Alonso Posted May 7, 2019 Share Posted May 7, 2019 I'm currently moving back to the OEM style, but keeping some aftermarket features. As first result, i'm currently working on a new gauge type - using the OEM digital clock assembly with some new home built internals based on a Arduino. A quick test run (no buttons, no sensors, test screen) The goal is to connect up to 5 analog sensors for boost, temps and pressure with this. Different screens and functions will be accessible by the OEM buttons. Including (auto) peaks, master alert and some other stuff. I'm currently completing this prototype and will use it during summer to confirm the usability and functionality of the used components. If everything works as expected, i'll produce some plug & play units with professional pcb's next winter. Just let me know if you have any feedback or ideas to improve my idea. Will possibly start an official group by post when i'm ready. There is no commercial goal behind - i'm working on this during rainy weekends and sleepless nights Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Noz Posted May 8, 2019 Share Posted May 8, 2019 Awesome! What lcd are you using. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mwilkinson Posted May 8, 2019 Share Posted May 8, 2019 Please do a facelift version too, with an analogue clock as the home screen. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mr.gill Posted May 8, 2019 Share Posted May 8, 2019 Liked your video and this retrofit is amazing!!! Can you please make me a beta tester or whatever you call people who become test mules, or something of that nature? Hehehe, [emoji482] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mwilkinson Posted May 8, 2019 Share Posted May 8, 2019 (edited) On a side note. Just a thought for you. I note you have the kit setup in a Euro spec clock, which included the external temp button. The bulk of the market, i.e. J-Spec cars, don't have this button. Therefore, building it to work on the lower three buttons only would be a smart marketing move as it will massively increase your potential sales base. Edited May 8, 2019 by mwilkinson (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alonso Posted May 8, 2019 Author Share Posted May 8, 2019 Thank you for the feedback guys! @Noz I'm currently using a 1.3" OLED black&white display. This one is fitting perfectly between the guides of the buttons without cutting anything on the clock assembly. The current display fits perfectly in the height, but not on the width. The shown version version also has a multicolor led close to the left side of the display to show alerts and warnings. But i see a lot of potential improvements in this topic.. @mwilkinson That would be super cool, i fully aggree. But to be honest, i've never had one of those in my hands. Will check if i can borrow one from a friend for the disassembly Good point about the "basic" non eu version. The top "temp" button is currently connected, but not used by the software today. So this should not be an issue. More painfull is the difference on the clock connector, they are also not the same. I have found a matching male connector for the EU model to power directly from the clock harness without cutting any wires. I will not be able to produce something similar for the other version. @mr.gil Cool, i'll remember that. Will come back to you if there is progress on a pre-production series Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alonso Posted September 24, 2020 Author Share Posted September 24, 2020 (edited) After "some" days i like to provide an update: I was driving a full season with my prototype. From the technical point of view, everything went fine. But as i was not happy with the display (not enough bright during daylight), i tested some alternatives - and i found a nice one. I went from the OLED to a cool retro LED display. I did also design & order new custom PCB's and i labeled the project to "Antigauge" :-) I'm currently completing the new software and will drive this baby again for some weeks by myself. Current specs: 6x analog inputs (4x 16bit, 2x 12 bit). Pre-wired for 2x temp, pressure, boost, dimmer and ambient temperature (eu-spec). But i'm ready to reconfigure all non-temp inputs to anything else. Real time clock, car battery powered (ultra low current) 1x RGBW Led for status (color concept: blue=cold, orange=warning, red=Alert, red/white flashing=Mordor) Green or red LED display by choice Plug & play (except the sensors), operated with the OEM buttons The current PCB for the EU-Spec (missing the connectors and led): I was able to buy a broken non EU-Spec gauge, so there is also a different PCB layout for those planned. And as there was a huge echo in the MK3-Community, there will also be a MK3 version as well in the future. But one step after each.. What i will modify for the final version: Enhance the PCB layout (position&type of the connectors) Adding a buzzer Improving the pushbutton contacts Prewire 2 more analog inputs, going 16bit for all analog inputs So guys, what do you think? Disappointed that the OLED has gone? Edited September 24, 2020 by Alonso (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bonus_2000 Posted September 24, 2020 Share Posted September 24, 2020 Impressive stuff, like the look of it. Could this be configured to read the output of a serial stream from a standalone ecu? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alonso Posted September 24, 2020 Author Share Posted September 24, 2020 Impressive stuff, like the look of it. Could this be configured to read the output of a serial stream from a standalone ecu? Good point. The serial interface of the chip is also wired to the programming connector, but not yet used. So it would be possible to connect and read any RS232 data by using a small TTL converter out of the box with some custom programming. I just see some issues by connecting with CAN-Bus to modern standalones - i do net expect that the used chip is enough fast/powerfull for handling this kind of complex data. But RS232 should be fine. What ECu are you using? Maybe i can find one for testing this idea Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Style Posted September 25, 2020 Share Posted September 25, 2020 I missed this the first time around. What a neat idea, would love one if you ever decide to build some for the public to buy I'm a facelift car as well, so an approach similar to what mwilkinson mentioned with a clock would be awesome! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alonso Posted September 25, 2020 Author Share Posted September 25, 2020 I'm not sure how do i want to proceed from the "commercial" point of view. But there will be a way to get one for everybody in a couple of months for a fair price And yeah, i'm also considering building somehow a round version für the facelift model when the first steps are sucessfully completed :-) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bonus_2000 Posted September 25, 2020 Share Posted September 25, 2020 Good point. The serial interface of the chip is also wired to the programming connector, but not yet used. So it would be possible to connect and read any RS232 data by using a small TTL converter out of the box with some custom programming. I just see some issues by connecting with CAN-Bus to modern standalones - i do net expect that the used chip is enough fast/powerfull for handling this kind of complex data. But RS232 should be fine. What ECu are you using? Maybe i can find one for testing this idea I'm running the AEM v1 Ecu, I believe the output from this Ecu is the most basic form of serial stream data from other posts and information I have come across in the past. The connector on the side is a basic rs232 port. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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