Style Posted March 23, 2020 Share Posted March 23, 2020 So I've just had one of these fitted along with a brand new OEM flywheel and my God it's jumpy. I've done next to zero miles on it at the moment but just wanted to see what everyone else's experience has been with these out the box in case there's something wrong with mine. Once the cars rolling it's okay, but 1st gear pulling away from stationary and even getting into 2nd if you're going slow enough is dreadful. Reverse is also a nightmare to select as well. It feels like it's locking me out but eventually goes in with enough force...nearly 2 hands required. So that's not filling me with confidence tbh. I've heard that can be down to some loose bolts under the car though. It doesn't get any easier if i select a forward gear first or add some additional revs so I'm confident it's not a dragging clutch. It's a 6 speed as well for reference. Coupling the harsh/jumpy engagement with the OS Giken diff makes it even worse as that's pretty grabby/clunky when the grabby/clunky clutch engages as well. So I look like a right pleb who can't drive a manual now...not that I was that good in the first place Anyone have any experience to put my mind at ease? Might just need bedding in with a few 5th gear starts I suppose Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike2JZ Posted March 23, 2020 Share Posted March 23, 2020 Can't say I've done a spec stage 3+ on a 6 speed, but all the ones I've fitted to R154's drive superb, on par with oem drivability. Check your friction disc hasn't been installed backwards, and make sure the pull hub release system has been fitted with the correct washers etc. Where is your biting point on the pedal. Perhaps you need to play with clutch pedal adjustment rod Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cam27 Posted March 23, 2020 Share Posted March 23, 2020 I had one on my W58 and it was great mate, but can't say I've heard anything about the 6 speed version. Spec's blurb claims it can hold serious torque so I was looking at getting one, maybe not now! Maybe speak to Whiffin, i remember seeing he fitted one to a single turbo car a while back? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supra-love Posted March 23, 2020 Share Posted March 23, 2020 Well I was recommended the spec stage 3+ by Tim at tbdevelopements for my 6speed. Little Num is installing mine, when it’s complete I will let you know what mines like also just hope it’s not like yours, doesn’t sound good at all mate. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jjs_82 Posted March 23, 2020 Share Posted March 23, 2020 clutch pedal adjustment is what you need to do. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WayneW Posted March 24, 2020 Share Posted March 24, 2020 Yes, I personnaly had to fit a landcruiser main cylinder (bigger piston's Ø) and fabricate a piece to get the rigid piping correctly bolted on it. The stock main cylinder may not push enough your hydraulic release bearing, the clutch doesnt effect enough, you so struggle to get the gears in. You also have to get minimal gap between the release bearing and pressure plate... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Style Posted March 24, 2020 Author Share Posted March 24, 2020 Can't say I've done a spec stage 3+ on a 6 speed, but all the ones I've fitted to R154's drive superb, on par with oem drivability. Check your friction disc hasn't been installed backwards, and make sure the pull hub release system has been fitted with the correct washers etc. Where is your biting point on the pedal. Perhaps you need to play with clutch pedal adjustment rod I'd heard that they were pretty good for driveability compared to stock which is what surprised me with this one. The biting point is really high up the pedal and comes on like a switch. So will have a look at adjusting the pedal to bring the bite down a little. Can you check the friction plate's orientation through the inspection port? Easy way to tell which way round is which? I can't remember if the plate looks different front to back. I had one on my W58 and it was great mate, but can't say I've heard anything about the 6 speed version. Spec's blurb claims it can hold serious torque so I was looking at getting one, maybe not now! Maybe speak to Whiffin, i remember seeing he fitted one to a single turbo car a while back? Yeah it's good up to like 800ft/lbs or something mate which is one of the reasons I picked it up. Won't have to worry about it for a long time! I'll see if the adjustment helps as Mike suggested and check everything is on the right way round. Failing that I'lll see if Paul has any ideas Well I was recommended the spec stage 3+ by Tim at tbdevelopements for my 6speed. Little Num is installing mine, when it’s complete I will let you know what mines like also just hope it’s not like yours, doesn’t sound good at all mate. Thanks mate. It'll probably just be something silly on mine that needs tweaking or adjusting but if you could let me know anyway, that would be great clutch pedal adjustment is what you need to do. Thanks, going to have a look once I'm allowed out of the house Yes, I personnaly had to fit a landcruiser main cylinder (bigger piston's Ø) and fabricate a piece to get the rigid piping correctly bolted on it. The stock main cylinder may not push enough your hydraulic release bearing, the clutch doesnt effect enough, you so struggle to get the gears in. [ATTACH=CONFIG]235205[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]235206[/ATTACH] You also have to get minimal gap between the release bearing and pressure plate... Thanks Wayne. What master cylinder did you have in the first place? I'm NA 6 speed at the moment and have read that this is the best to have as it provides the most amount of travel. It then just becomes a case of adjusting everything to achieve the desired results. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WayneW Posted March 24, 2020 Share Posted March 24, 2020 It was a pre-facelift TT6 Supra. The guy is now driving more than 3 years without any problem like this. Does your car still move (even a very little bit) if you put 1st gear and press the clutch pedal to the floor ? This could be a sign of a "non pushed enough" pressure plate... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Style Posted March 24, 2020 Author Share Posted March 24, 2020 It was a pre-facelift TT6 Supra. The guy is now driving more than 3 years without any problem like this. Does your car still move (even a very little bit) if you put 1st gear and press the clutch pedal to the floor ? This could be a sign of a "non pushed enough" pressure plate... No the car sits still in first gear so I don't think it's a case of the clutch not fully releasing. The bite point is right at the top of the pedal, so I think it just needs adjusting the other way to bring the bite point closer to the middle of the pedal Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jjs_82 Posted March 24, 2020 Share Posted March 24, 2020 My bite point is at the top but everything is good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Josh42 Posted March 24, 2020 Share Posted March 24, 2020 I have exactly this problem with my stage 3+ on an R154. Almost undriveable. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Style Posted March 25, 2020 Author Share Posted March 25, 2020 My bite point is at the top but everything is good. Does it at least slip mate? I just get nothing, nothing, nothing, ON and the car takes off. I have exactly this problem with my stage 3+ on an R154. Almost undriveable. /QUOTE] Very strange mate. If Mike has had success then there must be something that needs fiddling with. I can't even leave the house to troubleshoot anymore Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jjs_82 Posted March 25, 2020 Share Posted March 25, 2020 Yes I can slip it. My one was on or off at the start. Very jumpy you need to get some miles on it. Bedding in Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Style Posted March 25, 2020 Author Share Posted March 25, 2020 Yes I can slip it. My one was on or off at the start. Very jumpy you need to get some miles on it. Bedding in Well that's at least good to know. Just need to adjust the bite point a little then. I've found the reccomended dimensions for travel / bite point etc in the TSRM so will have a look and see what happens Still need to get to the bottom of reverse being hard to select though Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sebas Posted March 25, 2020 Share Posted March 25, 2020 I have spec Stage3+ on my single turbo V161 with oem flywheel, no problems at all with it, it holds the power and it is nice to daily drive Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Style Posted March 26, 2020 Author Share Posted March 26, 2020 I have spec Stage3+ on my single turbo V161 with oem flywheel, no problems at all with it, it holds the power and it is nice to daily drive Good to know, thanks. Is your bite point towards the top of the pedal travel or further down? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sebas Posted March 26, 2020 Share Posted March 26, 2020 Good to know, thanks. Is your bite point towards the top of the pedal travel or further down? Hi, I will say the bite point will be towards the top of the pedal travel. It is a little bit different to OEM clutch, I have done about 8000 miles with it and cant complain, but i'm not performing crazy burnouts or drifting Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Style Posted March 27, 2020 Author Share Posted March 27, 2020 Hi, I will say the bite point will be towards the top of the pedal travel. It is a little bit different to OEM clutch, I have done about 8000 miles with it and cant complain, but i'm not performing crazy burnouts or drifting Nice one, good information to know. Thanks mate Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mitch Supra Posted March 28, 2020 Share Posted March 28, 2020 Hi, I have a Spec 3+ mine sounds exactly the same as yours and its noisy, it does get easier to drive from a stand still with time but would not get another in my experience Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
james_cbr Posted April 2, 2020 Share Posted April 2, 2020 I have spec stage 3+ on my 6 speed there much better once bed in do it as it says on the paperwork in the box Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Style Posted April 3, 2020 Author Share Posted April 3, 2020 Hi, I have a Spec 3+ mine sounds exactly the same as yours and its noisy, it does get easier to drive from a stand still with time but would not get another in my experience I have spec stage 3+ on my 6 speed there much better once bed in do it as it says on the paperwork in the box Thanks guys. Looks like I've got the pedal travel to check to make sure it's as per the TSRM Try and get to the insepction plate to make sure everything looks right and the plate isn't on back to front Check the gearbox is bolted back in to place properly (no loose bolts underneath) Try and get the clutch bedded in and see how it improves Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Style Posted April 6, 2020 Author Share Posted April 6, 2020 Just a quick update on this I've checked the clutch pedal travel and free play against the TSRM and it's bang on. Even the clutch release point is within spec despite having quite a high bite point. So that's just something I'll have to get used to and to be honest, it's getting easier already. I was playing around with gear changes and moving away from a stop whilst doing to Tesco run and noticed that carefully pulling away and also gear changes without any throttle are totally fine. It's only when trying to slip the clutch between gears as well as pulling away that I get this horrendous clunking from the diff area. Having done some more searching and reading, it could also be a knackered UJ that has just got too much play in it and is what causes the harsh jolts when it freely rotates and then picks up a torsional load all at once, transferring through to the diff. So some progress but still some investigating to do. I'm feeling a lot better about the clutch now and starting to lean towards something else in the drivetrain being loose or just at the end of it's life. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Style Posted July 13, 2020 Author Share Posted July 13, 2020 Problem solved. Clutch master cylinder was shot and once replaced along with a new HEL braided line, it's much better. Fluid was getting out of the system somewhere whenever the clutch was pressed so quick gear changes went un-noticed. Wasn't until I was sitting at a red light in 1st gear and the car stalled that I realised something was up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m4dsup Posted July 14, 2020 Share Posted July 14, 2020 I have one on my V160, no issues here either. Holding over 700hp and pulls away pretty smoothly. Not too heavy either. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m4dsup Posted July 14, 2020 Share Posted July 14, 2020 Problem solved. Clutch master cylinder was shot and once replaced along with a new HEL braided line, it's much better. Fluid was getting out of the system somewhere whenever the clutch was pressed so quick gear changes went un-noticed. Wasn't until I was sitting at a red light in 1st gear and the car stalled that I realised something was up. Glad to hear its sorted bud. Only read page one before replying Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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