Supra-love Posted July 15, 2019 Share Posted July 15, 2019 (edited) Looking for advice or recommendations on if or what I may need on top of my current list below. This is just for block and head etc, turbo and fuelling after All new ancillaries, from water pump, oil pump, seals, stem seals etc etc. Racing gates timing kit Manley pistons Manley tuff rods King race bearings Arp mains Ferret +1mm valves Dual valve springs Titanium retainers Seats Locks All machine work Balanced and polished oem crank billet main caps full set gsc stage 3 high lift camshafts This build is looking to achieve a comfortable reliable running 1000+ bhp 2JZGTE engine Edited July 15, 2019 by Supra-love (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Style Posted July 15, 2019 Share Posted July 15, 2019 I think they will come as standard with the Tuff rods but just make sure they have a set of ARP 625+ fasteners or similar as it looks like you'll be revving higher than stock? ARP 2000's won't like that for very long. Wrist pin on the pistons as well, some Manley's come with smaller ones as standard and offer an extreme version as an option that you should opt for. Some ARP head studs too Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Swampy442 Posted July 15, 2019 Share Posted July 15, 2019 Speak to the established builders like SRD or Whifbitz, see what they recommend. Can you get 1000 on standard displacement? Would you not need a stroker kit? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Noz Posted July 15, 2019 Share Posted July 15, 2019 JP only had bigger pistons and he had 1300whp I recall. I don't think a stroker is needed for 1khp. I Think it's a help for area under the curve but not a must. There are masses of posts on here about how people have done it. Interesting ones are people using un opened engine with a stock intake manifold. Head work makes it easier and cams are really needed. There are so many posts online and here. But if you aren't building it swamps is right and speak to your builder. Chris Wilson is also another name in the hat. Whifbitz sell some cool stuff, if your serious give Paul a ring and ask for a real general estimate to give you an idea. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Swampy442 Posted July 15, 2019 Share Posted July 15, 2019 1000hp on an unopened engine?! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ric Posted July 15, 2019 Share Posted July 15, 2019 1000hp on an unopened engine?! Well for 10 minutes at least. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Swampy442 Posted July 15, 2019 Share Posted July 15, 2019 well for 10 minutes at least. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Noz Posted July 16, 2019 Share Posted July 16, 2019 I only said people have done it lol I don't question their reliability! Some of the US guys reckon the run 1khp on an R154. Though I'm not so trusting in mine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
_Shane_ Posted July 16, 2019 Share Posted July 16, 2019 Few things you will need to add to your list OEM head gasket ATI damper Billet timing belt bracket PHR oil pump No need for billet main caps at that power or the 625+ bolts Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supra-love Posted July 16, 2019 Author Share Posted July 16, 2019 (edited) Yea will be adding oem head gasket set. With new stem seals etc. Already got billet tensioner and welded sprocket. Thanks, will look into dampener, and oil pump was going to be new oem I only opted to go for billet main caps for safety, and 625s for rev ranges. Polished balanced crank will be plenty good enough but what’s their limit? Edited July 16, 2019 by Supra-love (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Style Posted July 16, 2019 Share Posted July 16, 2019 Few things you will need to add to your list OEM head gasket ATI damper Billet timing belt bracket PHR oil pump No need for billet main caps at that power or the 625+ bolts Rod bolts have less to do with power and more rev range. A built head means it’ll probably be revving way past 7.5k rpm and 625’s will be a must Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
_Shane_ Posted July 16, 2019 Share Posted July 16, 2019 Rod bolts have less to do with power and more rev range. A built head means it’ll probably be revving way past 7.5k rpm and 625’s will be a must Have my own supra going for a built head and bottom end in the next few weeks, engine builder I spoke to said no need for these, the shops I purchased all my parts from (different shops) all said the same, no need unless going massive power well over 1000bhp Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Noz Posted July 16, 2019 Share Posted July 16, 2019 For the price of upgraded materials purely on bolts. Is it not worth doing anyway. If it's down to just a few quid, and there are varying opinions, surely easier just to change the bolts and be covered. Who you using Shane Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
_Shane_ Posted July 16, 2019 Share Posted July 16, 2019 @ Noz Mike Dean @ DeaneMsport is doing my build for me, local enough to me too here in Cork. Purchased all my stuff from Real Street. He well known over here for his builds, he did his brothers engine in his drift car, James Deane. Each to their own really, if you want to spend the extra cash on those parts then that is totally up to you, 625+ bolts are about 500 quid, the billet main caps are probably the same, another 500 quid, then the machine shop charges to do a line bore etc doesn't be long adding up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supra-love Posted July 16, 2019 Author Share Posted July 16, 2019 Real street recommended arp bolts and also recommend over 1000hp will need billet mains. Oem polished and balanced crank good for up to 1500hp Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Style Posted July 17, 2019 Share Posted July 17, 2019 (edited) @ Noz Mike Dean @ DeaneMsport is doing my build for me, local enough to me too here in Cork. Purchased all my stuff from Real Street. He well known over here for his builds, he did his brothers engine in his drift car, James Deane. Each to their own really, if you want to spend the extra cash on those parts then that is totally up to you, 625+ bolts are about 500 quid, the billet main caps are probably the same, another 500 quid, then the machine shop charges to do a line bore etc doesn't be long adding up. Sounds like you're talking about 625 head studs? Again, the need for 625 rod bolts are because of the higher rev limit. You could be making 800hp and need them if you're revving to 9 grand. Edited July 17, 2019 by Style (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
_Shane_ Posted July 17, 2019 Share Posted July 17, 2019 Ya sorry I was referring to the 625+ head studs I was also advised to go for thicker piston wrist pins Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Style Posted July 17, 2019 Share Posted July 17, 2019 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supra-love Posted July 17, 2019 Author Share Posted July 17, 2019 (edited) Ya sorry I was referring to the 625+ head studs I was also advised to go for thicker piston wrist pins These wrist rings mate? https://www.realstreetperformance.com/866-22mm-x-2-250-x-230-9310-steel-wrist-pin-je-pistons-straight-wall-chamfered-edge.html They also recommended these head bolts for me https://www.realstreetperformance.com/arp-main-stud-kit-toyota-supra-mkiv-2jzgte.html Edited July 17, 2019 by Supra-love (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supra-love Posted July 17, 2019 Author Share Posted July 17, 2019 (edited) My current list now looks like this. CP Pistons Toyota 86.5mm 10.0 9.1.1. Je Pistons .230" Wall 9310 2.250" Length .866" Width Wrist Pins. Brian Crower HD Heavy Duty BC625+ H Beam Rods. ACL Race Rod Bearing SET STD Size. ACL Race Main Bearing SET STD Size. ACL Thrust Washerz Real Street Performance Billet Steel Main Cap set. ARP Main Stud Kit. PHR Oil Squirter Block-Off (Delete) ARP Headstuds. OEM 2JZ GTE Supra Complete Engine Gasket Kit. Brian Crower Stage 3+ Cams 276 276. Ferrea Dual Valvesprings & Titanium Retainers Kit. Ferrea High Pressure Dual Valve Springs. Ferrea High Pressure Titanium Retainer. Ferrea 6mm Valve Locks Keepers. Ferrea Intake & Exhaust Valve Guides. Ferrea Exhaust Valve Guide STD. Ferrea Intake Valve Guide STD. GSC 6mm Valve Seal Kit. PHR Billet Adjustable Locking Cam Gear BLACK. Powerhouse Racing PHR Modified Oil Pump. ATI Super Damper Crank Pulley. Gates Serpentine Belt for ATI 918562 Harmonic Dampener. PHR Performance Thermostat 155F 68C. Oem water pump. Gates racing cam belt kit, with billet tensioner and welded sprocket Hopefully I’ve covered everything now Edited July 17, 2019 by Supra-love (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
_Shane_ Posted July 17, 2019 Share Posted July 17, 2019 You should delete these from your list lol no need for this, just looks like an expensive machined part at a stupid price PHR Oil Squirter Block-Off (Delete) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supra-love Posted July 17, 2019 Author Share Posted July 17, 2019 You should delete these from your list lol no need for this, just looks like an expensive machined part at a stupid price PHR Oil Squirter Block-Off (Delete) removing the factory oil squirters we increase oil pressure which can greatly benefit bearing life. On short run vehicles or motors with billet pistons, cooling effects from oil squirters are minimal, whereas bearing life becomes critical. $151 for the set. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
_Shane_ Posted July 17, 2019 Share Posted July 17, 2019 Chris Wilson commented on these a few years back ''Obviously the less oil is being lost past bearing clearances and through squirters and via oil pump wear on the rotors and housing, the higher the potential pressure. BUT given the flow of the stock pump is more than adequate to run the squirters AND allow as high an oil pressure as needed and more, (and *more* pressure is not usually any benefit), why lose the piston crown oil cooling? Seems someone thought "Let's CNC some cheap parts, sell them for a huge profit", *THEN* trying to think up a raison d'etre for them.'' Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supra-love Posted July 17, 2019 Author Share Posted July 17, 2019 Chris Wilson commented on these a few years back ''Obviously the less oil is being lost past bearing clearances and through squirters and via oil pump wear on the rotors and housing, the higher the potential pressure. BUT given the flow of the stock pump is more than adequate to run the squirters AND allow as high an oil pressure as needed and more, (and *more* pressure is not usually any benefit), why lose the piston crown oil cooling? Seems someone thought "Let's CNC some cheap parts, sell them for a huge profit", *THEN* trying to think up a raison d'etre for them.'' Perfect thanks for that mate! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Style Posted July 17, 2019 Share Posted July 17, 2019 What compression ratio are you thinking of running? Crappy fuel in the UK means you're kind of limited to 8.5 - 9.0:1 if want to run a good amount of boost. E85 / methanol etc. will obviously help with this but it all depends on how readily available that stuff is to you. 99 RON V-Power over here is like 93 octane in the states in case you're asking Real Street etc. for advice on the subject. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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