywheel in that video. I would definitely recommend to go for it.

I have one on mine as well and it made the throttle response even better. Take care to not go with one which is too light. I went with one made by JUN in Japan. It works flawless - still perfectly driveable and no silly downsides like chatter etc.

Cheers Herb! Yeah that's definitely something I'll be doing in the future, just want to drive it for a while first haha! Nice one for the info!

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In the spirit of nothing ever being simple, it looks like I'm going to have to revert back to the standard manifold as the Autobahn88 one seems to like constantly cracking on me. It's been welded up a couple of times and keeps giving us new surprises. Bit of a shame but at this point I just want it on the road so we're going back to the standard manifold and decatted downpipe section. 

Think in the future I'm just going to have to get a manifold made up at vast expense, as I hear there are all sorts of issues with US sold NA manifolds clearing RHD steering columns. Can't seem to find any RHD spec ones for sale

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19 hours ago, Eightdip said:

In the spirit of nothing ever being simple, it looks like I'm going to have to revert back to the standard manifold as the Autobahn88 one seems to like constantly cracking on me. It's been welded up a couple of times and keeps giving us new surprises. Bit of a shame but at this point I just want it on the road so we're going back to the standard manifold and decatted downpipe section. 

Think in the future I'm just going to have to get a manifold made up at vast expense, as I hear there are all sorts of issues with US sold NA manifolds clearing RHD steering columns. Can't seem to find any RHD spec ones for sale

The one I‘ve been using gave me zero issues over almost 10 years now. It is the manifold sold by MVP Motorsports and manufactured by the same guys that did the infamous Xerd header back in the good old days. I got mine covered with proper heat shielding recently (and therefore off the car and inspected) and it had zero cracks etc after many years of use (track time included).

The only thing you will have to take care of is the clearance with the RHD steering column but it can be done as seen on my personal car.

Here‘s a pic of it with the heat shielding already installed:

3D129A64-11A4-492A-8CAD-B2192D065796.jpeg

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4 hours ago, Herb said:

The one I‘ve been using gave me zero issues over almost 10 years now. It is the manifold sold by MVP Motorsports and manufactured by the same guys that did the infamous Xerd header back in the good old days. I got mine covered with proper heat shielding recently (and therefore off the car and inspected) and it had zero cracks etc after many years of use (track time included).

The only thing you will have to take care of is the clearance with the RHD steering column but it can be done as seen on my personal car.

Here‘s a pic of it with the heat shielding already installed:

3D129A64-11A4-492A-8CAD-B2192D065796.jpeg

Thanks Herb that's great to know, did you just hammer it for the clearance? I've had a look online and it's hard to find an MVP one for sale. There's a company called WOTM racing selling them, but it's $360, and once you combine shipping from the US, taxes, then having to make it fit, we're not a million miles off getting one custom made. A local company offered to do it for around £800/£900

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Yes ist was slightly rerouted in that area where it might interfere with the steering column. Nothing major its just about 1cm of clearance or so.

Can‘t you still get that manifold through MVP Motorsports in Texas/US? I‘m not sure as I bought mine many years ago.

However, I do get your point regarding costs involved. Importing parts from the US is not cheap these days.... heck is it even not cheap to get parts from the UK to EU anymore unfortunately. So if there is a way to get a manifold custom made at a reasonable price point I would go for it if I were you.  Would definitely recommend to try and avoid the stock (exhaust) manifold as it is a bottleneck with NA 2JZs.

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Just another info based on my experience - no matter with which aftermarket manifold you will go.

Make sure that the outlet of the manifold (where it is mated to the 3“ midpipe) is also 3“. My manifold was 2,5“ in the past and I had this fixed this year and enlarged to 3“. At the same time I got a Vband installed in that area.

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9B00D57A-14DC-4FF0-A9C4-D8158284865E.jpeg

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