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The mkiv Supra Owners Club

Timing belt change


Dave

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So I’m about to replace the crank pulley and whilst it’s off I want to replace the timing belt ,was watching fuzz Townsend and he changed the belt by cutting the old one down the middle putting the new one on the cogs and then cutting the old one off ,anyone done this is ,is it as easy as it looks ?

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That technique is a bodge for folks who don't understand how to do the job properly. :shrug:

 

Mr T. kindly placed marks on the crank and camshaft pulley's especially for this job.

 

Why not do something sensible and take a look at the Workshop Manual?

 

Quite amazingly, how to do this job properly is explained there in detail.

Edited by David P (see edit history)
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Dave I think this could be done as the belt run/pulley have no big lips. If I were doing it that way (as said it's not too hard to do it normally but I understand the confidence might not be there) I would cut the belt thinner ie leave a 1/4 on not half, this will make the new belt easier to get on. I would also access the 2 (10mm I think) tensioner bolts and loosen them a tad again this will aid fitting.

 

If you end up undoing the tension more than a tiny bit I would personally reset it once the belts on. If you have it on all matching, then cut the old belt off, move the new one right on and then lightly clamp the belt to the cam pulleys (clothes peg, mole grips just be sensible/careful) and on the crank part a wedge some paper/card in the small gap between the belt and oil pump housing.

 

Then fully remove the tensioner, the belt will only be slack on that side, reset the tensioner by clamping in a vice, this needs to be done slowly in 'clamp a bit/wait/clamp a bit/wait' fashion until the pin goes back enough for a hand grenade type pin (2mm or so allen key) to be inserted horizontally through the side holes and centre pin. Release from the vice and the allen key will be holding back the centre pin.

 

Refit the tensioner and when it's all tightened up, pull the pin, the belt will be tightened back, all clamps and wedges can be removed.

 

Before putting all the car back together when you reach the point of putting the crank pully on, pop it on to the key way and check the marks on the crank pully line up with the plastic lower cam cover and the cam wheel marks match to the indents on the tin guard piece behind them.

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Once the pully etc is off the cams and crank don't just freely flop around. They stay in place to a degree.

 

It's easy enough to pull off the old belt and slip on the new one.

 

Slide on the new one and , tension it up and rotate the crank manually 2/3 times to make sure all the marks line up after 3 turns

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Dave I think this could be done as the belt run/pulley have no big lips. If I were doing it that way (as said it's not too hard to do it normally but I understand the confidence might not be there) I would cut the belt thinner ie leave a 1/4 on not half, this will make the new belt easier to get on. I would also access the 2 (10mm I think) tensioner bolts and loosen them a tad again this will aid fitting.

 

If you end up undoing the tension more than a tiny bit I would personally reset it once the belts on. If you have it on all matching, then cut the old belt off, move the new one right on and then lightly clamp the belt to the cam pulleys (clothes peg, mole grips just be sensible/careful) and on the crank part a wedge some paper/card in the small gap between the belt and oil pump housing.

 

Then fully remove the tensioner, the belt will only be slack on that side, reset the tensioner by clamping in a vice, this needs to be done slowly in 'clamp a bit/wait/clamp a bit/wait' fashion until the pin goes back enough for a hand grenade type pin (2mm or so allen key) to be inserted horizontally through the side holes and centre pin. Release from the vice and the allen key will be holding back the centre pin.

 

Refit the tensioner and when it's all tightened up, pull the pin, the belt will be tightened back, all clamps and wedges can be removed.

 

Before putting all the car back together when you reach the point of putting the crank pully on, pop it on to the key way and check the marks on the crank pully line up with the plastic lower cam cover and the cam wheel marks match to the indents on the tin guard piece behind them.

 

Thanks scooter

 

- - - Updated - - -

 

Once the pully etc is off the cams and crank don't just freely flop around. They stay in place to a degree.

 

It's easy enough to pull off the old belt and slip on the new one.

 

Slide on the new one and , tension it up and rotate the crank manually 2/3 times to make sure all the marks line up after 3 turns

 

 

Cheers ric that’s what I thought

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