NA-T 420g Manual Supra (Engine Build)

[Nathanj1142]

Nice work bud. Make sure and coat it properly, give it a good 2k epoxy primer...base and 2k clear to. Followed by waxoyl. Best bang for buck

 

Cheers mate.

 

Coat the subframe? Could I just clear coat as is - I think the chrome/silver looks awesome would hate to cover it!

 

 

 

[evinX]

Cheers mate.

 

Coat the subframe? Could I just clear coat as is - I think the chrome/silver looks awesome would hate to cover it!

 

 

/QUOTE]

 

2k clear coat will provide some protection but will be broken down over time from salts and water. With the galvanising...2k epoxy and 2k clear thats 3 strong layers of protection the salts and water have to break down to start corrosion. Go for an aluminium base colour (looks like bare alloy) base wont provide any protection...just gives colour.

 

Bare metal needs a pure zinc or 2k epoxy to bite the metal and provide a proper bonding seal thats hard to penetrate, anything that comes in a can and air dry will not do the job besides waxoyl. Period. And waxoyl over bare metal is still risky.

[Nathanj1142]

Another update for you all!

 

I managed to get all the arms off - and all was left was the diff bushing. Wow. I initially tried doing what i had for the sub frame bushes, by hammering a chisel under and slowly knocking it out but it wasn't coming - i had to drill the rubber out the middle and then knock the centre race out - followed by crushing the outer race inwards using a chisel and finally prying it out with a crowbar.

I'm not even exaggerating when I say it took me and my mate 4 - 5 hours to get it out.

 

 

ARB is in a pretty bad state - rather than refreshing this one I've decided to opt for a White line adjustable ARB - due to it's powder coating and comes with new bushes.

 

 

My mate polished up one of the rear sub frame hangers, and since then have painted it with black hammerite.

 

 

In other news - I dropped the sub frame off at the local galvanising place on Friday, Premier Galvanising Hull - great customer service and it's ready to collect today! will be swinging by after work to get it so will update the thread with their quality of work.

 

On the Friday afternoon I also got chance to go to Sheffield and meet up with Blythmrk and get some low mileage suspension arms with the camber bolts - the only things missing were the top arms but mine aren't in that bad condition so no worries there. I also got the drop links and the two rear diff bushes - I need to find a bolt so I can use the secondary mounting point. I know it's not necessary on the NA diffs - but the state of my old one showed it might not have been enough and for future proofing it cant hurt.

 

 

I've painted these in smooth black hammerite - although not in bad condition I thought I may as well while I have the stuff and an extra layer of protection wont do any harm.

 

 

I also managed to drop the fuel tank over the weekend - and gave that a clean up - sorry I don't have any photos of the inside of the cover and the fuel tank before i cleaned them - but as you can imagine it wasn't the prettiest of sights.

 

 

What i assume to be the fuel line that stops you overflowing the tank is very corroded - so I brushed all the loose crap off and coated that in hammerite but will probably need to replace this at some point in the future.

 

I've also ordered new Toyota sub frame cushions/bushes and upper diff stoppers from Paul at TCB parts - next day delivery and very cheap prices, along with fantastic customer service so highly recommend going to him for any genuine parts - from what I could tell he had all suspension arms in stock for anyone doing the same as me.

 

That's about it for now... Will update the thread once I get the sub frame back and start stripping the old under seal off - wish me luck with that!

[Nathanj1142]

Lots has happened since my last post. I'm going to try and remember everything I've done but I've lost track due to moving units!

Really happy with this place - the last building was adequate but was cramped with not a lot of room to do anything.

 

 

Before we moved though - I got the bushes that I ordered from Paul, and also picked up my Galvanised sub-frame (Thanks DNK and Rider for the suggestion) from Premier Galvanising in Hull.

 

 

When I first picked it up, there was still some areas I weren't happy with, as shown.

 

 

I took it back and they apologised as it hadn't been through QC before I got it???

 

Anyways, their customer service is great and I'm sure it was a simple mistake as I'm a one off customer. This cost me £120, cheaper than Shot blast and Powder coat. I plan to cover this in a 2k Lacquer as I'm going to rock the shiny look! According to Rider, this should be the 2nd Galved Supra frame that we know of.

 

 

Moving the supra to it's new home was the worst thing I've ever had to do. CRINGE ALERT!

 

As there was no rear chassis on the car, and with the new unit only about 20 metres across the yard, we decided to drop the car onto a crawler - my mind-set being "there's no fuel tank or rear sub frame it wont weigh much"... wrong!

 

 

I put the front wheels on, and 4 of us managed to get the car out of the door - where one of the crawler wheels collapsed, which left me in the middle of the only route to the other units in the compound where there were other tenants waiting to get past.

 

We had to jack the car up on the rear towing point, and turn the car around so it was effectively reversing, then 3 of us pushed while my mate pulled the jack. what he failed to tell me was how often the car almost slipped off on the gravel floor. Unfortunately I was forced to rush and would have done it in much smaller increments.. i.e. placing wood under the chassis legs every few metres to reduce the impact incase it dropped.

 

 

There's also a nice big ramp coming up to the unit, so we had to get help from another 2 people to get it up.

 

Anyways we're in, and I will never move this car again in the same way.

 

I've started to strip off the old under-seal under the car. Its not that bad, but the spot welds are starting to go.

 

 

I also removed the bumper and crash bar - as the crash bar could do with a fresh coat of paint. I wish I removed this before and would have got this galv dipped too.

 

I've painted both the wheel hubs, one side of the diff, and upper arms in the same black hammerite.

 

 

thanks to rider, I've also got the right taps and tapped one of the diff mounts on the sub-frame already.

 

Before:

 

After:

 

Got some more bits to order from Paul, like the lower arm ball join nut and sub-frame stopper plates.

 

That's all for now - haven't really had the time to take many photos this time around with the whole move.

 

Also thought I'd include this pic of my mates e36. He swung by to see the unit the other day.

Edited November 29, 2019 by Nathanj1142 (see edit history)

[Dnk]

They need to be double or tripple dipped to get them looking perfect

[Nathanj1142]

This one has been done 3 time’s now I believe I paid for 2 dips and then was dipped again once I took it back

[Dnk]

This one has been done 3 time’s now I believe I paid for 2 dips and then was dipped again once I took it back

 

Did they dip in Sulphuric acid then zinc dip, my chassis looked dire after the first dip, last photo is dip 3

[Nathanj1142]

Did they dip in Sulphuric acid then zinc dip, my chassis looked dire after the first dip, last photo is dip 3

 

Yep - 1 dip in acid 1 dip in galv then repeat process.

 

I took it back and was done again - dip in acid dip in galv

 

 

 

[griffsplace]

You seem to be doing what i did last/this year, though i didnt galvanise, just cleaned it up and POR-15 painted, stonechipped and rubber coated most body work. I used strongflex poly bushes on all the rear end. Have a good look over your fuel pipes, I got it all back together and then noticed one had got damaged a bit where it was already badly corroded, and leaked. Sods law was it was above the subframe so had to drop it again. Also put in all new brake hoses. Good luck, took me so long mine never got back on the road this year.

[Nathanj1142]

You seem to be doing what i did last/this year, though i didnt galvanise, just cleaned it up and POR-15 painted, stonechipped and rubber coated most body work. I used strongflex poly bushes on all the rear end. Have a good look over your fuel pipes, I got it all back together and then noticed one had got damaged a bit where it was already badly corroded, and leaked. Sods law was it was above the subframe so had to drop it again. Also put in all new brake hoses. Good luck, took me so long mine never got back on the road this year.

 

I was going to leave the pipes in place but will have a look over now youve said that! The fuel tanks out so shouldn’t be too hard. Going braided brake lines between hard piping to calliper.

 

 

 

[Nathanj1142]

After tapping the first two diff mount holes, i started grinding the wheel well to remove the old sealer that was in there. This wasn't exactly necessary, but I got a bit carried away while doing the underside and i guess I could justify it as i am checking for rust - anyways progress is slow in here and honestly spent hours so far getting it 3/4 done. I also managed to get some more of the underside's old under-seal removed.

 

Some rusty spots hidden by the under-seal - perfect explanation as to why I'm removing everything.

 

Dropped the fuel & brake lines as mentioned in the above comments - no visible corrosion and also needed to so i could continue grinding.

 

Rear brake callipers also been removed. Will need to replace some of the boots and whatnot on them as they're looking a little rough. I have the IS400 front brake upgrade so maybe an opportunity to upgrade the rear to UK spec? (no photos)

 

The rear bash bar needs a fresh coat of paint. Unsure whether I'm going to get this powder coated - but i wish i knew what state it was going to be in and i could have got it galv dipped with the subframe. I may just paint this with the hammerite i already have to save money. I believe this was painted in 2017 - so hasn't held up too well.

 

I went to Industrial Paint Supply in Hull after trying to find something to coat the subframe in. I didn't want to paint it at all, i wanted to retain the galv finish, and finding a clear coat that will stick to new galv is near on impossible. Luckily, the guys at IPS had a clear adhesion primer from rustoleum and clear topcoat... perfect!

 

The setup for painting wasn't exactly the best, but i worked with it as it didn't need to be perfect.

 

Unfortunately, it dulled the chrome effect but gave off a very nice blue shimmer, due to the primer, and looks less like 'tin-foil' as kindly pointed out by the other lads in the unit...

 

Got some stance parts air cups from driftworks on their black friday sale! I don't have many photos of this as i was actually filming the whole thing, and plan to upload to youtube as there aren't many full tutorials which include routing the airlines and wiring setup for this kit.

 

Here are a few pics of the install (a possible speaker solution too):

 

I've removed all the underseal where the fuel tank sits too... Since then have stripped back most of the paint so that it is bare metal so the new paint will stick better. (no photos)

 

And finally for this update; i spent 5 hours installing one of the diff mounts. I tried tightening the bolts into the diff but that just pulled the rubber in. I tried using a bolt through the mounting holes but that didn't work so great as the holes aren't centric. I tried tightening in a vice. I tried a hammer. The actual solution ended up being all 3 in an alternating fashion. Tighten the bolt, tighten the vice, give it a whack with the hammer.

 

May try and find a shop with a big enough press for the other diff mount and the two subframe mounts...

 

Heres a pic of a gokart frame one of the guys picked up for £50... welded an old bucket seat on it can't wait for this thing to be done will be awesome lol.

Edited December 19, 2019 by Nathanj1142
Stanceparts Aircups Installed! (see edit history)

[rider]

May try and find a shop with a big enough press for the other diff mount and the two subframe mounts...

 

With the diff mount I found that a few hours in the freezer made all the difference. It went from no way they were going in to then being susceptible to be whacked in with a sledgehammer. It only took about 15 hits (solid taps rather than a full swing) to drive home fresh out of the freezer. The front mounts are split and slide in like hot butter by comparison.

[Nathanj1142]

With the diff mount I found that a few hours in the freezer made all the difference. It went from no way they were going in to then being susceptible to be whacked in with a sledgehammer. It only took about 15 hits (solid taps rather than a full swing) to drive home fresh out of the freezer. The front mounts are split and slide in like hot butter by comparison.

 

Hey Rider,

 

How did you get the front mounts in? I’ve tried hitting with a hammer but just bounces. Trying to find some long threaded bar so I can tighten it in using the old subframe mounts as a press

[Nathanj1142]

Another update to the restoration.

 

I've been fairly slow keeping ontop of recording what i'm doing, mainly because its very dry content. Here are a couple of updates to keep the thread going before i can post some better content.

 

I managed to tap the other holes on the subframe, thanks again rider for the thread pithces, and painted the small subframe bush retainers in hammerite grey. I also gave the small cup that sits behind the rear subframe crade a coat of this paint too.

 

Getting the front bushings in was hard, but in comparison to the diff bushings it wasnt too bad. I used a random long bolt, various spacers, a nut and 2 plates. The plates were placed on the bottom side of the subframe and top of the bushing, then using an impact, rattle the thing as much as possible until it started to go in. Then using a socket extender and a lump hammer i tapped the outer race so it slid in. The other side of the race wouldnt pop out this way as was held in by the bolt.

 

 

Using Riders advice, again, i melted the zinc out of the rear cradle mount threads using a blow torch and a wire brush. The excess zinc just flaked off but left the galv layer still intact. This is because the zinc/steel compound melts at 200C hotter than zinc by itself.

 

 

 

Here is a pic of the subframe all mocked up. I've lost the lower arm and toe arm nuts, therefore ordering replacements from TCB, alongside subframe mounting cups and an extra bolt for the third diff mount (which bushing i am dreading to put in). Paul's been a lifesaver sourcing the random nuts and bolts from toyota.

 

 

When I bought the supra, i was told the right wingmirror glass motor never worked. The car also has the power fold mirror switch on the dash, but the function doesnt work, so i decided to investigate after getting fed up with another extended session of wirewheeling under the car.

 

Turns out, my drivers side mirror wasn't even plugged in, infact, the cable was ziptied to the window regulator loom.

 

I found that the connector i have on my loom is different to the one on the mirror, this means its been replaced at some point, most likely after snapping the shaft of the original power fold mirror. Trying to find a replacement at the moment as i'd like both mirror adjustment and power folding capability. I checked if the pins were getting power using a multimeter, and i can confirm the switch does send a signal to the pins, so either the system needs both mirrors to be connected to work or the left motor is knackered too. Im going to take the left mirror apart (which is a power fold mirror) and see if i can find whats wrong with it.

[Scooter]

Nathan I have some bits I used to get a diff bush in once (the single central hole one I think you need to do) I got Metal plates and a threaded rod and special bearing nut.....I'll try and fish them out and take some pics. If I find them all I could send then up to you, I did it with everything in situ on the car, should be easier for you hopefully! (especially with Riders freezer advice)

[Nathanj1142]

Nathan I have some bits I used to get a diff bush in once (the single central hole one I think you need to do) I got Metal plates and a threaded rod and special bearing nut.....I'll try and fish them out and take some pics. If I find them all I could send then up to you, I did it with everything in situ on the car, should be easier for you hopefully! (especially with Riders freezer advice)

 

Ah fantastic Scooter, let me know how you get on! I may have to take that off your hands

 

Cheers,

Nathan

[Scooter]

It's not where I first thought it was.....couple of more places to check

[Scooter]

Found it today if you've not done the mount yet?

[Nathanj1142]

Found it today if you've not done the mount yet?

 

Hey scooter, bush is in the freezer as we speak lol. Send me a PM with your number and I’ll WhatsApp you! I really appreciate it.

 

Cheers!

[Nathanj1142]

Hello, i got so caught up with work and then covid lockdown that i just wanted to get the car sorted and ready for what summer we might have. I just haven't had the time or effort to document it all so here's what's gone on...

 

continuing on from where i left off… i stripped down the wing mirror motor mechanism to find a load of dried up white grease, so i cleaned everything down and re-greased the lot, and tried to get it working again however i found, like most people, it was too far gone to warrant trying any harder to get it working, but a valuable experience disassembling and seeing how everything worked.

 

 

With the subframe ready and suspension arms given a fresh coat of hammerite, i started to re-assemble the lot. i found the ball joints to be a pain… again. Scuffed up the taper with sandpaper and a bit of heat with a BFH seemed to do the job okay.

 

 

Cheers for the bushing press device scooter, worked a treat with some icy bushings and my impact.

 

back together... ish

 

 

Moving onto the car, i wire wheeled everything, as previously explained which took months. I never want to have to do this again and tbf i don't think it was worth it looking back now, however, everything was treated with hammerite rust converter in the seams, with tiger seal in all of them, followed by POR 15 3 stage rust prevention kit. Cleaner degreaser, metal etch prep, then 3 layers of semi-gloss POR15 paint. The entire rear end received this treatment, along with the sills. Any recesses including the sills were filled with Dinitrol cavity wax.

 

 

 

 

 

Subframe back in with the fuel tank and a Whiteline ARB. (photos aren't great i apologise)

 

 

Next up, new front bumper! We installed these fasteners into the front top mount and i picked up some new bumper clamps for the fender mounts from toyota.

 

 

Nice custom acrylic badge to replace the vinyl sticker that was on mine.

 

 

At this point the car was done. Driving. MOT, tax and insurance sorted.

 

Drove it to the local tyre place and got a 4 wheel alignment, no photos of the before and after results however they were significantly out.

 

Fresh lick of paint on the bumper and she's done, for now.

 

 

I've skipped so much in this update, however, i have forgotten half the stuff I've done and this is a summary of everything I've achieved in the past few months while not keeping the thread updated.

 

I shall be adding a new purchase to this thread very soon! NA-T???

Edited January 14, 2021 by Nathanj1142 (see edit history)

[Dan8]

Great work that mate It looks like you have put a lot of time and effort into it her and is looking great

Looking forward to the next chapter once you sourced all your bits for your NA-T mate

[Noz]

The work underneath definitely worth it!

[Nathanj1142]

Great work that mate It looks like you have put a lot of time and effort into it her and is looking great

Looking forward to the next chapter once you sourced all your bits for your NA-T mate

 

The work underneath definitely worth it!

 

Cheers guys!

[Noz]

GTE pistons?

[Hammer]

Nice work, well done.