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The mkiv Supra Owners Club

Lowering Springs


Soop Dogg

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If anyone has 'before and after' pics of their Supra with/without lowering springs, could you email them to me or point me to them.

 

I'm thinking of buying the Eibach lowering springs, but the last one I saw that had them fitted, seemed to sit higher at the front than at the back. Personally I think the car should sit at least level, or with the nose lower than the tail. Unsure whether to go for these or for a set of ride height adjustable coil-overs. (Much more expensive I know, and would be a more satisfactory solution to the problem, but I'd like to save a little cash for now if poss!)

 

Cheers.

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Before - standard shocks/springs at 70k miles approx:

 

http://www.mpaconsultancy.co.uk/supra/suspensionbefore.jpg

 

The rear was definitely lower, but I have a feeling the rear springs were sagging a bit....

 

After, with Whiteline "The Works" kit:

 

http://www.mpaconsultancy.co.uk/supra/suspensionafter.jpg

 

I have some on-track hard-cornering shots, before and after, if they're any use....

 

Despite the problems some people have had with Whiteline, IMO it was a bargain (at £700 approx) and I've had no problems (yet!), I could have just been lucky I suppose...!

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Before:

 

http://www.mpaconsultancy.co.uk/supra/suspensionbefore_track.jpg

 

After:

 

http://www.mpaconsultancy.co.uk/supra/suspensionafter_track.jpg

 

Slightly different corners, but you get the idea - if anything, the "after" shot was on a tighter corner.....it hardly moves now with the Whiteline kit on! :cool:

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Cheers Mark. (Oh yeah, and thanks alot Justiin...most helpful! LOL!):)

 

Ok, so where can I get a Whiteline kit for £700 ish?

 

Also, are there any pics of cars with Eibachs fitted as they are the cheaper alternative which could be a good interim measure.

 

Thanks.

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Fitting lowering springs may be cheaper in the short term but this makes your standard shocks work much harder so be prepared to change them as well (seriously reducing life span times), adding more cost.

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How does it work the shocks harder? Their travel distance will be, if anything, less due to stiffer springs, and the start and end travel positions are irrelevant in a shock as long as they sit within the shock's overall travel scope, so I can't see how it works them harder :)

 

-Ian

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Ask any supplier they will tell you the same (maybe its because they are a supplier) but i believe its all down to the operating temp inside the shock, plus yes the distance travelled is shorter because the spring is stiffer therefore shock works harder due to the stiffer spring - harder work = shorter lifespan

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Originally posted by mos

Ask any supplier they will tell you the same (maybe its because they are a supplier) but i believe its all down to the operating temp inside the shock, plus yes the distance travelled is shorter because the spring is stiffer therefore shock works harder due to the stiffer spring - harder work = shorter lifespan

 

If I have to travel a shorter distance I consider it to be doing *less* work :)

 

A stiffer spring would mean, on the compression and the rebound, that the distance traveled for the shock is less so less work is done. However, this distance is traveled faster, so more work is done. I suspect these forces balance out.

 

Work done influences the operating temperature in the shock. As the fluid in the shock is shifted through a valve, using hydraulic restriction rather than compressive resistance to perform it's function, the preload of the shock (i.e. how 'compressed' it starts at due to the ride height) wouldn't affect the operating temperature.

 

However, having just read the article JB has linked to, I'm completely ready to have someone competent on the suspension front to shoot down my arguments :)

 

-Ian

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Where is the link to jb's article, dont forget the car has been lowered so the standard shosck is constantly trying to force the car back to standard height (more work). Yes less distance is travelled but under more force (it has to be the spring is stiffer) again more force = more work regardless of distance travelled. In standard form the shock is moving a greater distance but is working with a softer spring

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the car has been lowered so the standard shosck is constantly trying to force the car back to standard height

 

The Shock doesn't exert any upward force, that's what the spring is for! The job of the shock is to absorb the energy passed into the suspension when compression force is applied by driving over a bump or the rebound energy provided by the compressed spring trying to return to its' original state. It exerts no force of its own.

 

On Compression, surely the shock won't really have any extra force put through it at all. It still has the same weight bearing down on it, in fact the spring will hold the wight of the car more than the stock spring as it requires more unit weight to move a unit distance. However, on rebound, the spring will have more energy stored in it, and it is this that the shock absorber has to damp.

 

I reckon it (the shock) will only be doing more work on the rebound part of its' job.

 

When I increase the pre-load on the shock of my motorcycle, it's never had any material effect on the life of the shock.

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I just want to throw in my recomendation for the height adjustable H&R Coilovers. Had them a couple of months, went from knackered Teins. Very impressed. Wouldn't change a thing. Firm but not harsh........

Cost around 800 from Ibrar.

 

I think the Whiteline kit is possibly stiffer though (just an impression I get), but just about anything would be softer than the teins I had.

Also I think the Whiteline kit is more than just shocks and springs.

The car doesn't seem to needs anything else suspension wise though. She has done 95K. :)

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I don't follow this "less movement is harder work" stuff. The problem you will experience with higher rate springs on standard shock absorbers will be that the oscillation of the spring will be short but at a higher frequency than the shock absorber can damp. In other words the spring will bounce a lot. You really need to uprate the damping to match the springs.

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Guest Martin F
Originally posted by gwillson75

I just want to throw in my recomendation for the height adjustable H&R Coilovers. Had them a couple of months, went from knackered Teins.

 

Gordon, i'm curious why didn't you get the Tein's rebuilt ?

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Martin, I did enquire with a couple of people.

Thing is the nuts, which hold the spring up (?!) were also corroded/rotten and actually came apart in my hands. So it would have been a lot of work to get them sorted.

I was also told by our resident suspension expert that they were probably bin fodder.

I still have them if anyone wants them ?

They are a bit of a mess (95k,10yrs).

I'm gonna chuck them soon, so let me know.

 

 

I'm well happy with the H&Rs though. I think the Teins (when new) are more suited to track driving (speculating).

 

btw. They are the Tein HRs which are not damping adjustable.

 

Cheers

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