Fulcrum2000 Posted June 27, 2019 Share Posted June 27, 2019 Ok so as an update it turned out I didnt listen properly when the mechanic was talking (there's a surprise) and it was actually my Rear crank seal leaking, not the FMS, so after buying replacement parts which were wrong of course, we then bought a sleeve and new stronger seal to cover the groove but its still leaking. Its not much, a few drops a day, but has anyone had a rear crank seal leak and did you beat it? Because its caused by a small groove in the crank the only way I can think of is either another rebuild with a new crank if I can find one or using those oil leak treatments for the oil? Anyone ever tried those, they seem to have rave reviews but a bit wary tobe honest. Its wrecking my new paved drive! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
absz Posted June 27, 2019 Share Posted June 27, 2019 If you have a small groove in the crank were the seal is seated you can normally press the seal further in about 2mm to clear the groove,so sealing lip is on a non worn section. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fulcrum2000 Posted June 27, 2019 Author Share Posted June 27, 2019 We've tried. The full story is its had a rebuild and the only problem is the oil leak its since been back 5 times to the mechanic who rebuilt it and once to a different one, he's tried re-seating it several times and when this didnt work we sent for a sleeve to cover it and a larger seal which filled the entire space but it still leaks, I'm not sure what else I can try. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
absz Posted June 27, 2019 Share Posted June 27, 2019 Do you have any pictures of the Leak ? close up Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fulcrum2000 Posted June 27, 2019 Author Share Posted June 27, 2019 I cant without jacking etc but will if you feel it helps. But it's dead centre in line with the rear of the front wheels. I've seen the groove on the rear crank it's all the way round central on the metal and maybe 1mm deep if that helps Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
absz Posted June 27, 2019 Share Posted June 27, 2019 I cant without jacking etc but will if you feel it helps. But it's dead centre in line with the rear of the front wheels. I've seen the groove on the rear crank it's all the way round central on the metal and maybe 1mm deep if that helps Unfortunately it’s a tricky one to comment about without looking at the engine in person. But I would be measuring the distance off how far the seal is pushed in past the seal retainer to make sure it’s a true fitment.also make sure the seal Lip is still pointing inwards and not flipped out which can happen without using a seal fitting tool. Check crankshaft endfloat. And also make sure crankshaft is not distorted by measuring the flange end with a DTI gauge. Others options could be excessive blow-by In crankcase. These are basic checks for any mechanics so I’m sure it’s probably done? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
and1c Posted June 28, 2019 Share Posted June 28, 2019 I cant without jacking etc but will if you feel it helps. But it's dead centre in line with the rear of the front wheels. I've seen the groove on the rear crank it's all the way round central on the metal and maybe 1mm deep if that helps I would be wanting money back from this 'mechanic' and taking it to someone who knew how to check a crank before trying to rebuild the engine. There is a difference between a mechanic and a good engine builder from my experience, if it is a genuine Toyota seal, and its located correctly (fully in), as absz states, get the crank end float checked etc If I was you I would cut your losses and take it to someone who is known to be experienced with supras. It could save you (more) time and money in the long run. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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