Hi all 1994 Supra , M150 , precision 6766

[SupraM150]

Hi all, I'm a new member in mkivsupra.net forum . I have a 1994 Supra (US Spec) with 6 speed manual and I have installed the 2jz-gte vvti (Jdm engine), I have also installed Motec M150 , Precision 6766 turbo, greddy 3 row intercooler, Denso 800cc injectors, 3 inch down pipe, trust/Greddy muffler. My current boost is 1.7(24.5 psi) bar but unfortunately the numbers on the mustang dyno are not good and I'm not sure what is the issue exactly , I think it is a tuning problem . I got at 1.7 bar 355 whp without weather correction and 388 whp with weather correction , I used to have the sequential stock jdm twin turbos but I had them work in parallel mode and my numbers on the same dyno were 305whp without weather correction and around 330whp with weather correction and I was boosting at that time 15 psi which is around one bar with a blitz tune. so I increased 10 psi and have a larger turbo but the power output is very low. AFR at WOT 11.3 and ignition at wot with high rpm is around 12 . The tuner advised that more than this ignition, it starts to knock which I really don't understand as I think at 1,7 bar I should be around 16 degree for ignition, and my power should be around 480 whp. Fuel used 98 ron . Please advise your comments and if you have a tune at 1.7 bar or 1.5 bar , I'd like to know what ignition you are running at wot.

 

Thank you all and have a great day

[Ian Ian]

Hi all, I'm a new member in mkivsupra.net forum . I have a 1994 Supra (US Spec) with 6 speed manual and I have installed the 2jz-gte vvti (Jdm engine), I have also installed Motec M150 , Precision 6766 turbo, greddy 3 row intercooler, Denso 800cc injectors, 3 inch down pipe, trust/Greddy muffler. My current boost is 1.7(24.5 psi) bar but unfortunately the numbers on the mustang dyno are not good and I'm not sure what is the issue exactly , I think it is a tuning problem . I got at 1.7 bar 355 whp without weather correction and 388 whp with weather correction , I used to have the sequential stock jdm twin turbos but I had them work in parallel mode and my numbers on the same dyno were 305whp without weather correction and around 330whp with weather correction and I was boosting at that time 15 psi which is around one bar with a blitz tune. so I increased 10 psi and have a larger turbo but the power output is very low. AFR at WOT 11.3 and ignition at wot with high rpm is around 12 . The tuner advised that more than this ignition, it starts to knock which I really don't understand as I think at 1,7 bar I should be around 16 degree for ignition, and my power should be around 480 whp. Fuel used 98 ron . Please advise your comments and if you have a tune at 1.7 bar or 1.5 bar , I'd like to know what ignition you are running at wot.

 

Thank you all and have a great day

 

Hello SupraM150 try posting this in the Technical section you may get more chance of an answer, good luck in solving your problem

 

Cheers

-Ian-

[Mike2JZ]

Here are a few things you can check

 

- Do a compression test, confirm engine is healthy

- Check the timing belt has been timed correctly. If it's VVTI make sure you have timed the belt using the straight marks rather than the dots.

- If you have aftermarket cams/cam pulleys, check they have been shimmed correctly and cam pulleys are set to 0 (change only once tuning if needed).

- Check your throttle opens 100%. Sometimes it's possible that throttle system gets stuck on a nearby fuel fitting/fuel hose etc.

- If you are using VVTI ethrottle still, then make sure tuner has calibrated ethrottle map to give proper throttle opening. Take intercooler pipe off and check that throttle opens fully.

- Smoke/Boost leak check the car. You could have a major boost leak you don't know about.

- Check that your ignition system is new. New coilpacks, new coilpack clips, NGK Grade 8 spark plugs or colder. If not, could be experiencing a misfire.

- Check your VVTI system is working correctly, solenoid is good, filter is clean etc. Check that the map he has put in for VVTI makes sense. Generally VVT should be aggressive in low rpm's before tapering off by the time you reach high rpm.

- Check you have no exhaust blockages. Cats, broken exhaust backboxes, bungs etc. A blockage will lead to higher turbo backpressure strangling your power and causing excessive cylinder heat leading to early onset of det.

- Check alternator charging voltage, should be doing 14v on idle and around 13.5 on full boost.

- Also not that it should affect your total power output, but denso injectors are shit. Lots of drivability issues from them, especially when they get warm. Might want to put some bosch style injectors on your future wishlist.

- Check tuner has calibrated base timing on the ECU correctly.

 

If you have a map file, logs from the dyno and printout of dyno pull then I can investigate the tune further.

[SupraM150]

Here are a few things you can check

 

- Do a compression test, confirm engine is healthy

- Check the timing belt has been timed correctly. If it's VVTI make sure you have timed the belt using the straight marks rather than the dots.

- If you have aftermarket cams/cam pulleys, check they have been shimmed correctly and cam pulleys are set to 0 (change only once tuning if needed).

- Check your throttle opens 100%. Sometimes it's possible that throttle system gets stuck on a nearby fuel fitting/fuel hose etc.

- If you are using VVTI ethrottle still, then make sure tuner has calibrated ethrottle map to give proper throttle opening. Take intercooler pipe off and check that throttle opens fully.

- Smoke/Boost leak check the car. You could have a major boost leak you don't know about.

- Check that your ignition system is new. New coilpacks, new coilpack clips, NGK Grade 8 spark plugs or colder. If not, could be experiencing a misfire.

- Check your VVTI system is working correctly, solenoid is good, filter is clean etc. Check that the map he has put in for VVTI makes sense. Generally VVT should be aggressive in low rpm's before tapering off by the time you reach high rpm.

- Check you have no exhaust blockages. Cats, broken exhaust backboxes, bungs etc. A blockage will lead to higher turbo backpressure strangling your power and causing excessive cylinder heat leading to early onset of det.

- Check alternator charging voltage, should be doing 14v on idle and around 13.5 on full boost.

- Also not that it should affect your total power output, but denso injectors are $#@!. Lots of drivability issues from them, especially when they get warm. Might want to put some bosch style injectors on your future wishlist.

- Check tuner has calibrated base timing on the ECU correctly.

 

If you have a map file, logs from the dyno and printout of dyno pull then I can investigate the tune further.

 

Thank you for your immediate reply.

1)Compression test done , all cylinders ok

2)Timing will check, didn't change it recently but I'll double check. Stock cams and stock pulleys.

3)New coil packs, New spark plugs denso IK24 now ( when on dyno it had around 2000 km, only problem he started the car with the new injectors on the old ecu so it got too much fuel for around 2 minutes and then he fixed the motec and took them out cleaned and tuned, but I changed the spark plugs after that.

4)I have no experience in the vvti map so it will be hard to check.

5)How to check the vvti solenoid.

5)Made a boost leak check , all ok. and the boost is reading good on the gauge and in the log of the Motec M150

6)Exhaust is a straight pipe from engine to rear muffler , no blockage.

7)Alternator is giving 13.5 at full power.

8)I have two problems with the injectors , in idle the tuner increased the air/fuel ratio making it around 13.5 to keep the rpm from fluctuating in idle but it is too rich and I'm not convinced it is the injectors, I think its the map, you have better experience, please tell me do you think it is the map or the injectors in idle. Second thing I can't understand is that the injectors are running at around 90% duty cycle in 1.5 bar which is not reasonable because I'm only getting around 330 whp without weather correction.With WCF around 355. something doesn't add up because the injectors should be running at around 60 or 70% at wot in high rpm. The injectors were chosen from the drop menu in Motec software and they are original Toyota part (1001-87092) so they can't be giving less than their specs.

Please find attached the dyno chart and a couple of photos of the log at 6700 rpm , I'll get the log file and upload it for you so you can check it after. The dyno had the run for the oem twin turbos , it had a drop in mid range because the car was converted to parallel mode instead of sequential and didn't have the motec yet so I couldn't tune it so if you floor it on dyno from low rpm it would put a lot of fuel so the power goes down but when i was driving I never had a problem because I didn't floor it before 5000 rpm.

The Motec M150 has the john reed package for the supra vvti engine.

Thank you so much for the help, I really appreciate it.

[Shane34]

Plug gaps?

 

I had to go down to 0.5mm on my mr2 when shooting for 500bhp

[SupraM150]

Plug gaps?

 

I had to go down to 0.5mm on my mr2 when shooting for 500bhp

 

It is an iridium plug at stock gap 0.8

[Shane34]

I had to go to a colder grade plug, and gap them to .5mm, I don't no Enough about Supra tuning at higher boost but I would imagine you could be blowing out your spark with .8mm?

 

I'm sure there is plenty on here with the same or higher boost levels that could tell you there set up.

 

What plugs you running?

[SupraM150]

I had to go to a colder grade plug, and gap them to .5mm, I don't no Enough about Supra tuning at higher boost but I would imagine you could be blowing out your spark with .8mm?

 

I'm sure there is plenty on here with the same or higher boost levels that could tell you there set up.

 

What plugs you running?

 

Denso ik24 , 2 step colder than original