jackso11 Posted January 23, 2019 Share Posted January 23, 2019 My supra has been stood up for a few months and several body parts taken off. I need to get it out of the unit so have put it all back together and just drove it out....and the turbos do not engage at all. Idle is very smooth, but as soon as I touch the throttle it dies and the revs bounce as if hitting a cut of some kind almost like when you hit the rev limiter. No whooshing sound, no split hoses or blown/disconnected pipes I can find. TB opens as it should, but the turbos are not making any sound at all. The car drove fine when it came in, no bangs at all. Any ideas?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jackso11 Posted January 23, 2019 Author Share Posted January 23, 2019 Oh, I also have a read triangle on the dash for some reason but that can be from all kinds of things I know. I haven't connected the fuel flap door up to the latch and the dash says a door is open so that could be that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jackso11 Posted January 23, 2019 Author Share Posted January 23, 2019 Everything I read seems to say check hoses, intercooler pipes, and vacuum related things which I don't think there is a problem with. The only thing that has happened since its been stood is the battery died and has been charged a couple of times. Is there anything fuse related to check? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jackso11 Posted January 24, 2019 Author Share Posted January 24, 2019 Anyone? An easy question for you guys I am sure....should the car rev as normal with no boost if the turbos are not coming on and just not boost? Because my cars revs drop as soon as you put the pedal down as if the have hit a rev limiter Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jellybean Posted January 24, 2019 Share Posted January 24, 2019 To try give us some indication of the issue , I would check if any Error codes are logged on the ECU It reads like you have a big air leak http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?35920-How-To-Check-the-diagnostics-codes Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jackso11 Posted January 24, 2019 Author Share Posted January 24, 2019 hmm. I am getting no flashing at all, not even the regular flashing to say no codes. I have tried both diagnostic ports Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jackso11 Posted January 24, 2019 Author Share Posted January 24, 2019 I just noticed the engine management light and the other oil lights on the right side of the dash isn't working....checked plug and thats fine. Are they on a fuse of their own? I can't see a fuse out though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike2JZ Posted January 24, 2019 Share Posted January 24, 2019 ECU is dead. Either from faulty wiring or motherboard has blown a resistor of some sort. Your lights on dash could also be suffering from cold solder. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jackso11 Posted January 24, 2019 Author Share Posted January 24, 2019 ECU is dead. Either from faulty wiring or motherboard has blown a resistor of some sort. Your lights on dash could also be suffering from cold solder. I have checked the plug on the back og the EML light and the plug is a bit dodgy, if I hold it the lights come on so I am able to read the codes. One EML code - 14 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jackso11 Posted January 24, 2019 Author Share Posted January 24, 2019 I have checked the plug on the back og the EML light and the plug is a bit dodgy, if I hold it the lights come on so I am able to read the codes. One EML code - 14 You still think the ECU is dead? I hope not as its a mines ECU - only done about 20 miles since putting it in just as a test run. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike2JZ Posted January 24, 2019 Share Posted January 24, 2019 (edited) I have checked the plug on the back og the EML light and the plug is a bit dodgy, if I hold it the lights come on so I am able to read the codes. One EML code - 14 Check your coilpack clips, check your spark plugs aren't fouled. Check your igniter is in good order ECU is fine probably. Sometimes when ECU's die you don't get the EML warning showing, but if yours appears then should be ok. EDIT: Don't suppose you jump started the car after it's been sitting? If you get terminals the wrong way round you can burn out igniter Edited January 24, 2019 by Mike2JZ (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jackso11 Posted January 24, 2019 Author Share Posted January 24, 2019 https://jza80.mkivsupra.net/imports/2019/01/8.png Check your coilpack clips, check your spark plugs aren't fouled. Check your igniter is in good order ECU is fine probably. Sometimes when ECU's die you don't get the EML warning showing, but if yours appears then should be ok. EDIT: Don't suppose you jump started the car after it's been sitting? If you get terminals the wrong way round you can burn out igniter No I haven't jumped it, disconnected the battery and charged it over night. I will check the coilpack clips but they are all new and it idles very smoothly. Really confusing Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jackso11 Posted January 24, 2019 Author Share Posted January 24, 2019 Pulled the spark plugs and cleaned them all and dried them (even though they were already dry) just to rule them out. still no joy. I have now noticed the O/D light is flashing sometimes too when I rev it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scooter Posted January 24, 2019 Share Posted January 24, 2019 Do you have the old ECU? might be worth a swap in for the few minutes it takes....... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jackso11 Posted January 24, 2019 Author Share Posted January 24, 2019 unfortunately I swapped with keron Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jackso11 Posted January 24, 2019 Author Share Posted January 24, 2019 Don't suppose anyone is local to norwich that I can quickly borrow an igniter to test? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jackso11 Posted January 24, 2019 Author Share Posted January 24, 2019 I’m going to change the igniter and hope that sorts it. If it’s not that then I think it may be the mines ecu I just picked up from Keron as it hasn’t really been used since putting it in. Checked and it’s done 8 miles Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jackso11 Posted June 19, 2019 Author Share Posted June 19, 2019 Ok so this has been a while as we have been so busy at work and at home my family is growing But I have finaly had a few minutes to look t this again. New information....can anyone help? Basically I charged the battery off the car fully and put it on, started the car and id seemed to run fine again magically. O/D light is flashing, 6 times then 2, then another 6 then 3, on cycle. So I drove it round the building and as I was coming back in to the car park it suddenly started not revving over 1500 rpm again . It seemed to do it as I went over a bump so I thought maybe electrical and a bad connection. I left it over night, started again and it runs fine! However I have discovered that without touching anything and without the car doing anything other than ticking over, when it gets up to running temp I tried to rev it again and its back to not revving over 1500 rpm. So the problem seems to be only there when up to running temp. Is there some kind of limp mode or sensor that this would indicate need looking at? I am hoping one of you clever people will know what this is! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jackso11 Posted June 19, 2019 Author Share Posted June 19, 2019 I have googled and found this... #42 Defective no 1 speed sensor #61 Defective no2 speed sensor #62 Defective no 1 solenoid #63 Defective no 2 solenoid #64 Defective lock up solenoid which might be the solution to the O/D flashes but no help for the engine problem I don't think. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jackso11 Posted June 19, 2019 Author Share Posted June 19, 2019 nobody have any ideas? I remember a time when you could put a question on here and spend the day reading different peoples opinions forum seems to have gone quite these days. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Style Posted June 20, 2019 Share Posted June 20, 2019 Tried another ECU? Annoying thing to have to do if you don't have another one but may well be the issue Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scooter Posted June 20, 2019 Share Posted June 20, 2019 Is the Supra work manual for the autobox not on here? it 'may' be the autobox/or its solenoids are reporting an issue and there is a limp type mode to protect it.....this sort of fits with the reseting after turning off and on the next day. Perhaps get it up to temperature so it's doing the same thing then turn off for maybe 10mins (so it's still hot) and see if it lets you rev high even briefly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scooter Posted June 20, 2019 Share Posted June 20, 2019 Extract from Toyota manual Codes 42, 62, 63 and 64 are limited to short or open circuits in the electrical system comprised of the solenoids, wire harnesses, and connectors. The ECM is unable to detect mechanical trouble (sticking, for example) in the solenoid valves. • If the speed sensors No.1 and No.2 happen to fail simultaneously, the ECM will neither alert the driver by blinking the O/D OFF indicator nor record any diagnostic trouble code. It will, however, decide that the vehicle can be driven only in 1st and none of the other gears, shifting upward will then be prohibited. Also re code 64 which may point to the main ecu? All conditions below are detected for 1 sec. or more: (2 trip detection logic)*3 (a) ECM output duty signal to No.3 solenoid in 90% or higher duty ratio http://shop.ukrtrans.biz/wp-content/uploads/catalogs/A340E.pdf (b) Current to No.3 solenoid: 450±100 mA or less Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jackso11 Posted June 27, 2019 Author Share Posted June 27, 2019 There has been a development in the problem it would seem. I decided to unplug one of the plugs going to the coilpacks to see what would happen while the engine is running....pot luck but for some reason I pulled the second one from the front first and there was no change in the engine running at all! It started up fine, I left it a few minutes and all of a sudden while idling it sounded like it wasn't running on all cylinders so I pulled that plug and there was no change in it at all, so it would appear when the problem starts I am running on 5 cylinders. If I pull any of the other plugs the engine dies. I swapped coilpacks around and its always the 2nd cylinder from the front of the engine. I investigated the wiring to that plug and found under the sheathing both wires were cut and I presumed they were shorting so cut out the bad wire and put in some new wire. Still nothing from that cylinder....but the O/D light has stopped flashing...odd. Makes me think either there is another part of the wire damaged, there is a problem with the igniter pack and the second igniter pack I have (which doesn't seem plausible) or the ECU. DOes this make anyone out there think 'I know exactly what that is!' Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shane Posted June 28, 2019 Share Posted June 28, 2019 There has been a development in the problem it would seem. I decided to unplug one of the plugs going to the coilpacks to see what would happen while the engine is running....pot luck but for some reason I pulled the second one from the front first and there was no change in the engine running at all! It started up fine, I left it a few minutes and all of a sudden while idling it sounded like it wasn't running on all cylinders so I pulled that plug and there was no change in it at all, so it would appear when the problem starts I am running on 5 cylinders. If I pull any of the other plugs the engine dies. I swapped coilpacks around and its always the 2nd cylinder from the front of the engine. I investigated the wiring to that plug and found under the sheathing both wires were cut and I presumed they were shorting so cut out the bad wire and put in some new wire. Still nothing from that cylinder....but the O/D light has stopped flashing...odd. Makes me think either there is another part of the wire damaged, there is a problem with the igniter pack and the second igniter pack I have (which doesn't seem plausible) or the ECU. DOes this make anyone out there think 'I know exactly what that is!' The High Ripple Current capacitors in the ECU that leak over the board can cause the OD light to flash and produce error codes, interestingly both ecus that have done this on mine worked fine from cold but then after a period of driving start to mess around causing the OD light to flash and the clue if you know what it smells like, is a whiff of electrolyte cooking from the caps. This could and I emphasise the could, be your OD flashing problem. As Scooter said in his earlier post, the box has 2 sensors, one is a 2 wire sensor that solely provides info for gear changes and the other a 3 wire type which is mainly for the odo, PS ECU and speedo. However if the output from the 2 wire sensor disappears the ecu then uses the info coming from the 3 wire sensor and will also produce a transmission fault code to let you know. If as Scooter says both have died (which would be really really unlucky I would think) the ecu will then limit what you can do and go to a full on limp mode. If you have a digital multimeter that has a frequency counter built in (many do nowadays as standard) you will be able to see what’s coming off the sensors at the ecu end to give you some clues. Regarding the coil pack issues, sounds like you need to cut the loom a fair way back at the coil packs and renew the wiring, these cables do get really brittle and fall to pieces, and in form of a shameless plug, I have a set of brand new coil pack connectors with about 6" of cable pre-terminated available together with the heat shrink. I was going to list them in the for sale section when I had chance but if it helps you out we could do a deal I am sure. Hope some of this may help, good luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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