jongilly Posted May 21, 2020 Share Posted May 21, 2020 Hi all, Am i missing something, brakes where working correctly before i sent calipers off for a refurb. Car is supra turbo without trac The master cylinder drained itself. All calipers have been refitted. Banjos and nipples all tight I have tried to bleed the master cylinder, but cant get any fluid from it, by using the method in the workshop manual. That is, remove the 2 pipes off master cylinder, slowly press brake pedal and then cover the 2 holes in master cylinder with fingers and release pedal, repeat 5 times, not getting any fluid out. I have used a vacuum pump on each calipers to draw fluid down down the lines, but getting bubbles all the time with the fluid. Have pulled approx 200ml on each line, still the same. Brake pedal is non existent, ie no pressure. Using the old method of using a friend on pedal to pump then hold down, then crack the nipple, im getting nothing out. Im thinking have the seals inverted in the master cylinder so need to rebuild the cylinder... or am i missing something else Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jza800 Posted May 21, 2020 Share Posted May 21, 2020 The master cylinder can not run dry, it will destroy the seals on the pistons inside the cylinder and when you now have tried to bleed the calipers without you have bleed the master first, you can have destroyed the seals .. so i would tried at the first to bleed the master cylinder first before to take the rest. if it is possile you are safe if not, to have to rebuild the master cylinder.. i would make 2 nippels and put 2 hoses to the nipples, than fill the reservoir with brake fluid, put the 2 hoses inside the reservoir and make sure to have them under fluid all the time when you bleed the master cylinder.. when it is bleed you can put the 2 lines on and bleed the rest.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tommyd16 Posted May 21, 2020 Share Posted May 21, 2020 If the master has been drained you have to bleed that first. The way you described. Fill with fluid. Remove the 2 pipes. Cover with fingers while you get the misses to help you. Once it’s bled fluid will squirt out onto the turbos if you don’t catch it. I use a pressure to bleeder to bleed the brakes starting with the passenger rear then. Drivers rear. Then passengers front and then drivers front. If the system has been bled dry there will be air in the abs pump. If you remove the abs relay (in the small housing near the air filter) you can bridge the 2 connects momentarily to activate the pump to bleed it while the pressure bleeder is connected to your caliper. You will hear it motor. This how I did mine Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rider Posted May 21, 2020 Share Posted May 21, 2020 When I changed my brake fluid recently I had a constant stream of bubbles even after to fluid colour changed to the new oil but I sucked a good volume of fluid fast and that was a strong vacuum just sucking air into the pipe at the nipple not air travelling through the brake pipe. I then ended with under a minute of gravity bleed fluid weeping from the nipple that finished the change off nicely. I never went near to the pedals until it was all done. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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