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The mkiv Supra Owners Club

Chas's NA-t Build


Chasz86

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So work on the head begins,so I have removed the cams and will be removing the valve keeper later this week, it is at this point that I've noticed washer falling out of the holes pictured i count 14 holes but only 12 washers, foes anybody have a name for these parts, purpose and any idęa what to do about missing ones. Am I correct I thinking they came from these holes, they fell out whilst flipping the head and cleaning with jet washer.

 

So this week I plan to lap the valves, and replace valve stem seals. Then the head will get a good clean and a skim, i have heard to skim first then lap, do people agree?imageimageimage

 

 

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Those are your head bolt Washers as as far as I am aware there should be a washer to every bolt. Id strongly suggest putting the ARP head bolt kit in whilst you have it all apart meaning if you do want to run more boost its all done ready. You don't need the expensive 625 ones just the regular kit :) Following with interest as we are doing 2 of these over the winter.

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Now buddy it’s looking gud and taking shape now isn’t she

You get higher tensile rated washers with the ARP kit anyways and don’t use them ones anymore your all gud there

The ARP head studs require a really long reach 12 point socket that isn’t to thick to fit in between bolt housing in the head

Edited by Dan8 (see edit history)
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Now buddy it’s looking gud and taking shape now isn’t she

You get higher tensile rated washers with the ARP kit anyways and don’t use them ones anymore your all gud there

The ARP head studs require a really long reach 12 point socket that isn’t to thick to fit in between bolt housing in the head

 

Yep you won't have got the 625+ ones as they are over twice the price and only really required for big single projects. Make sure you use the assembly lube that comes with them. The point about the 12 point socket is a good one and its a pain in the arse to find the correct one. If its incorrect you can damage the nuts so be really careful.

 

I think its the torq thin wall ones that are ok, when I find mine Ill take a picture of it for you :)

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So I got the valves out the head today, the process was very back shed, I used a large magnet to remove the shims and laid them down in order. I ended up using a makeshift tool to remove the valve keeper, I basic used a socket on an extension bar, placed the large magnet on the side of the socket. With the head on the floor, make sure to put a blanket / sheet down to protect the mating surface. I then compressed the spring, pumped it a little gave it a wiggle then release and the retainers are free. Use the big magnet to collect the two little inserts, the retainer and spring. Placed all these parts inside the inverted shims.

 

Now the head is stripped it will have a good clean and be sent to machine shop to be skimmed. imageimageimage

 

 

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The piston have all been cleaned up. Should any of bearings be changed while they are out? I started to look into it and I think there are few types that have different tolerances down to the 0.01mm. Started hurting my brain so quit looking imageimageimageimage

 

 

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Looking gud mate and like your trick for valve retainers gud idea

You will have fun lapping all them valves in them pistons have come up nice and the Toyota bearings come I. 5 different standard sized bearings and aftermarket one size fits all need to get a Mic Vernier and plastigauge or just match them like for like with Toyota ones if cranks ok and in spec it battered my head to buddy

Nice thread

Edited by Dan8 (see edit history)
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I have just seen what a state that tapatalk posts the pic and text. I will attempt to continue this thread on PC, I was hoping i could go back and edit posts but i cant find the option.

 

I thought I would mention as a warning, followed with a question. I found that when jet washing the head, after removal of the valve springs. I found that a thin washer/shim came flying out from, where I guess was sitting under the valve spring. it is quite hard to see which one was missing i had a guess and popped it back in. although thinking now that I should remove each and ensure that each spring bay has one. I think a magnet on a stick should work for removal. What do you think the purpose of these are? I have several thoughts, either a harder metal to protect the ally or a shim to adjust the quiescent spring pressure.

 

work started on cleaning up the valves, I popped them in a drill and used scotch bright to remove carbon. I think I will polish them right up using 800-100-1200 grit wet & dry. that's next week though and I will wait til then for some nice before and after pics.

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The machine shop wanted £7 per valve plus tax. I may get a drill bit sucker give it a quick blitz then finish by hand.

 

/QUOTE]

 

Thats not bad, CNC heads did mine way back when in Stockport, Was £250 inc VAT for valves and guides and skimmed ready to be put back on :)

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Yeah the total for valves and skim was pushing £350. They were just a local engine refurbishment, so doubted they were providing any performance expertise also wasn't willing to pay that price for some thing i could do my self. I will get them to skim but that's it.

 

 

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