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Timingbelt hitting tap on cover no 4 ***SOLVED***


jza800

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I am having a little issue after mounting a new timing belt. i have mountet a racing blue timing belt on my 2jzgte, but can see the tap i have on the timing belt cover (have attach a picture with a red ring), it is touching the timing belt on the outside of the belt, around 0.5 cm from the front of the engine and in, but on the timing belt, i did see it as i have a blue timing belt mountet, and i did see some blue material on the cover that goes over the cam gears and coils.. is that a comment problem when mounting another timing belt than stock? what does that tap do??

A02174 (1).png

Edited by jza800 (see edit history)
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Can you not just move it out a little so it doesn't rub

 

That was my thought to do, but i am just wondering why it is only touching the about half an cm on the belt and not all of it, i have attach a picture of the belt i have, the red line is about the width it is touching on the belt. maybe the belt is thicker than normal. i have look on many engine picture, and i have a hard time to see if people remove that tap..

1481853860616_bulletin_1024x1024.png

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You don't need to remove the tap, and it's not normal for a belt to be touching, regardless if its a stock or aftermarket belt. Normally the only time the belt touches the tap is when the belt is not installed tightly or correctly. Please upload several photos with your belt installed showing the problem please, hard to understand from your description

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You don't need to remove the tap, and it's not normal for a belt to be touching, regardless if its a stock or aftermarket belt. Normally the only time the belt touches the tap is when the belt is not installed tightly or correctly. Please upload several photos with your belt installed showing the problem please, hard to understand from your description

 

It should be mounted correct, all marks are spot on, and the tension should be within spec, as you can't do anything with that, as the Hydraulic tension should give the correct tension to the belt. on the longest side you can twist it quater of a turn so the tension should be ok. it got a new gates rpm timing belt, with new tensioner and Hydraulic Tensioner.. it is hard to take picture of, but if you stand in front of the engine and look down on the cam gears, i can see on the belt that that tap have touched the belt, as the blue colour was on the tap and was removed from the timing belt, but it is not the whole width of the belt that have touched, only aout 0.5 cm from the outside of the belt to the inside, just like the picture further up i have attach.. i have run with a gates racing belt before with no problem, so could the rpm belt be thicker than stock belt and racing belt?

 

This Kit

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Gates-RPM-Blue-Racing-Timing-Cam-Belt-Tensioner-Kit-For-JZA80-Supra-2JZ-GTE/133102585785?_trkparms=aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20160908105057%26meid%3D62b56236c061478293d71db147d78d8d%26pid%3D100675%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D15%26mehot%3Dlo%26sd%3D133102585785%26itm%3D133102585785%26pmt%3D0%26noa%3D1%26pg%3D2380057%26brand%3DGates&_trksid=p2380057.c100675.m4236&_trkparms=pageci%3A22588c5f-962b-11ea-9fd3-7e768cf40bec%7Cparentrq%3A151f19761720a9bdd3c7c485fff26eb6%7Ciid%3A1

Edited by jza800 (see edit history)
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I think i have found my problem, the bolt that goes thru the tension are too tight, i had the old tensioner laying and the bolt pops thru with no problem.. so the tensioner can not tension the belt enough thru it is very hard..

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image

 

It is this tension i am talking about. The bolt that goes thru the bracket have a tight fit, and dont goes easy thru the hole. They are all New, so the other hydraulik tensioner was pulled together with a split you pull when fittet. So am i right that the tensioner i got is faulty??

Edited by jza800 (see edit history)
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There is a washer that goes between the bracket and the oil pump. You put the bolt through the bracket, then put the washer on and install onto oil pump. If you don't have the washer the tensioner bracket will not be able to rotate and you will have problems.

 

Have you got the washer installed?

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https://jza80.mkivsupra.net/imports/2020/05/177.jpg

 

It is this tension i am talking about. The bolt that goes thru the bracket have a tight fit, and dont goes easy thru the hole. They are all New, so the other hydraulik tensioner was pulled together with a split you pull when fittet. So am i right that the tensioner i got is faulty??

 

That isn't the tentioner at all it's the pulley. The tensioner is the "grenade pin" type device what pushes onto it.

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There is a washer that goes between the bracket and the oil pump. You put the bolt through the bracket, then put the washer on and install onto oil pump. If you don't have the washer the tensioner bracket will not be able to rotate and you will have problems.

 

Have you got the washer installed?

 

I have that washer on Yes just not shown on the picture. .. But I had the old tensioner lying it did not thru out, so i tried to slide the bolt thru that, and that goes thru the hole with No force at all, and I kan slide it back and forth with No force, if i do that with the New bracket, it slide in but only with force, and it does not freely goes back and forth, there is resisten on the bracket, that way i am sure something is not right. So the clearence the thr bolt goes thru have to be the wrong size?

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I have that washer on Yes just not shown on the picture. .. But I had the old tensioner lying it did not thru out, so i tried to slide the bolt thru that, and that goes thru the hole with No force at all, and I kan slide it back and forth with No force, if i do that with the New bracket, it slide in but only with force, and it does not freely goes back and forth, there is resisten on the bracket, that way i am sure something is not right. So the clearence the thr bolt goes thru have to be the wrong size?

 

Strange issue. Is the idler pulley genuine toyota?

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Check your bolt and the new idler bracket dosen't have any burrs or machining imperfections that could cause the problem.

 

If nothing obvious then send it back to supplier and get them to send another brand. I can recomend using KOYO idler pulley set. I don't know what brand you have been supplied with but looks different to the KOYO. Failing that just go OEM, more expensive but guaranteed to work.

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Check your bolt and the new idler bracket dosen't have any burrs or machining imperfections that could cause the problem.

 

If nothing obvious then send it back to supplier and get them to send another brand. I can recomend using KOYO idler pulley set. I don't know what brand you have been supplied with but looks different to the KOYO. Failing that just go OEM, more expensive but guaranteed to work.

 

Bolt looks fine, no score or anything, the new idler pulley is a ntn brand seems ok too but have never heard of it.. the used on i have is koyo, and it fits perfekt in the bore the bolt goes thru.. will send it back or see if i can get some money back from it, so i can buy the right one..

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That have been in my mind too, but is it safe?? there is a little play on the pulley, not much but a little bit, but can i reuse it ?
Depends how old is is I guess. But I'd certainly bolt it up and see if the problem goes away, at least then you'll know that the new pulley is definitely the problem

 

 

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Depends how old is is I guess. But I'd certainly bolt it up and see if the problem goes away, at least then you'll know that the new pulley is definitely the problem

 

/QUOTE]

 

It looks good and are about 4 years old, and have gone about 20.000 km so it is not that much, the wheel on the idler bracket run freely and only have a little play when to take the wheel side to side.. i believe that is pretty normal.

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