Project VVT-I TT + Nismo 370Z 6-speed trans

[RastaMc]

Hi everyone.

 

My intention with this topic is to share my experience of swapping a 370Z 6-speed Nismo transmission in my Supra TT VVT-i (previous NA with a W58 transmission) with all of you guys.

I will be as clear as possible explaining everything I have done so that this information can be used by the ones who want to follow the same steps.[COOL][/COOL]

 

The idea and decision to look for this type of swap was mostly finance. Since the 6-speed V160/161 are expensive as hell with sometimes no guarantee of the type of (ab)use they got and the internal status of the trans, it was time to look into other horizons.

Searching for a V16* in Germany I got in contact with someone who was selling a 370Z 6-speed transmission with around 16.000km on the clock. Beside this he offered me the clutch, cardan shaft, slave cylinder, differential (Auto TT LSD) and some other stuff for a reasonable price. Compared to a V160 (only) who he was selling for more than the price of the Nissan swap I decided to take this chance.

The kit is build to handle more than 800HP without any problem. This is based on the type of clutch and some reliable information about the 370Z trans. As far as I could understand are the early Nissan's transmissions (350Z until 2008) a possible pain in the A**. Since Nissan upgraded the trans for the 370Z I was convinced that this one will be better than the others. Beside that I owned a Nismo one so trying was the only way to figure some things out.

 

PART 1

What I bought and what you need for the swap:

- Nismo 370Z 6-speed 2009 transmission (code: CD08#1 JK40B AWD 1EA0B).This one has the electronic coupling right in front of the shifter who send the gear number to the digital cluster in the dashboard.

- Collins adapter for the JK40C transmission-Supra swap VQ35 to 2JZ GTE

- Tilton 7.25" double cerametallic clutch Ultra-High 410 lb-ft per clutch plate

- Z-speed heavy Duty Hydraulic Slave Cylinder (without filling ring. Afterwards I didn't need it)

- Full aluminium cardan shaft (1175 mm long)

- Collins propshaft - differential adapter

- Willwood clutch master cylinder (as reserve since the oem Toyota works very well with this setup)

- FENFAB CD002JZ shifter. I personally recommend to choose the CD999 or other type since we needed to adapt this one to get a better shift movement.

- Collins transmission mount (really a shitty product. I advice to build your own one or buy this one and reinforce it, like what I did).

- Red Line transmission oil MT-85 (4 gallons since 3.5 gallons will be consumed).

- OEM Supra diff bushes (I ordered the oem one since I am not aiming to reach extreme high HP with my car). Be prepared (mentally and physically) to change these guys:taped:

- Differential (first I got the AUTO TT LSD one ratio 3.796 but now I have the 6-speed TT Jspec 3.266 ratio--> Thanks to a forum member here.).

- Flywheel (made in Germany and thicker than the Collins one)

- Dacota Digital SGI-5E (for the conversion of the signal from the abs to the speedometer)

Edited December 19, 2018 by RastaMc (see edit history)

[RastaMc]

I will continue tomorrow with part 2: preparing for install

[formatzero]

Interesting thread !

[RastaMc]

Okidoki.

Next step is preparing all the parts for install.

At first the transmission.

The JK40B is one of the latest type for the Nissan Z cars. This one has better internals parts compared to the older versions. However, in some aspect they are weak. For example the oem slave cylinder. The base of this one is made of plastic and soon this will be a headache regarding the shift performance (grinding in gears 3-4-5). Beside this the oil used for these transmissions is an issue. Nissan drivers are complaining about the oem Nissan oil and shift in big groups to Red Line Mt-T-85 oil. There is even a kind of "ideal" mix of the Red Line oil consisting in MT-85 and MT-90. The fact is that, to avoid shifting problems, the oil chosen need to be the right one. Yeahh.....which one??? I followed the experience of the USA guys and put 3.5 quartz of Red Line oil MT-85. It's not cheap, specially here in Holland where I paid almost €25 for 1 quart (0.938 L). Via e-bay you can order it more cheaper.

 

The JK40B and the JK40C comes with a speed revolution assy at the back of the transmission. I first thought that this can be the signal I need for the speedo but later I find out that Nissan uses another type of configuration to get the speed from trans to the speed cluster. So a plan B was needed. Simplest way is to get the signal from the front abs wheel (no matter which one), connect it to a signal converter (like Dakota Digital SGI-5E) and then to the wiring of the speed signal of the Supra. Easy!!! Be sure that the ABS sensor is working properly.

 

First of all the case of the trans. This is huge compared to the V160 and also to the tinny W58. You will need to do some painful work of the tunnel of the Supra. Specially were the sensor of the speed revolution assy goes (see picture 2).

You also need the speed sensor placed there otherwise you will spill are your trans oil out. You can order this one as the: 31935-8E006 G4T07481 for the Nissan Infiniti.

 

Be sure also to have the Seal-oil rear for the trans. At least change this to be sure you don't spill your precious expensive oil. Nissan oem code: 32136-CD000 (for the 370Z trans). I don't know if the 350Z or other manual trans used the same seal.

 

Next step was to place the adapter on a vvt-i motor a friend of my had on the floor. It was than easy to see if everything is connected like it's needed. One of the important steps in assembling the flywheel and other stuff is that you need the flex plate spacer against the crank of the stock automatic plate (where the starter does its job) and also remove the front flex plate spacer between the stock flywheel and the automatic plate. So only the back one between the automatic plate and the crank need to be in place. For more information look for Collins stage 5 Twin Disc on Youtube.

 

Another thing to do is to change the way how the starter is bolt on the Supra. Normally this one is tighten via the trans bell housing but now this one will be tighten the other way around. Thus putting the nuts via the engine side (see picture 1, 3, 4).

Now the starter's position is figured out let's see what about the clutch, flywheel and hydraulic slave cylinder.

 

After some trails and errors, regarding the type of slave cylinder we needed, we conclude that the best match for this trans with a Tilton 7.25" dual clutch was using the Zspeed hydraulic slave. I will save you all the details about this. Just know that if you use a flywheel like Collins does, or like the one a German friend of mine build for me, you will be fine using the Zspeed heavy Duty hydraulic slave (pic 6). The height of the slave is perfect for the distance between the diaphragm fingers of the clutch and the base of the trans where the slave is mounted.

 

You also need to mill some extension of the trans, like Collins explained in his video (pic 5 and 6).

 

Now the shifter.

FENFAB make the cheapest one of all versions. You have also the CD999, CBF and others. So I decide to take the FENFAB. After installing it, like the manual specifies, we realized that the distance between 1-3-5 gears or 2-4-6 were to close to each other. So risk of wrong shifting was very high. We toke the shifter and change the distance of the ring were the head of the shifter handle goes. This will change the distance between the gears and will be better and saver to shift. (pics 7, 8, 9, 10). Now the shifter is OK we are ready to rock!

Edited November 9, 2018 by RastaMc (see edit history)

[RastaMc]

Installing the trans.

 

First step was installing the flywheel and the clutch.

We decided not to get the engine out of the engine bay. So it was now time to improvise and see how we will achieve this.

I am lucky to have a friend with a bridge and also hydraulic flange spreader. We loosen the bolts of the subframe carrying the engine and put the hydraulic flange spreader between the engine and the stabilizer bar at the front. This would give us more tilt angle for placing the trans to the engine. It was really a hell of a job, but we did it!!

First thing I observed was the space between the trans and the tunnel. There wasn't!!!!!! There was only about 5 to 10 mm distance between those parts, so it was very tight.

 

Beside that we needed to cut a piece of the shifter position whole of the tunnel in order to place the trans on the right height. It was for me very painful to do that:(

But, that's life.

 

Final part was putting the Collins gearbox support or mount. I have read on the USA forum that this mount was very weak. And they were right. the first time I drove the car I could see the shifter banging forward and backwards when shifting. So we decide to reinforce it a little. And it works!!

Everything was now in place.

Edited November 9, 2018 by RastaMc (see edit history)

[RastaMc]

The hydraulic slave of Zspeed was a plug and play thing regarding the hydraulic hose of the Supra, so no worries about that.

Next step was mounting the propshaft and the propshaft adapter from Collins. This adapter is made as well for the big flange as for the small flange of the diff. Important to know is that if you use a big diff the length of the propshaft will be 114.5 cm and not 117.5 cm like mine. I use a small TT 6-speed diff B03B.

Now everything in place was time to install the signals form the abs sensor to the Dakota Digital. This step wasn't difficult at all. Just extend the 2 wires from the abs sensor and follow the instructions in the manual.

My setup is:

HIGH signal IN - LOW signal OUT.

Connect the signal OUT wire to OUTPUT #5. I will make a picture of the wire installation later.

Go drive for a while and set the speed on the speedo in your car to 100 km/h when you are driving at 100 km/h. You will need a GPS or something like this. Just press + or - buttons on the Dakota Digital en voilá.

The pictures attached are when the trans mount or support wasn't reinforced yet.

 

 

Regarding the shifter. I also ordered a quick shifter via ebay, designed for the Supra, to match the thickness of the screw were the oem shift knob goes. The one from FENFAB is smaller.

Other thing I need to figure out is how to close the shifting area with a rubber shift boot, since I can't use the original one. I will load also pictures of the shifter how it looks right now later.

 

The good news is that the transmission shift very smooth, quick and feels reliable. I am running stock BPU and the piggy bag is set off right now. I didn't try boosting it full yet. First check if everything shifts and works like I want.

One thing is for sure, the twin clutch disc makes a lot of noise. And learning to shift with that clutch is hard, specially when the traffic light is on green and you are the first car to move:taped:

But this is normal behavior and noises from that kind of clutch system. So I am very happy and enormous thankful to Bjorn (my good friend) and Marcel Wittke (Germany) for the information shared and all the help I got from them.

It was really a learn full experience and knowledge we got during this swap. So if you have questions don't hesitate to contact me.

 

And now it's time to enjoy that beauty for a couple of weeks.

Next challenge: car painting.

Edited November 9, 2018 by RastaMc (see edit history)

[Sheefa]

Fantastic write up and will no doubt be useful for many members who look to do a conversion away from the insanely expensive v160/v161. Well done mate.

 

 

[RastaMc]

Thanks mate!

[Noz]

After just posting on another gearbox thread this is great to see. Will be following this with interest!

[and1c]

great info

[RastaMc]

Hi guys.

 

As promised, hereby some pictures of how the shifter looks with the FenFab shifter on the Nissan transmission.

Here you can see the part I needed to cut to give the shifter free movement.

Next step is to cut the oem rubber shift boot to guarantee as low external sound and smoke as possible. Now is a hell of noise inside the car when driving

[and1c]

Awesome work! thanks a lot for posting all this.

[Noz]

How does it drive? With the new shifter.

 

I had an extended shifter with my first R154 which was pretty naff, but with a proper extension I can't even tell it's non-mkiv transmission. How does it drive compared to a W58/V160?

 

I've had a quick look on manual 370z boxes, with little luck

[RastaMc]

Hi Noz.

 

Well, compared to the W58 I don't think there is a big difference between them, both shifts very smoothly. I don't know how the V160 shifts so I can only talk from the W58 side one.

The shifter itself is good but you need to make some adaptations on it. If interested I can explain exactly what to do.

Beside the FenFab shifter I also bought a quick shifter from ebay (cheap to try things out) so I can get the reverse shifting lock like the oem with a V160 ( you need to pull the shifter up to go to reverse).

Right now I freak out every time I want to shift from 5 to 6 since there is no mechanical restriction on the shifter to accidentally shift from 5 to reverse. So I actually shift with veeeeerrryy care from 5 to 6.

I need to build a kind of plate with a restriction nut on it to avoid making this mistake. The quick shifter will works like the oem 6-speed shifter.

 

But in general, the shifter and gearbox works very well and I am very happy with them.

[RastaMc]

Hi Noz.

 

Well, compared to the W58 I don't think there is a big difference between them, both shifts very smoothly. I don't know how the V160 shifts so I can only talk from the W58 side one.

The shifter itself is good but you need to make some adaptations on it. If interested I can explain exactly what to do.

Beside the FenFab shifter I also bought a quick shifter from ebay (cheap to try things out) so I can get the reverse shifting lock like the oem with a V160 ( you need to pull the shifter up to go to reverse).

Right now I freak out every time I want to shift from 5 to 6 since there is no mechanical restriction on the shifter to accidentally shift from 5 to reverse. So I actually shift with veeeeerrryy care from 5 to 6.

I need to build a kind of plate with a restriction nut on it to avoid making this mistake. The quick shifter will works like the oem 6-speed shifter.

 

But in general, the shifter and gearbox works very well and I am very happy with them.

[Chingy]

Nice read, thank you

[Noz]

So are you just running oem power at the moment? I would definitely think making a couple of those anti-reverse items would be great. I'd love to see a price on that!

 

Have you totalled the whole project together yet?

 

I am shocked more people are exploring or at least, asking every question possible to follow in your footsteps regarding a 6 speed, high power reliable option.

[Noz]

Do you know if the 350z gearbox is the same length? I'll have a quick Google, but any information you have to hand that you've learnt about other swaps that could be used on your setup would be interesting to hear about.

 

I envisage a 350z gearbox setup would be ideal price wise until the option of finding a 370z to swap in its place. Of course, that's assuming a perfect opportunity like that would be possible!

[RastaMc]

Hi Noz.

 

Yes, right now I'm running oem power. However, everything is installed to increase the Boost up to 1.3 Bar. Boost controlled and Piggy bag (Apexi both) installed. Next on my list are higher flow fuel injectors and fuel pump. But first things first, the beauty need a fresh paint so that will be my very next step. After that I will tune her with the right parameters to increase safely the boost pressure.

 

Regarding the anti-reverse items. I am measuring and drawing the perfect item for this. During Christmas I will post what in my case is applicable to secure the reverse shift.

 

About the costs.... So I estimate, including transmission and diff oil (trans is very expensive €24/oz), trans+prop shaft+adapter+Flywheel+ TT6-speed diff+Tilton cluth+Zspeed slave cylinder+mount bushes+Dakota Digital instruments for reading the right speed+abs sensors (i didn't have them on my car)+FenFab shifter+quick shifter+paying my friend for helping me, around the €7500.

 

But this was in my case. What I see now is that a 370Z trans went from €1300 to almost €2000 because they know that more people are looking for them. Also some parts I found were very cheap for me. So this is a roughly estimation of the costs. For sure you end having a package that can hold 1000hp without any problem. A friend of my in Germany, Marcel Wittke, is selling these trans with some of these components for the Supra. You can get to him via FB. Right now he has 2 brand new 370Z and one new 350Z gearboxes available. Also a couple of RHD headlights Facelift and Glass and even a Supra 2JZ GTE VVT-i with a R154 on it. So if interested in something just ask him.

Edited December 13, 2018 by RastaMc (see edit history)

[RastaMc]

Do you know if the 350z gearbox is the same length? I'll have a quick Google, but any information you have to hand that you've learnt about other swaps that could be used on your setup would be interesting to hear about.

 

I envisage a 350z gearbox setup would be ideal price wise until the option of finding a 370z to swap in its place. Of course, that's assuming a perfect opportunity like that would be possible!

 

Yes they are. During the swap I found out that the prop shaft was a little bit to long for the distance between the gearbox and the coupling disc on the diff. So I asked a friend of my to measure the length of both gearboxes (he had both in the garage) and the were the same length. I advice you to search for a 370Z. These are for sure the CD009 and if you are lucky you can also find the Nismo one.

If you want a 370Z trans with similar package than contact Marcel Wittke on FB. He is a friend of mine in Germany. Good quality and good price!