pf85 Posted February 15, 2019 Share Posted February 15, 2019 I currently have a stock fuel rail and manifold with an AEM FPR. I am going to fit a new set of ID1050X injectors and a fuel rail. Has anyone went down this route before and if so what all is needed? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank Bullitt Posted February 15, 2019 Share Posted February 15, 2019 Why are you looking to increase the size? What is the current spec of the car? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pf85 Posted February 15, 2019 Author Share Posted February 15, 2019 Ive just had the engine fully rebuilt with Manley rods etc etc.. it currently has 550cc SARD injectors and I'm going for a full remap aiming for around 600bhp so I need bigger injectors. I hear good reports about the IDs. I've a HKS Fcon gold pro and the tuner is happy enough to map with the IDs Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank Bullitt Posted February 15, 2019 Share Posted February 15, 2019 Ive just had the engine fully rebuilt with Manley rods etc etc.. it currently has 550cc SARD injectors and I'm going for a full remap aiming for around 600bhp so I need bigger injectors. I hear good reports about the IDs. I've a HKS Fcon gold pro and the tuner is happy enough to map with the IDs When you say 600 are you talking crank or rear wheel power? Will you be looking to go beyond that power in the future? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pf85 Posted February 15, 2019 Author Share Posted February 15, 2019 I'm not too hung up on the actual numbers just whatever the tuner thinks is a safe limit on the day. I am running the auto box so id imagine around 600whp would be on its limits Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank Bullitt Posted February 15, 2019 Share Posted February 15, 2019 (edited) Thats great but I'm sure you will know there is a huge difference between crank and RWHP. 600 at the crank is roughly 480 at the wheels, 600 at the wheels is approx 730 at the crank. It's torque that will kill the box along with heat. Regular fluid changes, adequate cooling and your mapper controlling how the torque comes on will extend the life of the box considerably although not permanently. You should speak with DavidP (http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/member.php?25493-David-P) about his hybrid transmissions and join his transmission group (http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/group.php?groupid=57) for a good read. Beware though, he doesn't suffer fools gladly and speaks his mind. Nothing wrong with that at all (in fact it's quite refreshing) but it's not for everyone Back to the injectors, you don't mention what ECU you are running but modern ECUs can control the larger (than required) injectors quite well. Personally, I would look at an 850cc over a 1050cc if you aren't chasing numbers. Edited February 15, 2019 by Frank Bullitt (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pf85 Posted February 15, 2019 Author Share Posted February 15, 2019 Thanks I'll take a read through those pages there seems to be some really valuable information! I do have extra oil coolers fitted and the fluid has been changed very recently the car doesn't do many miles at all it is only taken out on dry days during the summer mostly. The ecu is a HKS F con gold pro. Apparently the 1050x can be tuned to run really well at idle and the mapper was confident with that combination but yes 850cc injectors would probably suffice. Do you have any recommendations? I'm not too well up on fuel rails, fitment etc but I'll be getting Marty/Colin from SSI to set it up Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mellonman Posted February 16, 2019 Share Posted February 16, 2019 a good link that still works http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?82952-Blitz-Twin-Turbo-Installation/page2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank Bullitt Posted February 16, 2019 Share Posted February 16, 2019 (edited) Thanks I'll take a read through those pages there seems to be some really valuable information! I do have extra oil coolers fitted and the fluid has been changed very recently the car doesn't do many miles at all it is only taken out on dry days during the summer mostly. The ecu is a HKS F con gold pro. Apparently the 1050x can be tuned to run really well at idle and the mapper was confident with that combination but yes 850cc injectors would probably suffice. Do you have any recommendations? I'm not too well up on fuel rails, fitment etc but I'll be getting Marty/Colin from SSI to set it up Okay, its an older ECU but will still be up to the job. Piggybacking the HKS to the car and letting the OEM ECU control everything with the gearbox is probably a wise decision, it tends to get expensive going standalone and mapping the whole lot. Injector wise, ASNU are a good injector and based on a Bosch unit so quite reliable. Fuel rail wise it depends on what you like the look of. Most are a generic design, all will do the same job so you just need to decide on a colour I haven't had any dealing with SSI but I have heard from people that have and Marty & Colin couldn't have been recommended highly enough. Have you decided on a mapper? Edited February 17, 2019 by Frank Bullitt (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pf85 Posted February 17, 2019 Author Share Posted February 17, 2019 (edited) To give some history or background into why I'm looking to change the injectors, I bought the car from another mkivsupra.net member back in 2013 with the following engine spec, all of which was carried out by a previous owner in Japan: HKS T04R single turbo Auto box (not sure of any modifications) but has extra oil coolers fitted AVCR boost controller Screamer pipe HKS 60mm GT wastegate HKS f-con vpro gold ECU K&N oversized air filter SARD bov SARD 540cc injectors SARD speed limiter cut G-Reddy 4 row intercooler Stock manifold Stock fuel pump Stock fuel rail At the highest setting it was running at 1.5 bar boost on 97 petrol but it ran into a problem where it melted one of the pistons. This also caused some oil to go back up through the turbo and render it useless as well So I left it with SSI and they carried out the following work: Full engine strip down and Bottom end rebuild ACL Race bearing set & Thrust washers Toyota oil pump & Seals Comp headgasket ARP head stud set Valve stem oil seals All new fluids JE Forged pistons, Rings & wrist pins Manley Forged Rods Gates blue Kevlar timing belt Removed fuel bypass damper New Garret Billet Turbo cart & gaskets AEM Fuel pressure regulator Walbro 455LPH Fuel pump Bypass fuel pump module Fuel injectors flow tested and cleaned So I've now run in the engine but I'm thinking it might be good to fit larger injectors to make sure there is enough overhead there. It seems like the autobox will be the biggest limiting factor when it comes to carrying out the mapping due to the limit of torque it can handle. I'm undecided what next steps I should take.. 1. Leave the current injectors and fuel rail in but get a full remap carried out from scratch 2. Fit ~850cc injectors, new fuel rail and a full remap 3. Fit ~1000cc injectors, new fuel rail and a full remap The mapper I'm going with are TDP.ie in Wicklow Ireland as they are they only approved HKS mapper in the country plus they have a very good reputation for mapping all sorts of cars. I've been chatting to them on the phone a few times and they seem to really know their stuff. I dont have any future plans to go beyond 500-600 RWHP mainly due to not wanting to have to change the gearbox but I want to ensure as much as possible that I dont run into issues again. The car is a road use car which only gets taken out in dry weather. A few of my mates are planning some trips out this year (New TT RS, RS5, Mountune 420 bhp Focus RS) all of which have newer tech, quicker gearboxes etc so I dont particularly fancy being left behind either.. Edited February 17, 2019 by pf85 Add response to who is going to map the car (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank Bullitt Posted February 17, 2019 Share Posted February 17, 2019 (edited) Irrespective of headroom I would get shot of those SARD injectors. Their spray pattern isn't great and there is much better tech the market now. The engine bay looks nice and an aftermarket fuel rail would set it off a treat Grab a PHR fuel rail - https://www.powerhouseracing.com/product/4625/phr-fuel-rail-for-2jzgte and some ASNU 800cc injectors - http://www.garagewhifbitz.co.uk/toyota/supra/fuel-parts/asnu-performance-injectors-2jzgte.html After melting the piston is there any reason you haven't considered fitting a water/meth injection kit to reduce temperatures? Yes, the autobox is the weakest link but it doesn't have to be. Have a chat with David he can tell you exactly what to do and what parts you need to use strengthen the box to hold the power. Your alternative is sending it to the US to be built by the guys at ATF Speed - https://www.atfspeed.com/A340E_c_218.html. The torque really needs to be bought on gradually by the mapper and I cannot stress that enough. Torque needs to be limited to something safe too. Adequate cooling (ideally 2x coolers) with an inline thermostat combined with regular filter/fluid changes will help extend the life considerably. You can use Lucas Oil Transmission Fix Stop Slip as a preventative measure and consider fitting a good quality gauge with an alarm like Stack (https://www.merlinmotorsport.co.uk/p/stack-pro-control-oil-temperature-gauge-st3509-10) so you can keep an eye on temperatures too. Every little helps. Edited February 17, 2019 by Frank Bullitt Links added. (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pf85 Posted February 17, 2019 Author Share Posted February 17, 2019 After melting the piston is there any reason you haven't considered fitting a water/meth injection kit to reduce temperatures? I never thought about meth.. I've done some quick reading up on it and it sounds ideal for keeping temps down and helping with ignition timing! It would definately keep the engine running smoother by reducing knock. Im now interested to know if there are many people on here running it and what their experiences have been! I'm booked in to get my mapping done on 19th March so I have a little time now beforehand to work out my options. I also like the idea of fitting a larger auto box sump to hold more oil.. this is something I might also do but it might be done after the mapping if I don't find the right part in time. I'll definately be adding Lucas Oil Transmission Fix either way! Thanks for the really useful advice so far!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank Bullitt Posted February 17, 2019 Share Posted February 17, 2019 No problem re the help There can be only positives when running WI providing it is set up correctly. A few manufacturers cars come with it already fitted from the factory now. Its good to run one on a turbocharged car regardless of power. I have an oldish Aquamist kit and I use a true (done on weight rather than volume) 50/50 mix using 99.95% Methanol. The Aquamist kits are good but they are becoming very complicated, unnecessarily so. Their pump appears to be the same generic pump all the WI companies use which is a shame as the original Aquamist pump looked great and worked very well. Mine is set up via a pressure switch on the intake to come on at 1bar. It feeds from the washer bottle in the engine bay and the mix doubles up as my screen wash. The car was mapped without the WI as I wanted it for a safety feature rather than for performance gains. Forgot to mention the sump, it is from a Lexus GS300. Part number 35106-30210. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pf85 Posted February 17, 2019 Author Share Posted February 17, 2019 (edited) It is a really good idea and shouldnt be too hard to install by the look of it. Yes I'd also want the WI moreso as a safety feature rather than a way to gain more power. I'm going to try get one installed before getting the mapping done. Can it be manually turned off when fitted or is it always on and only engaged when boost is built? Also if the WI runs out is it safe to continue to drive at a lower boost level or is that more down to if the mapping was done with the WI level built in to the map parameters? I've already spotted a couple of second hand sumps for sale that match. Is there any way of checking which one is alteady fitted to mine first on the very off chance it has been changed? Edited February 18, 2019 by pf85 Typo (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank Bullitt Posted February 18, 2019 Share Posted February 18, 2019 Yes, its an off/on switch which can be mounted anywhere. I wouldn't recommend having the car mapped with it on for the reasons you state and wanting it as a safety feature. You want to keep the install as simple as possible. Gearbox sumps look like the images below, credit goes to DavidP. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pf85 Posted February 18, 2019 Author Share Posted February 18, 2019 Having spoke again with the mapper regarding the WMI, he said adding it after the mapping would not be advised since it will be altering the AFRs etc. I do agree with his point and am going to go ahead and get it fitted beforehand. Have you your nozzles fitted close to the throttle body or a bit further away? I purchased the Lucas transmission fix which is around 750ml I think but on the instructions it states that it can be added without having to drain any of the existing fluid out, surely this would cause the level to be above max? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.