Chrism001 Posted April 23, 2020 Author Share Posted April 23, 2020 UPDATE Changed the shocks over took it for a quick spin, nothings changed. Getting exactly the same problem Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scooter Posted April 23, 2020 Share Posted April 23, 2020 Does the Vibration go at higher speeds 85 ish say? You could try a different set of wheels (stock ideally) if it's always had the same set, the they'll fit you could swap fronts and rears and see if it improves. Front end being light might be the power steering, that varies with speed ie it should provide less assistance at speed/become heavier (but won't create vibrations) https://www.supraforums.com/threads/very-light-steering-at-high-speeds.347845/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chrism001 Posted April 23, 2020 Author Share Posted April 23, 2020 Yes the vibration stays all the way upto 100+. Ideally I'd like to swap the fronts with another set of wheels, but don't have the originals and can't get hold of a set to test. I'm also running wider rears than the front so a bit hesitant to put a 10j wheel up front. Would it be OK just for a few test runs or is that a no no? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dnk Posted April 23, 2020 Share Posted April 23, 2020 Yes the vibration stays all the way upto 100+. Ideally I'd like to swap the fronts with another set of wheels, but don't have the originals and can't get hold of a set to test. I'm also running wider rears than the front so a bit hesitant to put a 10j wheel up front. Would it be OK just for a few test runs or is that a no no? Can't see why not and certainly worth trying Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
squiffy Posted April 23, 2020 Share Posted April 23, 2020 My supra used to get a vague front end at higher speeds. Tramlines in the slow lane were pretty sketchy! I polybushed the front suspension arms, upper and lower, and the steering rack and it fixed it 100% Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scooter Posted April 23, 2020 Share Posted April 23, 2020 Would it be OK just for a few test runs or is that a no no? Just be careful and check the lock to lock clearance on the spot as it may well scrape the wheel arch/plastics Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chrism001 Posted April 24, 2020 Author Share Posted April 24, 2020 I'm going to get the geometry setup again with Lee at srd and while I'm there I'll get them to have a look/test run and see what they think. I don't like to admit defeat but it's getting to a point where nothing is obviously worn/wrong so I'll just be throwing(expensive) parts at it till one of them cures the problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David P Posted April 24, 2020 Share Posted April 24, 2020 (edited) Have you managed to find my 3 offerings that disappeared to where the sun doesn't shine? My Supra had the exact same behaviour and it turned out to be the subframe bolts were seized and not tightening. Cost to fix. FREE. On a road surface, without jacking it up, with the engine running, get someone to turn the steering wheel left and right a little bit. Whilst they do, both watch & feel the aluminium subframe for any movement. If there is no movement there, whilst you're on your back, do the same with the rack mounting bushes and trackrods. Edited April 24, 2020 by David P (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chrism001 Posted April 24, 2020 Author Share Posted April 24, 2020 Have you managed to find my 3 offerings that disappeared to where the sun doesn't shine? My Supra had the exact same behaviour and it turned out to be the subframe bolts were seized and not tightening. Cost to fix. FREE. On a road surface, without jacking it up, with the engine running, get someone to turn the steering wheel left and right a little bit. Whilst they do, both watch & feel the aluminium subframe for any movement. If there is no movement there, whilst you're on your back, do the same with the rack mounting bushes and trackrods. I did what you said, lossened the frame bolts off slightly then re torqued them up but still no change. Bolts were free though. Steering rack bushes look good and I can't find any play in the rack or track rods, I did do this in the air though. The cars back on the ground now so I'll try what you said and look/feel for any movement, if I can get to the rack with it on the ground. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rider Posted April 24, 2020 Share Posted April 24, 2020 If you have steering wheel vibration there are only so many things that can be causing that. 1. Your tyres aren't round, they have bulges or flat spots 2. Your control or steering arms are loose 3. your shocks are shot 4. Your brakes are binding 5. Your steering geomerty is out so your front wheels aren't running true Seeing you write that the frame bolts were free if that means loose then you need to check the steering geometry. You can check that yourself with bits of wire and string to see if the wheels are actually pointing in the same direction. There are plenty of tube videos on DIY alignment. Then if you confirm that is your issue you can get it setup professionally. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dnk Posted April 25, 2020 Share Posted April 25, 2020 (edited) Before going to SRD do you have a good local garage you know, 1 hour on the ramp doing a full check underneath i'd have thought will find your problem or at least rule out a lot of things Also do you have F1 autocenters near you, they used to do a free geo check which i've used in the past https://www.f1autocentres.co.uk/wheel-alignment Edited April 25, 2020 by Dnk (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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