Car sat for 5 years - My plan / Suggestions welcome

[Harris25]

Hi guys,

 

Not been on here in years (5 to be exact) up until very recently as I realised I had to do something about the car.

 

 

Its a 94 TT manual 6 speed BPU and UK brakes

 

Firstly lets get this out of the way, I am a complete ****. Left the car to stand outside for 5 years, it didn't move. I honestly never intended to do that but life moved at a frantic pace from buying a house to having a family. I always intended to come back to it, just much sooner than I eventually did. Now I am older, wiser and have the money I need to restore it. Which I feel is my duty now..

 

So please judge away on that one, I probably deserve it.

 

 

I have recently moved the car into my new garage and started to get my list together on what I need to do before even trying to turn it over. please comment and let me know if I am on the right lines.

 

 

From this weekend I am going to:

 

Full Clean down and have a proper look at any rust underneath - I have had a quick look at it looks like there is some surface rust but I can treat this and can weld if required.

Empty the fuel tank and change the fuel filter

Change the Transmission Fluid

Change the Oil and filter (Read conflicting posts if I should Flush with chemical or just change the oil then change it again once its run for a few hundred miles)

Change the Coolant

Change the Spark Plugs

New Battery

 

There is obviously going to be much more with replacing hoses but until I look I don't really know.

I have read about putting penetrating oil into the cylinders before I turn it over for the first time which I will follow.

 

Anything I have missed to start with?

 

Thanks in advance

Edited November 1, 2018 by Harris25 (see edit history)

[rider]

You probably want to add in a timing belt and tensioner and sensible brake overhaul/checks. The wheel bearings could be corroded also after so long standing, particularly if they are the 24 year old type of bearings. You may also want to squirt a little diesel into each cylinder before hand cranking as the rings will be dry after 5 years standing and that would lubricate the rings and bore ready for starter cranking.

[Scooter]

http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?314348-N-A-first-start-up-in-2-years-Checklist-of-things-to-do&highlight=years

 

Some good info here.....

 

I would be tempted to pop a 22mm spanner on the crank nut and turn it a little, pop a good battery on it and then remove an EFI fuse and crank it a bit, then refit the fuse and try and start it. If it fires into life then you know you are good to go with your list. I wouldn't go driving and boosting on the old fuel but from what is in the link above (see Chris Wilsons post) I don't think you can do much harm trying to fire it up? (but wait a bit in case others think I am wrong!)

 

It will be a good to know before you start the work, in case the spark plugs/clips give you grief and cause a misfire, which if you don't fire it up now you may put down to being laid up and start chasing your tail for a solution. If it fires up and idles ok now it gives you a baseline to work from.

[Harris25]

You probably want to add in a timing belt and tensioner and sensible brake overhaul/checks. The wheel bearings could be corroded also after so long standing, particularly if they are the 24 year old type of bearings. You may also want to squirt a little diesel into each cylinder before hand cranking as the rings will be dry after 5 years standing and that would lubricate the rings and bore ready for starter cranking.

 

Thanks Rider

[Harris25]

http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?314348-N-A-first-start-up-in-2-years-Checklist-of-things-to-do&highlight=years

 

Some good info here.....

 

I would be tempted to pop a 22mm spanner on the crank nut and turn it a little, pop a good battery on it and then remove an EFI fuse and crank it a bit, then refit the fuse and try and start it. If it fires into life then you know you are good to go with your list. I wouldn't go driving and boosting on the old fuel but from what is in the link above (see Chris Wilsons post) I don't think you can do much harm trying to fire it up? (but wait a bit in case others think I am wrong!)

 

It will be a good to know before you start the work, in case the spark plugs/clips give you grief and cause a misfire, which if you don't fire it up now you may put down to being laid up and start chasing your tail for a solution. If it fires up and idles ok now it gives you a baseline to work from.

 

Thanks for the Link. I will look it over now. Ok Ill bear that in mind depending on what general thoughts are

[Bobbeh]

Deffo check and sort the brakes .. caliper internals/disks/pads might need a refurb if its been sat for so long.

[Harris25]

Deffo check and sort the brakes .. caliper internals/disks/pads might need a refurb if its been sat for so long.

 

I will do a full service on the brakes. The surrounding pieces of the puzzle I am confident I can assess and ensure it right. Its the engine that I needed advice on: While I consider my self enthusiastic and capable I am by no means a competent mechanic. Sure it will be fine.

 

If I get into any bother my plan is to take it slow and steady and refer back to here if required. Also youtube will take a bit of a bettering lol

[Bobbeh]

I will do a full service on the brakes. The surrounding pieces of the puzzle I am confident I can assess and ensure it right. Its the engine that I needed advice on: While I consider my self enthusiastic and capable I am by no means a competent mechanic. Sure it will be fine.

 

If I get into any bother my plan is to take it slow and steady and refer back to here if required. Also youtube will take a bit of a bettering lol

 

Sure.. I doubt its siezed but deffo worth taking precautions that have been already mentioned. A quick oil change and I bet it'll start right up.. its a Toyota at the end of the day - it'll work!

[Harris25]

Right ok guys. Got under the beast at the weekend and all looks ok. picking up a HCB005 battery next Monday so going stick that in and turn the crank manually first then give it a try on the starter.

 

 

Cleaned it all up and had the brakes off.

 

I read somewhere that I should put some penetrating lube directly into each cylinder (or diesel) before cranking. Is this a "nice to do" or a "need to do"?

 

I am nervously excited for next week...

[Harris25]

Ok update. It lives! Thanks for the advice. Can now proceed with a full service program and get her back o the road. Got a huge water leak from somewhere so gonna rip the radiator out and have a look but everything else looks fine. Thanks

[Homer]

Are you the same guy that has the red car in at Harty's garage? It might be a coincidence, but I saw a similar thread on the FB group. Great to hear it's running either way

 

I'm got a Supra 'resting' since 2013, so interested to see what issues were found. Mine burst a fuel hose (Hodge aftermarket one) 4 years back and it's not been started since.

[Harris25]

Are you the same guy that has the red car in at Harty's garage? It might be a coincidence, but I saw a similar thread on the FB group. Great to hear it's running either way

 

I'm got a Supra 'resting' since 2013, so interested to see what issues were found. Mine burst a fuel hose (Hodge aftermarket one) 4 years back and it's not been started since.

 

No Homer I am not. I will keep this thread updated as I go. So far it's the water leak so far but time will tell

[Harris25]

Are you the same guy that has the red car in at Harty's garage? It might be a coincidence, but I saw a similar thread on the FB group. Great to hear it's running either way

 

I'm got a Supra 'resting' since 2013, so interested to see what issues were found. Mine burst a fuel hose (Hodge aftermarket one) 4 years back and it's not been started since.

 

Also I don't do Facebook anymore. There's only a couple of things I do not like in this world. Sprouts, potholes and Mark zuckerburg.

[Harris25]

Ok update. Managed to start from the front and work back.

 

Headlights out and refurbed. Just waiting for paint to dry. Had some novice issues with painting but with some creative masking this a job anyone can do.

 

Radiator is out found the leak and has been added to my welding list. Reckon I can sort it, only going to cost me time and argon to try . The bottom hose did not want to come off it was a true battle.

 

New air filter on order. Realised the old one was an apexi fake so not sure if that affected anything. Managed to polish up the intake as well although I reckon I can get it better.

 

I have had a good look underneath. The main rust is where the radiator was. Everything else looks like it can be repaired and then sealed although I need a dry day.

 

The most trouble I had was getting a nut off the drivers side. I ended up with penetrating lube then positioned the car next to the wall of the house with the jack forcing a set of mole grips onto the wrench. With me then proceeding to jump on it like something out of casino. 2 hours later when I heard it give up I shouted so loud the postman shit a brick. Needless to say callipers are off now and I'm going to split them over the weekend. Probably need to speak to CW about a refurb kit.

 

Thankfully I have not hit anything I could not solve at this moment but I will keep this updated and get some pics up.

Edited November 28, 2018 by Harris25
Spelling (see edit history)

[Harris25]

Ok trying to have a look at the brakes and fell at the first hurdle. For love nor money can not get the pins out to release the pads.

 

I've give then a good dose of penetrating lube but they still will not budge.

 

Any guru advice? Or am I resigned to cutting them?

[Frank Bullitt]

Ok trying to have a look at the brakes and fell at the first hurdle. For love nor money can not get the pins out to release the pads.

 

I've give then a good dose of penetrating lube but they still will not budge.

 

Any guru advice? Or am I resigned to cutting them?

 

They will have rusted in place, carefully cut them out and replace them with CW’s superior S/S versions.

[Harris25]

Ye thought so. Already spoke to Chris about a kit. Wanted to check the pistons first tho. Thanks

[Frank Bullitt]

Ye thought so. Already spoke to Chris about a kit. Wanted to check the pistons first tho. Thanks

 

No problem, you can’t go wrong with CWs kit.

[Scooter]

The only things you can try on the brakes is trying to get something behind the mushroom/dome head of the pin. If you have some pliers like you use to snip bathroom tiles, you can pop each side over the dome and clamp down forcing the plier teeth into the space behind. With luck the teeth taper pull the pin out a tiny bit, if it does move you can try other levers, also you could grind the middle section to give flat sides that you could then mole grip and try and rotate as you also try and slide them.

 

But if you have tapped/hammered the non domed end already you may have splayed/flared the end too much and it'll never come through in which case skip to the drill

[jimjam92]

Good thread. Nice to hear about one 'coming back from the dead' for a change

[tintinmt]

If you have the time I would persist with the normal freeing options - Plusgas, WD40, heat etc. A good drift of the right dimension is good too. I had this on a Merc once and got there eventually. Good luck.

[Harris25]

Thanks for the advice but as Scooter said. I have flared one of them. Irrelevant to that though they do not want to move with as much heat and lube prior to excessive elbow grease. Im resigned to getting my cut on and ordered a drill bit as I did not have one the right size.

 

Nothing ventured nothing gained

[Dnk]

I'd take the calipers off and drill them on something like a Bridgeport turret milling machine

[Harris25]

I'd take the calipers off and drill them on something like a Bridgeport turret milling machine

 

I have actually been just stood next to 4 Bridgeports. Not sure if the company would let me put my calipers in there tho. I work as a H&S consultant and do a variety of engineering firms but its generally for medical or aerospace.

 

 

So its going to have to be a DIY job unfortunately

[Harris25]

Any opinions on the Air con delete.

 

Im looking at how its stacked up at the front. There is a my FMIC then the aircon rad before the radiator. It cannot be good for it, or am I overthinking it? Thing is I think I would use the air con but the car is going to be second car rather than a daily driver like it was before so maybe I would do without.