cainhead Posted May 6, 2020 Share Posted May 6, 2020 (edited) Hello, In the process of removing most of the rear subframe and hub assembly. But im a little stuck. I have all the connections to hub off/disconnected including handbrake axle nut etc but the hub is not playing ball. Its been a while since ive done the bearings on my other supra and cant remember for the life of me if its something simple im missing. Or is the hub just corroded onto the driveshafts Anyone have any tips/ideas. All appreciated as it was all going so well. Even got the ABS sensors out without destroying them. Cheers Edited May 6, 2020 by cainhead (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rider Posted May 6, 2020 Share Posted May 6, 2020 (edited) If its not parting then your drive shaft must be stuck in the hub. I must have been fortunate as my hubs just slid off with no effort needed. Words of workshop manual wisdom "Using a hammer, lightly tap the end of the drive shaft,disengage the axle hub and remove the drive shaft. NOTICE: Be careful not to damage the boots and speed sensor rotor of the drive shaft, and oil seal of the axle hub." Or you could use a big puller. Failing that WD40, two lengthy bars and plenty of muscle. Edited May 6, 2020 by rider (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wile e coyote Posted May 6, 2020 Share Posted May 6, 2020 Yep sounds like there just stuck on so try tapping with hammer or a puller Did mine recently and did a right up but mine just tapped out Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Swampy442 Posted May 6, 2020 Share Posted May 6, 2020 In my experience Ive needed lump hammers to free off the drive shafts Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blythmrk Posted May 6, 2020 Share Posted May 6, 2020 I would give them a good coat of wd40 or something and leave till the following day. Some just slide out others are a lump hammer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cainhead Posted May 7, 2020 Author Share Posted May 7, 2020 Thanks for the advice, I’ll attack them again this afternoon. Whilst we are on the subject of removing all these parts, what’s people’s opinions on how to restore subframes, suspension parts etc. I was thinking of shot blasting most parts to strip them back/clean surface rust then recoating with some sort corrosion resistant paint, possibly powder coat some parts. Looking for any advice on what to and what not to do. Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rider Posted May 7, 2020 Share Posted May 7, 2020 If you have the frame off and it has surface rust then you are best getting it oven baked, acid dipped and then galvanized as there will almost certainly be rust inside the frame as well that you'll never be able to get to any other way. That process will cost you around £350. On the arms, if the knuckle joints are in good stiff shape and the bushes aren't mush then clean up and repaint would be good, though the top arm isn't painted so that'll just need a clean and polish. You cannot get all the arms any longer new so if you need replacements then its going to have to be a few aftermarket options or polybushing your old ones. You can get grease needles for regreasing or adding grease into the joints through the rubber boot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cainhead Posted May 7, 2020 Author Share Posted May 7, 2020 If you have the frame off and it has surface rust then you are best getting it oven baked, acid dipped and then galvanized as there will almost certainly be rust inside the frame as well that you'll never be able to get to any other way. That process will cost you around £350. That’s was my exact plan for the frame so good to hear. I read from other posts about a place up near Telford/Wales area that does this. Unless anyone knows of a place closer to SW London Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cainhead Posted May 11, 2020 Author Share Posted May 11, 2020 Getting frustrated with this now. At the point of removing the drive shafts from the diff but now the Allen key bolts holding them to the diff won’t budge. I’m using a impact wrench and they have been soaked twice overnight in wd40. Trying to find some way of using a breaker bar but the shafts turn as you would expect. Had a search but most results are about getting the shafts out of the hub. Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tommyd16 Posted May 11, 2020 Share Posted May 11, 2020 Could try heating them up Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dnk Posted May 11, 2020 Share Posted May 11, 2020 If you have the frame off and it has surface rust then you are best getting it oven baked, acid dipped and then galvanized as there will almost certainly be rust inside the frame as well that you'll never be able to get to any other way. That process will cost you around £350. That’s was my exact plan for the frame so good to hear. I read from other posts about a place up near Telford/Wales area that does this. Unless anyone knows of a place closer to SW London I had my Range Rover chassis done at Howells near B'ham, cost approx £600 5 years ago https://www.wedge-galv.co.uk/plant-locator/edward-howell-galvanizers-ltd/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scooter Posted May 11, 2020 Share Posted May 11, 2020 Won't being in gear and/or handbrake on do it?(or a helper on the brake pedal) I've swapped a diff and can't remember having a nightmare with these. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cainhead Posted May 11, 2020 Author Share Posted May 11, 2020 Won't being in gear and/or handbrake on do it?(or a helper on the brake pedal) I've swapped a diff and can't remember having a nightmare with these. Brakes are all off as I removed the hubs. Could put it in gear just worried the pressure against the diff might damage it, or is there no chance. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cainhead Posted May 11, 2020 Author Share Posted May 11, 2020 I had my Range Rover chassis done at Howells near B'ham, cost approx £600 5 years ago https://www.wedge-galv.co.uk/plant-locator/edward-howell-galvanizers-ltd/ Thanks for the info, will give them a shout for a quote. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rider Posted May 11, 2020 Share Posted May 11, 2020 (edited) The three 12mm Allen bolts should just screw straight out. Sometimes an impact won't have enough torque to break the seal dependant on what impact you are using. I have found my own electric Makita one is getting weaker with age, it used to be able to undo wheel nuts easily but now it cannot and the diff bolts are torqued up close to that setting. I always have a 3 foot breaker bar to hand and a 3 foot hollow bar that'll sleeve over that if required. Use a big bar with gently increasing force and they should give in squeaking all the way, either that or the bolt will shear. If someone has stupidly used loctite then you are buggered as you cannot get anywhere close to the thread to be able to heat that part of the bolt up. PS - I assume the frame is still fixed to the car? Its a lot easier to get the leverage on all the bolts while it is on rather than off. Edited May 11, 2020 by rider (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cainhead Posted May 11, 2020 Author Share Posted May 11, 2020 The two 12mm Allen bolts should just screw straight out. Sometimes an impact won't have enough torque to break the seal dependant on what impact you are using. I have found my own electric Makita one is getting weaker with age, it used to be able to undo wheel nuts easily but now it cannot and the diff bolts are torqued up close to that setting. I always have a 3 foot breaker bar to hand and a 3 foot hollow bar that'll sleeve over that if required. Use a big bar with gently increasing force and they should give in squeaking all the way, either that or the bolt will shear. If someone has stupidly used loctite then you are buggered as you cannot get anywhere close to the thread to be able to heat that part of the bolt up. Not tried those bolts yet, it’s the drive shaft ones going into the diff I’m stuck on. I’m sure those two will also be a pain. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rider Posted May 11, 2020 Share Posted May 11, 2020 I undid the 12 or so drive shaft bolts with a 3/8 drive ratchet using an allen socket while my colleague held the wheel with a pry bar through the studs. That way it was easy to rotate the shaft as I took out the bolts. No big effort needed, I think they are only torqued in at around 50lb'ft which leads me to think your impact is either struggling or someone seriously overtightened the bolts in the past. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cainhead Posted May 11, 2020 Author Share Posted May 11, 2020 (edited) Okay got them off, managed to jam a bar between another bolt and the subframe to stop the drive shafts spinning. The the breaker bar got them off fairly easily. Also I keep saying drive shafts but I mean axels. Cheers for the help everyone Edited May 11, 2020 by cainhead (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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