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The mkiv Supra Owners Club

Air con kit


antno

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You'll need to buy in the condenser and drier as there is no point putting in second hand parts in hard to get to locations. Best place to get the Denso OE parts is from US parts suppliers, really its the only place as Denso Europe don't/won't distribute the parts here.

 

You have next to no hope in getting the pipes this side of first dibs on a scrapper that hasn't front ended. I've only seen one set come up for sale in probably 3 years. They are just pipes though so any decent fridge engineer should be able to fabricate functioning plumbing with service ports and a sight glass next to the radiator expansion bottle. R134a is on the phase out list so you may want to go for the replacement R1234yf. This would need a different compressor oil to the original ND8, same type being a PAG just that the new refrigerant has different solubility in the oil. So you'd need a thicker oil than the standard ISO46 the DENSO compressors come filled with. You'd probably need to step it up to an ISO 68 or possibly a ISO 100 but there is plenty of background reading you can do around that. Its a balance of what will work in the compressor to what will flow around the system so you wouldn't want to go too thick on the oil.

 

It won't be cheap even if you are doing all the fitting yourself. Be around £500 in parts alone even with a second hand compressor and clutch. That's why when people sell their cars with a/c not working - probably just needs a regas I always think, right. When you consider it's a high labour enterprise you are considering undertaking, meaning expensive parts added to expensive labour charge if you aren't doing it all yourself or working on best mates rates.

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Can you fix mine? Everything is there it just does not work

 

There is a simple check list you can run through, either on your own (with some cheap equipment) or by hiring a refrigeration engineer.

 

The main reason a/c units will stop working is because there is insufficient pressure to activate the compressor clutch. This is a saftey mechanism to ensure the a/c system never pulls a vacuum on the suction side of the compressor with all the problems that could lead to with sucking in air and moisture. You can buy a gauge set with port coupling off eBay for about £30 to check out the system pressure yourself. If its about 60 - 70psi then you have a good factory level charge in the system. If its less than that then there may not be sufficient refrigerant to maintain a working suction pressure. The compressor would normally start and quickly cut off as the suction pressure fell from 60psi to under 7psi. If you have no pressure at all then you have a leak somewhere and all your refrigerant has escaped.

 

If you have no gas pressure then you do need to have an engineer come and pull a vac on the system to confirm the leak. If its large enough you'll hear hissing and be able to track it down to a specific location/part. If its not audible then the engineer would normally introduce uv dye and pressurise the system and look with his uv light for where the dye is escaping. Normal leak points would be pipe unions or a holed condenser.

 

If you have pressure but its low then you probably just need to top it off with a service cylinder of refrigerant (200g usually) to the correct pressure. 14 - 20psi on the suction side (low pressure - blue port coupling) with the compressor running. If you have the correct pressure on standing and the compressor doesn't run then suspect a seized compressor or electric clutch fault.

 

After this process you'll know what if any new parts are needed to be able to order those from Keron. Otherwise it'll be just pure guess work.

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