Dnk Posted December 7, 2018 Share Posted December 7, 2018 Never had any issues with my car with a silly big HKS R spec in the front Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Harris25 Posted December 7, 2018 Author Share Posted December 7, 2018 Never had any issues with my car with a silly big HKS R spec in the front Ye Once I had typed it and submitted I did a bit of reading and came to the conclusion it should be fine. Just wants all the spiders cleaning out of it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank Bullitt Posted December 7, 2018 Share Posted December 7, 2018 Any opinions on the Air con delete. Im looking at how its stacked up at the front. There is a my FMIC then the aircon rad before the radiator. It cannot be good for it, or am I overthinking it? Thing is I think I would use the air con but the car is going to be second car rather than a daily driver like it was before so maybe I would do without. I don’t think there is any need for that but if you were concerned (is in so much that it bothers you) fit a SMIC and keep the air con. I wouldn’t get rid of the air con to keep a FMIC. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dnk Posted December 7, 2018 Share Posted December 7, 2018 What condition is the rad in, is it original or been replaced at some point ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Harris25 Posted December 7, 2018 Author Share Posted December 7, 2018 It looks original, I would say it looks worse than it is. Until I make an effort to clean it I can not really say. Its on my job list for the weekend as well as getting the rear calipers off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dnk Posted December 7, 2018 Share Posted December 7, 2018 I'd be flushing it through at the very least, i'd also get a new rad cap for it as they fail and cause coolant problems and overheating Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Harris25 Posted December 7, 2018 Author Share Posted December 7, 2018 Ahh sorry. I thought you meant the condenser. No the rad is aftermarket. It's blown near the top right corner which may or may mot have happened when it was mounted. Going to have a go at fixing it which I'm pretty sure I can. Get my tig weld on. I've got a new rad cap on order too already. I'm going to flush the heater matrix whilst the rad is off. Then flush again once the rad goes back on to do the full coolant system. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Harris25 Posted December 12, 2018 Author Share Posted December 12, 2018 Just wanted a bit of advice on this before I put it back together. I have managed to weld the radiator. Lost a couple of fins in the process but its a very small area. Ill monitor the temp and swap it out but I really think it will be fine. Before I stick it all back together should I be changing the timing belt, tensioner, water pump and other wheels all in one go? This obviously wants doing at some point but should I be concerned and do it before driving it round again? I have flushed the heater matrix and some right bits came out. Really not sure if that is going to work again. Just need to reflush the entire system with the radiator back on and drain and refill. In regards to the brakes I am waiting for some more bits then going to take all 4 calipers off and refurb all of them with a CW kit. Just need to order it so I can do it over Xmas Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evinX Posted December 12, 2018 Share Posted December 12, 2018 Do all fluids, you can get oem spec rads of keron for good prices. Change the belts. May not need a water pump and tensioner... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dnk Posted December 12, 2018 Share Posted December 12, 2018 (edited) Does it have the cars original Crank Pulley still fitted, they separate when they get old and the metal outer ring flies off. 1 owner on here suffered a damaged oil pump when that happened as the pulley hit the pump and cracked the casing. At the least do a tippex test on the pulley Edited December 17, 2018 by Dnk spelling (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scooter Posted December 12, 2018 Share Posted December 12, 2018 (edited) I agree the rad will probably be fine, hopefully the matrix bits are bits that have ended up in it rather than bits of the actual matrix. Have you run it up to temperature and checked for heat from the heater or leaks from anywhere? When you say you aren't sure it'll work again it, if the flushing water flowed through it then it will either work in some form or leak into the passenger side footwell because its perforated. Also what was the inside of the coolant pipes like any evidence of rust grit? if there was a waterpump and thermostat renewal and flush at that time wouldn't go amiss (main to/from rad pipes worth doing too) I would at least run it up to temp to check things over now, you can obviously go belt and braces right now but you don't 100% have to just yet. I'd concentrate on the cooling/heating system and see if it's all operational, seems like the engine all starts and runs well? Perhaps look for some cheap coolant deals and fill it up and maybe use a holts quick flush again? have you drained the coolant completely as well as flushing the matrix and rad, there is a bolt that drains the block, but it's awkward to get at as it's tucked away under the turbos but it might be worth you draining from there too to see what you get out of there, can always flush through too while it's open (depends how much crud has accumulated which we can't know!) Edited December 12, 2018 by Scooter (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scooter Posted December 12, 2018 Share Posted December 12, 2018 As Dunk says tippex test or even a paper sticker across the outer inch of the crank pulley to check for potential separation. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tintinmt Posted December 14, 2018 Share Posted December 14, 2018 Hadn't heard of the tippex test until now. The stock Toyota crank pulleys are made of more than one part separated by a rubber damper designed to protect the crank from vibration and wear. When the crank pulley gets old, the rubber wears and the two parts slip, causing the squealing noise. If you don't replace it, it could fly off and smash up other bits in the engine bay. Prove this is the problem by painting a line of tipp-ex across the two parts, then rev the engine and check to see if the tipp-ex marks still line up. You can reach down to get to it, through the gap marked with the arrow in the picture. Even after simply starting the engine on my Supra, the two parts had slipped and the tipp-ex marks didn't line up any more. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Harris25 Posted December 17, 2018 Author Share Posted December 17, 2018 Hi guys sorry for the late reply. On the matrix, I have not run it up to temp as I have been in London although that is where I will start. In regards to it leaking in the passenger footwell I did not check but I have got a sneaking suspicion it is from from memory 5 years ago. Which I now obviously know means its Donald ducked, took you to mention it to remind me though. I had never heard of the tipex test either but will do that this weekend. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scooter Posted December 17, 2018 Share Posted December 17, 2018 Hi guys sorry for the late reply. On the matrix, I have not run it up to temp as I have been in London although that is where I will start. In regards to it leaking in the passenger footwell I did not check but I have got a sneaking suspicion it is from from memory 5 years ago. Which I now obviously know means its Donald ducked, took you to mention it to remind me though. I had never heard of the tipex test either but will do that this weekend. Thing is if you flushed it and bits came out then if it was leaking you should now have a wet passenger footwell as well!? I would perhaps remove the passenger front seat, remove the plastic door strip on top of the carpet and pull the carpet back to get eyes on the ecu area and bulkhead, before you test it up to temperature so you can see if it is leaking? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Harris25 Posted December 17, 2018 Author Share Posted December 17, 2018 Thing is if you flushed it and bits came out then if it was leaking you should now have a wet passenger footwell as well!? I would perhaps remove the passenger front seat, remove the plastic door strip on top of the carpet and pull the carpet back to get eyes on the ecu area and bulkhead, before you test it up to temperature so you can see if it is leaking? As Its because I did not pull it fully out of the garage to flush it. So I never even went into the car only to pop the bonnet. Im back at home now so Ill check the passenger footwell. As soon as I read your previous post though I had a flashback of some water leaking in there at some point. It must have bee buried deep.. :/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scooter Posted December 17, 2018 Share Posted December 17, 2018 Well fingers crossed it's not as that is a real labour intensive pain of a job! Can still by pass the matrix in the engine bay if it is holed to test the other stuff, but will be tricky to get it out for a few months with nil heating! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darren Posted December 29, 2018 Share Posted December 29, 2018 Great thread I too have a 98 vvti that’s been sitting for 8 years. So far I’ve: Fired it up! Changed oil n filter (will repeat after a few more miles) MOT’d it Found my new UK rear callipers that were in garage for 10 years Ordered discs n pads (F&R) will finally upgrade rears. Ordered air filter Ordered cam belt We are on the same journey!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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