Dan8 Posted May 18, 2020 Share Posted May 18, 2020 Hi I am currently in the process of doing my NA-T conversion using my original engine it was the perfect time to do it as the head gasket had blown and been stuck at home for weeks As my gasket had gone and overheated I thought i would definitely have to get the head skimmed and the block surface wasn’t great either made me think this would also need doing to This made me decide to open up a Unknown condition NA-T Complete engine I bought from a breakers for £300 but did not use or do anything with I wanted to see if it was a better base to start from then my original engine but it had sat in the barn for about 8 years as I did not have the funds to purchase everything required to convert at that time Now I have already purchased a Whifbitz kit and injectors and Link ECU And uprated pump Now when I have stripped it back I have found it to have ARP head stud kit And it has ARP engraved into the nuts and it had the TT head gasket Please can somebody confirm if these are standard rod and main bolts or ARP please I had a search but couldn’t find anything Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy Ven Posted May 18, 2020 Share Posted May 18, 2020 Standards. Arp are on the bolt heads Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan8 Posted May 18, 2020 Author Share Posted May 18, 2020 Thank you for clarifying that for me Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan8 Posted May 18, 2020 Author Share Posted May 18, 2020 Another quick question as I might as well change them while am at this stage When you change the mains and rod bolts to ARP obviously they must supply you new torque specs but what I would like to know is do you have to get any machining done usually to the caps when using ACL standard size bearings as the new clamping force pressure and the torque setting not designed for stretch surely makes the clearance tolerances out of spec You would have to plastigauge them but just wondering what people are usually doing if just changing rod bolts Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy Ven Posted May 18, 2020 Share Posted May 18, 2020 Hi Dan, May i ask why you are wanting to get Arp hardware for the rods only? The last thing to go is usually the bolts unless you are trying to get it revving high. Normally what cripples the ross is high torque low-down which causes them to bend, not break the rod bolts. If i were upgrading the rod bots, I would probably just spend the extra few £ and get rods with the Arp bolts. Can get a set of eagle or Manley for just over £500. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan8 Posted May 18, 2020 Author Share Posted May 18, 2020 Hi Andy Thanks for the reply and info I was just thinking of future proofing it but if this is the case I might just use the standard OEM bolts then to be honest and like you say save the money to use else where for the the build I am restricted by the W58 anyways really even though it has just been fully rebuilt I know it’s only a matter of time and my end goal is 550 to 600bhp but my Whifbitz manifold would need changing to at this level Are the original reusable or do you need to buy a fresh set I didn’t want to over build it really and forge it and new rods you see just make it last as long as possible and maybe do that in the future with the spare engine I have Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy Ven Posted May 18, 2020 Share Posted May 18, 2020 I would just use your old oem bolts. You can check them with mics to see if they are still within spec. I would put money on them being absolutely fine though. Depends how anal you are at wanting to know how much they have stretched. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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