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Original paintwork query (cleaning)


swiftstu

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Hi all,

 

This may seem like a really stupid query - Sorry in advance. My Supe is a black Jspec '95.

 

When I first bought it, it went under a tent and I:

 

Rinsed, Snow foamed (AB), rinsed, 2 bucket washed (Megs soap), claybar'd, de oxidised, cleaned the paint(Dodo Juice), 3 step machine polished, and finally 3 coats of collinite 476 over about 13 hours.

 

Now after that it looked lovely.

 

A couple of weeks ago (a month after the above) I Rinsed, Snow foamed, rinsed, 2 bucket washed, and dried with big fluffy micro fibre towels.

 

I now seem to have a ridiculous amount of scratches back and I just don't get it. And by that I mean it needs another machine polish.

 

Is the clear coat particularly soft? or does it have trouble adhering to some sealants and waxes? I've owned black cars before, but never seen this level of damage after a month and a wash.

 

Just any thoughts on the above would be great..

 

Ta

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Are you using a pre-wash? I always used a citrus pre-cleaner to help shift the bulk of the muck. Aswell, if your going to the extent of a 3 stage machine polish, i would have looked at possibly ceramic coating rather than just a wax. Colonite 476 is a great wax but i did find unless its cleaned every week and topped up every month it didnt work as effectivley

 

 

 

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Are you using a pre-wash? I always used a citrus pre-cleaner to help shift the bulk of the muck. Aswell, if your going to the extent of a 3 stage machine polish, i would have looked at possibly ceramic coating rather than just a wax. Colonite 476 is a great wax but i did find unless its cleaned every week and topped up every month it didnt work as effectivley

 

 

/QUOTE]

 

Hi Andy,

 

in terms of pre wash I only rinsed and snow foam'd. The car was pretty clean already so didn't use anything first. I do use a combined de Ox and TSR solutions after claybar for any micro particles.

 

I have to admit with the results I have, I don't think collinite was the correct choice. I love the stuff and always have, but I think I should have gone the ceramic route.

 

I am a little worried now as to how much clear coat is left... I think I'll borrow a micrometer from someone.

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if its only light scratches you are going ott with a 3 stage, and could be causing the problem , if the car is relatively clean , don't use the snowfoam , no need just pw off the worst of the dirt and just 2 buckets off you go . don't go on dw most of the info is BS from guys who know fuck all and most are still in junior school, also if you've already done a 3 stage you should have taken your thickness reading then ,I think it should be ok but doubt itll need another 3 stage

Edited by peter richards (see edit history)
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if its only light scratches you are going ott with a 3 stage, and could be causing the problem , if the car is relatively clean , don't use the snowfoam , no need just pw off the worst of the dirt and just 2 buckets off you go . don't go on dw most of the info is BS from guys who know $#@! all and most are still in junior school, also if you've already done a 3 stage you should have taken your thickness reading then ,I think it should be ok but doubt itll need another 3 stage

 

Thanks Peter, it was quite a mess before the polish, virtually perfect after, but now light scratches again. I’ll miss the snow foam, and not machine polish again. You mention dw, what’s that?

 

I think I will look to ceramic coat it after some very minor correction and leave it there.

 

Thanks for the input.

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just be carefull with ceramic products they have come on a lot in recent months , application can be a pita and curing times , me being mobile I cant use them , not sure what out there now as regards putting the stuff on I know a few companys started up here just doing it they lasted a few months , to expensive for what you get

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the only thing I can think of is the scratches or what you can see is in the colly ,try stripping it back gently mild clay bar , and see if the finish you had after machining comes back just try it on a wing or one panel

 

That's a very good shout. could be the wax either impacted, or contaminated... it was super heated during the hot weather as my wife left it out in the sun (on the 38 degree day) it did go on more granular than usual - I wonder if it could be knackered even.

 

All good stuff, so thanks for the input.

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Hi Andy,

 

in terms of pre wash I only rinsed and snow foam'd. The car was pretty clean already so didn't use anything first. I do use a combined de Ox and TSR solutions after claybar for any micro particles.

 

I have to admit with the results I have, I don't think collinite was the correct choice. I love the stuff and always have, but I think I should have gone the ceramic route.

 

I am a little worried now as to how much clear coat is left... I think I'll borrow a micrometer from someone.

If it's black, it won't be clear coated. Black is solid colour 202.

 

Toyota paint is very soft (or at least used to be), so you might be better off using spray sealants and a very gentle buff.

 

Gtechniq c2v3 is very good, and top up with autobrite project 64.

 

I had mine coated with Williams sealant, and it washes lovely now. I just top it off with a diluted mix of Williams as a detailer, or project 64

 

 

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If it's black, it won't be clear coated. Black is solid colour 202.

 

Toyota paint is very soft (or at least used to be), so you might be better off using spray sealants and a very gentle buff.

 

Gtechniq c2v3 is very good, and top up with autobrite project 64.

 

I had mine coated with Williams sealant, and it washes lovely now. I just top it off with a diluted mix of Williams as a detailer, or project 64

 

/QUOTE]

 

That's really useful info thank you. I will have a look into the products, and I have seen evidence that the paint is pretty soft. Interesting that it is a solid colour with no clearcoat though.

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That's really useful info thank you. I will have a look into the products, and I have seen evidence that the paint is pretty soft. Interesting that it is a solid colour with no clearcoat though.
Yes, white and black are both solid colour. All the others are clear coated [emoji106]

 

Maybe with the exception of yellow, I can't remember if that's solid or clear over base?

 

 

 

 

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I had the same issue with my black tt6. No matter how careful i was it always ended up with very minor scratches and swirlmarks after i washed it.

Had it ceramic coated which didn't make a great deal of difference tbh - don't waste your money if you're thinking of doing it. Annoyed me that much that i sold it :D

My quicksilver one is the exact opposite, i could wash it with a brillo and it'd still look great:)

Edited by Marty (see edit history)
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