Best way to remove seized arm bolts - rear subframe

[Nathanj1142]

Hello,

 

Having trouble getting the bolts out of the lower arms on my supra - with the cam washers.

 

ive managed to get one out by razzing it with an impact and a big hammer on the end of it after heating it up - but the lobes on the cam washer tends to dig into the subframe and bend it out and dont want to damage it too much...

 

Is the only other way to keep hammering? or would it be better just to cut through them and get new ones.

 

Cheers.

[Dnk]

Cut them off and replace, did mine this way. But you'll need new arms and or bushes too

Edited November 10, 2019 by Dnk (see edit history)

[Samurai 20V]

Cut them off and replace, did mine this way. But you'll need new arms and or bushes too

 

Same here...

[Style]

Yep, cut and replace

[Nathanj1142]

Thanks for the replies!

 

Will get the angle grinder out lol.

 

 

 

 

[Dnk]

Thanks for the replies!

 

Will get the angle grinder out lol.

 

 

 

/QUOTE]

 

We used a large diameter cutting disc, don't forget your goggles

[Nathanj1142]

We used a large diameter cutting disc, don't forget your goggles

 

I’ll wear a face shield lol them sparks sting a bit.

 

When reassembling did you cover them in copper grease to prevent it from happening again? Just thinking of future me if I need to take it apart again

 

Cheers

 

 

 

[Dnk]

I’ll wear a face shield lol them sparks sting a bit.

 

When reassembling did you cover them in copper grease to prevent it from happening again? Just thinking of future me if I need to take it apart again

 

Cheers

 

 

/QUOTE]

 

Face shield is good, the thin discs can break quite easily

 

What you use as far as some lube is concerned will depend on what you replace the

bushes with, i think the polybush makers recommend a silicon based grease, we

used copper grease on mine but they were all new OE arms and we only used a

small amount on the bolt

[rider]

You don't want to turn the cam bolt otherwise you could strip the bolt thread on the nut seeing it's only a half thread anyway. Then you'll never unwind the nut.

 

The easy way, if there is an easy way, I have used is to drill a series of holes along one flat of the holding nut then hit with a cold chisel. You could use a nut cracker if you have one. Once the nut is cracked or split wide enough open then the bolt can be easily hammered out. I figured it was a much better use of my time to do this than spend a long time with a grinder and dodging a stream of sparks.

[Dnk]

You don't want to turn the cam bolt otherwise you could strip the bolt thread on the nut seeing it's only a half thread anyway. Then you'll never unwind the nut.

 

The easy way, if there is an easy way, I have used is to drill a series of holes along one flat of the holding nut then hit with a cold chisel. You could use a nut cracker if you have one. Once the nut is cracked or split wide enough open then the bolt can be easily hammered out. I figured it was a much better use of my time to do this than spend a long time with a grinder and dodging a stream of sparks.

 

I'd guess the problem is they're seized inside the bushes, undoing the nut on the eccentric adjuster isn't the problem hence

they need to be cut off

[Nathanj1142]

Dunk is correct - the bolt is seized inside the inner race but can get the nuts off fine

[mellonman]

cut off bolts press out bush and replace with poly bushes

[Nathanj1142]

cut off bolts press out bush and replace with poly bushes

 

Think I’m replacing all the Lower arms.

 

 

 

[Nathanj1142]

 

Took me a couple hours to do one - was trying to be extra careful but still really thin near the hole:

 

Reckon this will be ok to leave as is?

 

Cheers

[rider]

[ATTACH=CONFIG]233804[/ATTACH]

 

Reckon this will be ok to leave as is?

 

Cheers

 

I sent my sub frame off to a stripper then galvaniser, well worth considering as it's not that expensive and removes all the rust and also add 0.1mm to the thickness.

[Nathanj1142]

I sent my sub frame off to a stripper then galvaniser, well worth considering as it's not that expensive and removes all the rust and also add 0.1mm to the thickness.

 

Tried to find one near me but they’re all commercial based and won’t do it - I’m going to get shot blast and powder coat I think - I know it’s not as durable but will most likely undersell the bottom side

 

 

 

[rider]

This was the group I used in the West Midlands who also have a plant in your area. They put me in touch with a oven stripping company and coordinated the movement from the stripper to their facility.

[rider]

A treated and dipped frame can get inside the sections and all the places you otherwise cannot reach. I ended up painting my frame but I could have just run the blinged up version.

 

[Nathanj1142]

A treated and dipped frame can get inside the sections and all the places you otherwise cannot reach. I ended up painting my frame but I could have just run the blinged up version.

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]233805[/ATTACH]

 

I rang Humber and they said they couldn’t do it on ‘aged metal’. Hm strange I’ll give them another try tomorrow - looks awesome tho mate

 

 

 

[David P]

Powder coating is the kiss of death for steel.

It looks pretty on the outside, however, it cracks and lets water get behind it which is then trapped there and rots it away out of sight.

Galvanising is best, if not clean it up with media blasting and use a sacrificial anode galvanic paint.

[rider]

I rang Humber and they said they couldn’t do it on ‘aged metal’. Hm strange I’ll give them another try tomorrow - looks awesome tho mate

 

 

/QUOTE]

 

You need to have the frame oven (not acid) treated first. This removes the paint and cures the rust so when the galvenizer acid dips the part the rust dissolves away easily. You may need to find a oven stripping company on your own but the results are well worth it and galvanizing is the only way you can get effective corrosion protection inside the frame. If you do go down this route then make sure you take plenty of pictures first as the zinc does pool in the bolt threads so needs to be melted out and tapped afterwards. You can use high temp greases instead but galvenizers can and do complain about grease in their treatment baths. Or you can leave the bolts in place and then heat and remove those when the frame comes back.

 

I went for the melt out and re-tap option myself so that method is tried and tested and works well. The info on what taps are required is on my galvanized sub frame project thread. I'd probably try the leaving the bolts in on any second go and then refitting with new if only for comparison if nothing else.

[Nathanj1142]

What about the loose nuts where the diff mounts too? That can move up and down in the slot.

 

Do I need to break them free once done

 

 

 

[Jellybean]

I would do what David suggested , media Blast , coat in Galvafroid with a brush, Hammerite satin black over it

[Nathanj1142]

Rang couple more places and got quoted £70+VAT for acid dip - degrease and galvanising. Is the oven treatment necessary would you say? Or does it just improve the finish overall? Will keep looking but just incase can’t find anywhere

[blythmrk]

I would do what David suggested , media Blast , coat in Galvafroid with a brush, Hammerite satin black over it

 

Hammerite is my favourite