NA-T Re-finishing thread, final bits, running project but needs some re-working

[7677243]

Hi, I hope this is the right place for a thread like this, I will have the engine out in the next day and will be giving it a good eye over and finishing off some areas where PO has left me a little bit to do. Mostly reducing heat, some piping and wiring, sorting sensors and attending to some leaks, seeps or weeps..

 

Some background (all irrelevant to my queries, skip-able):

I picked up this car back in '15, it was a mostly complete project with some PO bodges thrown in likely to finish it off quickly. I got the car safe by renewing the entire undercarriage, then my insurer gave me unlimited breakdown cover to justify the increase on my premiums so I took the car on a 6000km euro round trip. Not too eventful but certainly some things which I need to address, obviously it could have run better as some of the issues left unaddressed will show but it was a good time and a nice experience with this car. I was expecting to end up on a tow truck but the insurers had the last laugh Anyway now I have some time I can dedicate to this project I plan to get the power plant reliable in both state and my mind so I can take it out for my next work stint deep in Europe for about 4 months.

 

Car: J-spec GE / NA-T 3.2L stroker kit / A340e

 

1) Power steering cooler; I will cover about 1,000km a day a handful of times per year, is a PS steering cooler for me? All the other miles are made up of 30 km trips on roads where it doesn't get too fancy.

 

2) Sensors, one located near the front bumper and the other near the old factory airbox location, both are currently just zip tied to open air, what's the new correct placement for these in my NA-T setup?

 

3) I am unsure why PO has installed a crank position sensor, my understanding is the same signal can be gained from the distributor? The engine is currently controlled by a DTA S40 and the Autobox by the factory ECU though I now have an AEM v2 on the shelf to install, hopefully I can get it controlling everything including the autobox correctly. Will the AEM v2 use a different signal pickup allowing me to remove this sensor? I would like to get the A/C re-fitted and this is in the way.

 

4) I only saw this today, it was wrapped in tape and looks sinful, enlighten me please, the plug is near the rear of the fusebox

 

5) While I have the engine on the stand, what are the "do this now and save yourself a headache later" jobs that every car seems to have unique to itself, if any?

 

Cheers all!

Thanks a bunch all, I don't post often but i'm often a lurker, I wish there was a gift beer function for every time a post has helped me!

 

[Dan8]

Nice car buddy have You got any more pics mate and of engine bay

2 looks like intake air temp sensor and 4 looks like Ignitor box plug rigged for your management functions as using crank sensor as well somebody will be able to enlighten you there’s a lots of well knowledgeable members over here will enlighten you more

Is it using coil packs now

[Scooter]

I don't think I've ever seen that crank sensor setup, someone has notched the outer ring of the crank pulley!? I'm not technical enough to know where you could replicate the signal from (but agree on a NA it has no crank sensor and uses the distributor), if it made it round the trip then that's something but it's odd to say the least. If your crank pulley went you'd have to get the new one notched the same!?

[Scooter]

The pointy sensor by the airbox is a air temperature sensor and is normally inside the stock airbox, so it wouldn't read anything different on startup but may do later once the engine bays warm/hot......I'll try and find what people generally do with it I don't think it's very crucial (but bare with me)

[Noz]

You dont have to use the crank sensor. You can remove it. But you'll need the AEM installed of course.

 

The TT has a crank and cam sensor which is maybe why its replicated it. Maybe theyve used a TT configuration on the DTA. But you can just use the dizzy output.

 

Regarding a PS cooler. The type of driving should dictate if its needed. Not the miles. As it doesnt get hotter over time. It gets hotterif inefficient or over used. I'd say it's not needed.

[Style]

Yeah that is a very strange crank sensor setup, never seen that before! Be interesting to know if the crank pulley is still balanced with it being notched. You'd be best going back to the distributor for signal I'd say as the AEM isn't a fan of those crank sensors.

 

I agree the first one is likely an air intake sensor. I've got an aftermarket one that looks very similar but has a thread on it. So it's now wound into the intake pipework just before the throttle body. The second sensor looks like a similar one I've got taped out the way in the bay as well. I think it might have been an earth or something but have never been sure.

 

Dan looks right again on the igniter plug with what I think from memory is the tach signal on pin 4 (second from top) and possibly the signal wire from the ECU (pin 2) both looping into the signal wire that runs to the coil (pin 5). Must be to do with the ghetto rig of the crank sensor. I can't remember if it's on the igniter itself or the plug but if you look at the top of the plug, it might have lettering on each of the pins like "IGF", "IGT", "B-0", "EXT" and "C-" or something like that. That'll maybe help identify each wire.

 

Engine-wise a good service of the filters, fluids, plugs and gaskets if you've got any components off is a good move. I found the ignition system needed to be tip top when you throw boost at it but maybe others have had better success than me. But that's easy changed if need be down the line.

 

Good luck matey, seems like you've got a nice base to get you going!

[Dan8]

Be interesting to see and know the full setup of you get anymore pics and think the sensor wires into the box in second picture was something to do with the AC temp or my active spoiler setup I can’t remember which but I just removed both and remembered seeing this mate

Maybe a upgraded auto box cooler instead if your box has been uprated to

do you have the full spec history of the car from when it had its stroker conversion

Edited June 4, 2020 by Dan8 (see edit history)

[7677243]

Thanks for all the responses!

 

1) Sorted - No need for PS cooler at this time

2) Sorted - Airbox temp sensor / Outer air temp sensor (or sorts), ill rig them up more appropriately, thanks.

3) Sorted - Crank position sensor, this was likely work of an enthusiastic kid and co. in Japan (PO), I am glad the AEM will allow me to remove this and sure things up further.

 

4) Ghetto wiring on igniter plug - Once I have the AEM installed, am I just looking to plug a stock ge igniter in place?

 

New questions:

1) I am in the market for an intact ECU-Engine wiring harness, are there any differences between Jspec GE and UK spec GE looms? With how the PO spliced the DTA ecu in I don't want to add more complications.

 

2) Am I fine installing an oil cooler and transmission cooler infront of the AC condenser (the largest I can fit size by side on the same level) or is it too many layers of rads for air to pass through and stay effective? Intercooler, GB/Oil, Condenser, Radiator.

I plan to steady up the air flow in that area anyway to make sure no air in that area is escaping from passing through the rads.

 

3) Cam/Crank seals, as far as jobs go I feel I may aswell get this done if not for peace of mind, i'm not opening up a can of worms am I? I have no leaks currently but age is uncertain to me.

 

Some questions asked:

Currently not on coil packs, i've focused mainly on building a solid platform so far and they have not been a priority, i'll get to the fine tuning in short order i'm sure.

 

The A340e has had shims installed and uprated springs, more recently I had a shop in Germany swap out the clutch pack and sure up the box because of some light leaks. I will be adding a bigger cooler for the transmission on this run of jobs. I'm not a great fan of the thud when I shift into gear but that should ease up some when I have the idle more under control with things setup better.

 

Rambles:

I've really enjoyed working on this car over the years, got a fair bit done looking back and managed to keep it on the road most of the time.

 

I know I went a little overboard with some parts of this car but nothing better than tinkering in a garage.

 

My most satifying job was probably refreshing the rear end, I seam welded and powdercoated the subframe for longevity and just because.. madness probably

Upper driftworks arms are removed, they were a mistake. Now replaced with new stocks (damn you un-replacable balljoint!), I have some Japspeed arms on the front, they're leagues apart from the driftworks bits.

 

Thanks again for all your help!

[Noz]

Oil cooler in front of aircon will be fine.

 

Ignitor outputs will be needed if you go back to stock ignition or used for other wires for coils. Dont cut it off. Just put it to one side.

[Style]

Yeah, you should be fine to just rip the red wires out and plug an igniter in provided the harness is still untouched on the plug side. I wonder how it was operating before if the igniter was essentially bypassed. No coil packs so it was still on the dizzy, can you see an aftermarket igniter anywhere?

 

1) There isn't a UK spec GE unfortunately, all UK's are turbos so I'm 99% sure engine harnesses will be different.

2) Agreed with Noz, I'm running an oil cooler on one side and the air con condensor on the other as the first layer, intercooler second and finally the rad. All has been fine so far. I think some people mount auto coolers underneath the car but I'm not 100% sure. Just an idea maybe in case you're struggling for space.

3) Cam and crank seals aren't too difficult if the engine is out. Cam seals are easy enough if the engine is in the bay as well. It's one of those catch 22's really. If it's fine, just leave it but sods law it'll start to leak as soon as you get it all back together. But both jobs aren't too bad at all.

 

Underside looks like a neat job, well done

[Noz]

Maybe trace the coil back. Rather than search for an aftermarket ignitor. It's only managing the fire sequence after all like a relay/counter.

 

Its uncertain what the ecu is doing that the ignitor has to do with the new setup. Ignitor isnt really needed if its able to fire directly into the coil perhaps.

[7677243]

Ignition is running to a stock coil, wiring is untouched on the igniter plug and no after market igniter found.

 

Also a better picture of the CPS as it sparked curiosity.

 

Thanks for all your help guys, I should be all set for a nice easy refresh.

[7677243]

A few more questions and an update:

 

As I never stated, in time my goal for this car is a responsive and reliable ~700hp daily driver.

 

Coilpacks: During tear down I noticed all ignition system service parts are worn, figured I may as well swap out to coil packs at this stage with the new ECU. As there are a lot of posts going into this I am almost shy to ask but.. Which coil packs fit under the GE intake manifold?

 

Autobox cooler: Does anyone have one installed under their car or possibly in front of the rear wheels? I'd appreciate any photos, it's been rattling around my head for a couple of days now ever since Style mentioned something.

 

Exhaust Manifold: Does anyone recognize this brand exhaust manifold and wastegate? I'm unsure on quality and hoping it doesn't match my Chinabay turbo; which I fully expected to be knackered by now considering the abuse i've given it over thousands of miles with no BOV, I was constantly drunk on chopping air.

 

Oil in galley behind intake manifold gasket (in between 1st and 2nd IM runner: This left me scratching my head? Any fault or function going on here?

 

Update: Engine tear down is almost complete, had to go all the way because it was in more need than I anticipated, I should start checking bearing clearances this week and building back up. I will be doing a full gasket and seal change for good measure and because some were leaky. Seeing the condition of most of the seals I can only assume the valve stem seals are unchanged too, i'm looking forward to that job! Still got the engine wiring loom to fix which will take a whole evening, not looking forward to that job!

 

Thanks for all your help guys, if anyone has parts they're looking to sell useful to my project PM me anytime. I will have a wish list up in the Wanted section in the next few days. Cheers.

[Style]

That's what we're here for matey. Any questions you've got, just fire them on to here and hopefully someone can help you along the way

 

The coil pack setup from the VVTi 2JZ-GE fits under the stock intake but you'll need the igniter that comes with that setup as well. The best kit I can see right now is the R35 GTR kit that Whifbitz offer (I would've gone with that kit but of course it was released about a week after I went with the 2J VVTi setup!)

 

http://www.garagewhifbitz.co.uk/garage-whifbitz-r35-gtr-2jz-ge-coilpack-conversion.html

 

Hard to tell for sure, but the manifold looks like an early XSPower one. The 4 bolt wastegate flange is fairly unique to those or any other similar brands. Not to say people haven't had success with them though. I think Noz has ran his for years and is up to 600hp now.

 

I could be wrong but I think that's a product of the stock crankcase ventiliation setup. It recirculates the oil vapour back into the intake but most people eventually ditch it for a catch can setup these days. So I'd say perfectly normal for an ole 2J these days.

[Dan8]

Enjoying the thread mate keep updating looks tidy underneath

Agree with Style that’s definitely looking like XS power manifold first versions with there HKS style 4 bolt wastegate but there brand new tubular Thick wall manifold they just released looks good now however they are all still 4bolt wastegate flanges unlike all the more expensive branded ones which run the more popular Vband giving you more wastegate options. Can always adapt it though.

What compression ratio you running since it was strokered

I will be purchasing the Whifbitz smart coils conversion to it’s not to badly priced considering it comes with everything for a straight Swap and NA-T converted cars always breath a bit heavy once turboed that’s why it’s recommended to use a oil breather catch can setup or your PCV valve is faulty causing oil buildup inside inlet

[Noz]

A 700hp stroker NAt being reliable does raise some eyebrows lol I mean hopefully itll be okay but stuff goes wrong sometimes.

 

I'd ditch the 4bolt and get a vband welded onto it.

 

Doesnt look like my XSmanifold the wastegate outlet looks a bit weird. But guys mention it could be an early one so maybe so. Most low cost tubular look the same so it's hard to know.

 

I'd just vband the wastegate and brace it.

 

I ditched the 4 bolt WG at 400hp and went with a 60mm Turbosmart. But I had over 400hp for years without issues. But always felt it was a cheap part.

 

You can cut corner with some things. A wastegate isnt one I'd do again.

[7677243]

A quick update:

 

I ended up doing a full teardown because it was messy and I wanted to know all bearing clearances since this car is mine for keeps. Engine health is surprisingly good, must have had some work done not too long ago and was just put together poorly, too much sealant was used and plenty of over tightened bolts, leaked like a sieve.

It was also running a GE head gasket with GE pistons and rods.

 

I would be putting it back together at this stage but I popped down to the Toyoyo dealer to pick up some space glue (FIPG black) and was informed that they no longer import it because it is "too expensive", they gave me Wurth 250 instead, which I decided I wasn't going to use before I got home.

Who stocks FIPG black in Europe? I checked all the usual UK Supra suspects and none seemed to offer it. If it is an issue I will buy a box from the US and get a local kid to put them on eBay for a 20% markup so he can buy crack and we can seal our pans.

 

I am struggling to ID my crank, any gurus? Front marking: 111112, Rear marking: 2333342.

 

 

 

A couple of pics of what too much sealant look like, I was lucky here, I found a tiny blob of silicon under a cam cap in the cam bearing oil feed hole. Somehow it didn't oil starve or cause damage, very lucky!

 

Meet my only garage helper, Isaac.

 

Cheers Style, I will pick up the Whifbitz R35 coil pack kit. You're always so helpful.

Noz and Dan, also thanks for the input, I will fix the oil breathing system and the WG mounting / bracing.

 

Thank you all so much, this project would have taken so much longer without the clarity provided here! Brilliant crew!

 

I'll see if I can knock out a couple of How-to threads when interesting jobs come up that I think may be helpful to someone. Maybe a little tutorial on wiring cooling fans into the fusebox or something.

 

Best wishes!

[7677243]

I have just about finished a factory reset on my engine loom.

I am installing an AEM v2, assuming the car was stock, any extra wires I should be passing before I close up the loom?

 

1) For the map sensor I will use the old factory map wiring.

2) For IAT I will use the wiring from the old probe on the stock airbox.

3) For coilpacks, I will pass 6 wires from coilpack location to ECU for pins 52-57 on AEM

 

I can't think of anything else but brain fog describes my situation well after looking at wiring for hours.

 

Cheers all!

 

Factory inline crimps, very nice, I must equip my garage with these and the proper tool, I drooled when I saw these.

 

Birds nest, removing all joints and unpicking the DTA piggyback.