NA-T 420g Manual Supra (Engine Build)

[Nathanj1142]

Resolved and running

 

So the connector arrived and got a friend round who knows his wiring. He had a look at the connector on the loom, and noticed the insulation for the cables were pinched in the pins, therefore causing a weakpoint in the cable and it had resulted in all the cables corroding.

The ground wire, as explained in previous post, was completley disconnected, likely causing the car to shut off as it cannot read/adjust to the dizzy's position.

 

 

We snipped the connector off, and unwound some electrical tape and noticed that the loom had been extended a number of times, which could cause further complications down the line if theres a dodgy connection under the insulation.

 

 

Cutting the extention off, we then continued to repin the new plug.

 

 

Plug was reinstalled, with battery disconnected and EFI relay unplugged to reset the EML codes.

 

Car now runs as before, and attended the East Yorkshire Thoroughbred Car Club meet later on the night.

 

 

Need to repair and respray the bumper, speed bumps are not my friend anymore

[Nathanj1142]

Okay so I've never actually tried fibreglass repair before - so this was again new to me.

 

as you can see, the damage was pretty extensive on my splitter, and bumper. This was due to speed bumps, steep driveways, and bumps on our beautiful British roads.

 

 

 

 

 

Started by layering 2 layers of fibreglass matting on the back of the bumper, and one on the front to add rigidity and fill the big gaps.

 

 

 

pretty ugly if you ask me...

 

 

Sanded down the area so it was to a rough shape

 

 

I then used p.40 filler to build the lip back up

 

 

p.38 filler to fill the gaps and finish the profile

 

 

Put the bumper back on after smoothing so i could drive in the lovely weather on Sunday and bank holiday Monday.

 

 

going to finish sanding the whole thing and get it resprayed.

 

I will also be bringing the car up a few mm just so i can clear those few pesky speedbumps that i keep catching

Edited August 28, 2019 by Nathanj1142 (see edit history)

[Nathanj1142]

In addition to the bumper repair, a friend used a headlight restoration kit to buff the outside of the lenses. By the looks of it, they will need pulling apart and the inserts respraying, but there was still an improvement.

 

 

 

Just pulled off my drivers side door card as i feel like the speakers in my car lack depth. Any idea how you can wire in an amp to boost the power? I noticed there were some decent pioneer ones in there - so i moved to the back and found the original speakers in there! Passenger side rear doesn't work - so will need to get a new one. No pictures to post however I've found a water leak from my boot seal so will need to figure out where the leak is and possibly order a new seal. It's started raining so had to evacuate

 

Thats all for now

Edited August 28, 2019 by Nathanj1142 (see edit history)

[Noz]

Lights look loads better mate.

 

G3. Autoglym resin. Poor boy black hole and some wax is the way I would recommend.

 

Get some cheap foam pads and a drill attachment.

 

You'll be surprised the improvement.

[Nathanj1142]

Lights look loads better mate.

 

G3. Autoglym resin. Poor boy black hole and some wax is the way I would recommend.

 

Get some cheap foam pads and a drill attachment.

 

You'll be surprised the improvement.

 

Cheers Noz,

 

Will give it a try next time I come round to doing it.

 

 

 

[Nathanj1142]

Haven't updated this for a while: so here's what I've been up to since the last post

 

Picoto kindly gave me a new AUX belt after seeing the state of my old one, so I got that fitted and was a lot easier than I thought. I had a couple friends help me.

 

I took the door card off as part of me wanting to upgrade the speakers, and snapped a few of these clips. Does anyone know where i could find some?

In addition to this, i keep snapping the white trim clips behind all the plastic stuff so again any help on what size/where to buy them will help me

 

This doesn't really need much comment, except from the fact its RICE, but they were cheap and couldn't help myself after nostalgic need for speed memories.

 

I also took the side pods off around my rear number plate, and this stuff was a b*stard to get off, but hairdryer and my nails seemed to get it off.

 

Now onto some fun stuff - I started making a boot build to install some new speakers in, and possibly an air can for a air cup kit I'm interested in.

The frame is just nailed together for now, but plan on screwing it when I've got the orientation right. The top cover is ply.

 

I also cracked my bumper (again) and decided it was probably best to get a new one, as they aren't too expensive, so i went with G.R.A.M.S again, and it

arrived damaged!! Been in contact with them and they're sorting it out for me so can't really complain! What do you expect from fiberglass.

 

Finally, I ordered some floor mats from Logo Car Mats. They were about £35, and the quality are fairly decent and fit really well, however

the logo is sort of rushed and cut out of some fabric and sown on, but doesn't look too bad regardless.

If anyone knows if there is some form of retention clip to go over the small lip the driver's car mat is held in place by I'd appreciate a part no/ link

 

 

Weather has been atrocious over the past few days - boot has leaked so there's a swimming pool and the usual rust has started around the bottom of the glass. Looking at a storage unit with some friends so want to get that sorted sooner rather than later. if it doesnt materialise i'll be building a car port on the side of the house.

Edited October 2, 2019 by Nathanj1142 (see edit history)

[Noz]

Look forward to seeing how the boot setup turns out mate. I've no rear seats or boot. So keen to see how you get on.

[Nathanj1142]

Look forward to seeing how the boot setup turns out mate. I've no rear seats or boot. So keen to see how you get on.

 

I believe you was at a wedding not that long ago with my mum Noz!!

 

Haven’t made much progress from here but should hopefully end up okay!

[Noz]

Hello lad!

 

Yes lol but you made it sound like we went together LOL

 

Incredibly spooky how I was commenting on your post!

 

Hope you heard good things mate! Sadly didn't take the car it was still being tuned at that weekend. Was so gutted couldn't take it.

[Nathanj1142]

Hello lad!

 

Yes lol but you made it sound like we went together LOL

 

Incredibly spooky how I was commenting on your post!

 

Hope you heard good things mate! Sadly didn't take the car it was still being tuned at that weekend. Was so gutted couldn't take it.

 

Only just read it back haha!

 

Is rather strange isn’t it! Ah well it’s winter months now - roads aren’t the best as it is.

Edited October 11, 2019 by Nathanj1142 (see edit history)

[Nathanj1142]

I finally got a storage unit sorted with a few friends - and decided I’m going to use this winter to sort the underside of the supra. I have began to pull parts off ready to be shot blasted and powder coated to both look nice and prolong the life of the car - all while learning more about how it’s put together. Again - I’ve never worked on a ‘classic’ before so this is all new to me so going steady and marking up all bolts that come off and keeping them in bags so that I know where everything goes. I’ve also taken plenty of photos to share on here and for future reference.

 

 

Here are some photos showcasing the state it’s in at the minute - but as you can see there are some noticeable rust areas and the under seal (that was done in 2017) is already coming off in some places (don’t have photo to show)!!

 

 

 

There’s also some damage to drivers side sill - so I plan on pulling this dent out using welding rods and tac welding. (Photo doesn’t show but just a big dent further down) (photo shows rear arch side surface rust)

 

 

There’s also some surface rust inside the small holes in the sill - where the rubber grommet sits - not sure how to tackle this so any suggestions welcome.

 

 

Other than that - the sills are in really good nick - except they’re flattened where the pinch is due to common incorrect jacking and starting to rust

 

 

Also - the wiring is pretty poor - the plan is to na-t in spring (if insurance permits) - but if the front subframe is coming off the engine might aswell be out then - which means engine bay paint (199 silver) and some time to make the wires all neat

 

 

Today I had to grind the ARB drop link bolts off as they kept slipping when trying to get the nut off and couldn’t get a grip on the other side. Just looked on whiftbitz and had a heart attack at the price

 

Let me know if you want me to keep posting everything I’m doing on here - don’t want to clog up the thread with pointless bits!!

 

Thanks

Edited October 13, 2019 by Nathanj1142 (see edit history)

[Annabella]

I finally got a storage unit sorted with a few friends - and decided I’m going to use this winter to sort the underside of the supra. I have began to pull parts off ready to be shot blasted and powder coated to both look nice and prolong the life of the car - all while learning more about how it’s put together. Again - I’ve never worked on a ‘classic’ before so this is all new to me so going steady and marking up all bolts that come off and keeping them in bags so that I know where everything goes. I’ve also taken plenty of photos to share on here and for future reference.

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]233566[/ATTACH]

 

Here are some photos showcasing the state it’s in at the minute - but as you can see there are some noticeable rust areas and the under seal (that was done in 2017) is already coming off in some places (don’t have photo to show)!!

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]233567[/ATTACH]

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]233569[/ATTACH]

 

There’s also some damage to drivers side sill - so I plan on pulling this dent out using welding rods and tac welding. (Photo doesn’t show but just a big dent further down) (photo shows rear arch side surface rust)

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]233568[/ATTACH]

 

There’s also some surface rust inside the small holes in the sill - where the rubber grommet sits - not sure how to tackle this so any suggestions welcome.

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]233570[/ATTACH]

 

Other than that - the sills are in really good nick - except they’re flattened where the pinch is due to common incorrect jacking and starting to rust

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]233571[/ATTACH]

 

Also - the wiring is pretty poor - the plan is to na-t in spring (if insurance permits) - but if the front subframe is coming off the engine might aswell be out then - which means engine bay paint (199 silver) and some time to make the wires all neat

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]233572[/ATTACH]

 

Today I had to grind the ARB drop link bolts off as they kept slipping when trying to get the nut off and couldn’t get a grip on the other side. Just looked on whiftbitz and had a heart attack at the price

 

Let me know if you want me to keep posting everything I’m doing on here - don’t want to clog up the thread with pointless bits!!

 

Thanks

 

Post away, no problems here.

[Noz]

Not enough photos ! :-)

[Nathanj1142]

Will try remember to take plenty.

 

Think the plan has changed to drop the entire rear subframe together as it appears it might be easier and much quicker than trying to take rear assy apart bit by bit

[Noz]

Yea that's what I've been advised to do as well mate.

[Nathanj1142]

Yea that's what I've been advised to do as well mate.

 

Any links to a thread with pics would be appreciated- can’t work the search bar still!

 

Cheers

 

 

 

[Nathanj1142]

Hello!

 

Just thought I'd update the thread with the rust problem I noted in the last post, not as bad as some but still not what I like to see. Can also see the bent sill (yes I know I've got stands on it but I was following the TSRM.

There is a slight hole that I've noticed since viewing this photo again, not sure whether it's a relief hole and the photo makes it look wrong - but something I need to check when I get under the car again.

 

Moving on...

 

The ARB has already been removed, not sure if I mentioned in last post that I had to grind off the drop links, but yeah that happened. Could have been avoided if I dropped the sub-frame first...

The Rear struts have come out.

The brake callipers have also been ziptied out the way.

 

Having trouble removing the driveshafts off the diff, jammed a ratchet in one of the bolts on the other side to stop the shafts spinning and used a breaker to loosen off the 6 bolts.

After that, I used a crowbar to try and pry them off - however - I think the wrong part has come off as CV joint grease oozed out and could see the bearing... Will need to heat up the other lip (closer to the diff) and try get a chisel in there as not really sure what else I can do (hints welcome).

 

New bumper that was damaged in transit has also been repaired by my mate at his body shop, expenses covered by GRAMS, so no fault there with customer service.

The unit will be split in half soon so my mate's starlet can be sprayed, so bumper will be done at the same time.

 

Last but not least, I've started undoing some of the shoddy electrical tape in the engine bay, and labelled up each connector and corresponding component using the TSRM Wiring Diagrams. Each component placed in a bag with bolts ready to get spruced up. Only the Ignitor and ABS relay have been taken off so far as don't want to be distracted from the main goal at the minute which is the rear sub frame.

[Nathanj1142]

Good news, the rear sub frame is now out. I bypassed taking the diff out after the driveshaft troubles, so dropped the whole thing and it went much better than I thought it would.

 

I had some trouble figuring out how to get the handbrake cables undone, and then realised you can just pull the main wire coming from handle in the cabin, off the cradle, and then pull the cable mounts on the chassis with a bit of force.

 

The ABS wires were unplugged from behind the back seats, and the rubber grommet in the boot was popped out with the wires.

 

I had already removed the rear sway bar by this point, so didn't need to worry about that.

 

The prop shaft was stuck on to the diff, and rather than wasting time trying to get it off i removed the shield protecting the CV joint, and undid that.

 

as the car was backed up against a wall, we had to remove the sub frame out the side of the car rather than the back. So, the jack was on the diff, and I undid the two front bolts with ease, and then the 8 smaller bolts on the back side.

 

My friend was under the car making sure it didn't tip off, and as I lowered the jack the sub frame came from the car easily.

 

We then had to shimmy the prop shaft that I left on around the axel stand, so it wasn't knocked out from under the car, and with a bit of finesse it's now out.

 

All I've done, is remove the two upper wishbones so far, but struggling to get the wheel side off, as it seems seized.

 

Here's a pic of my leaky driveshaft - going to have to re-pack this when it goes back on.

 

The other night i managed to mess around with some pliers and start straightening the front sill, and it's turned out alright. I'll be welding some box section on the front and back as a jacking point so this never happens again. As you can see, its pretty rusty, so I'm hoping its just surface stuff when I brush all the old undercoating off - it was also very flaky!

 

Next jobs; strip down the rear sub frame, get all the bushes out (lord held me) and get all that sent off for shot blasting + powder coating, remove fuel tank, wire wheel the entire underside back section of the car, red oxide, under seal, poly bushes, clean up bolts, then pray it all goes back together!

 

I've also just got some facelift tail lights off the forums, as the custom ones I have at the minute are starting to fog up and I'm going off the look a bit. May sell soon, but not sure yet.

 

Also got these custom laser cut acrylic logo's, didn't cost me anything but the guy who made me them can make anything you want, so let me know if anyone wants anything.

 

Stay Tuned!!

Edited October 29, 2019 by Nathanj1142 (see edit history)

[Dnk]

Not sure if its the way to go but couldn't you do like i did to my Range Rover chassis

and have the sub frame acid stripped then hot dipped in zinc before painting/powder coating it ?

[Nathanj1142]

Not sure if its the way to go but couldn't you do like i did to my Range Rover chassis and have the sub frame acid stripped

then hot dipped in zinc before painting/powder coating it ?

 

I wasn’t sure on the cost of this - but I did see a thread on here discussing it. How much did it cost you?

 

Thanks

 

 

 

[Dnk]

My chassis was approx £500

[nolizma]

Good work! Keep it up! I like the unit too.

[Nathanj1142]

My chassis was approx £500

 

Nowhere local to me that will do this called a few places and they said they don't do it on 'aged metal', they were more commercial based applications though.

 

Got a quote for £200 for shot blast and powder coat so that isn't too bad.

 

- - - Updated - - -

 

Good work! Keep it up! I like the unit too.

 

 

Cheers mate! it's been a god send actually. Using it a lot more than i expected.

[Nathanj1142]

Hello again, another update for the thread. I've managed to make a lot of progress since my last post.

 

I removed the rear sub frame mounts, and the bushes appear to be in good condition, therefore I shall be either shot blasting or wire wheeling these and repainting the outer surface.

 

Diff mounts Off...

 

Upper arms off...

 

Now this is where I had a shocker - I basically pulled the entire driveshaft spline out the diff along with the coupling. can see the discussion here: http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?355152-Help!-Drive-shaft-spline-popped-out-of-diff

 

I just used a mallet and a light tap and it popped back in. the retention clip was still in good condition.

 

The diff and shafts are now out - although I will need to replace these top caps. I've been informed the bushes cant be replaced with OEM in the diff - so i think i'll keep these ones in and change these caps (if I can find any).

 

The lower arm ball joints were removed from the Hub - that's them out the way now. (NOTE: I AM MISSING A LOWER ARM ON THIS PHOTO, EXPLANATION FOLLOWS)

 

I also started to bend the other side's sills out. These are a lot worse than the other side.

 

The sub frame bushes were actually satisfying to remove. I got a chisel under the metal lip and managed to get it out about 20mm, then flipped the frame over and hit the lip with the chisel.

 

And so the nightmare begins. The lower arm bolts were seized to the inside of the bush races (ON ALL 4 LOWER ARMS!). I managed to get one off using an impact and over exerting the cam washer - but this was causing dents on the sub frame.

 

 

After this discussion: http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?355218-Best-way-to-remove-seized-arm-bolts-rear-subframe

 

I decided to grind them off... what a pig this turned out to be. I didn't have a very large diameter cutting disc so had to plan my cuts so I didn't damage anything.

 

I only got one out in about 2 hours. Slight damage to the elongated bolt hole. Should be able to hammer back into place.

 

I'll be taking a hacksaw with me down to the unit tonight as I really don't want to risk damaging the frame with the angle grinder.

 

In the seized bolts thread - there is a discussion about sub frame coating. I think I've decided to go with the galvanising route after discussion in this thread with Dunk, and the other thread. £70+VAT for acid bath and galvanising. Will most likely keep the galv look as I think its awesome

 

Will update again soon - most likely after the sub frame has been treated.

[evinX]

Nice work bud. Make sure and coat it properly, give it a good 2k epoxy primer...base and 2k clear to. Followed by waxoyl. Best bang for buck