Jellybean Posted October 24, 2018 Share Posted October 24, 2018 (edited) Hey Car has about 172k km mileage, bpu Since I got the 264 cams installed, new oil pump,new water pump, she is using roughly 1 litre of oil every few hundred km before she used no oil There are no signs of blue smoke, she pulls like a train, breather has usual browny crap, I checked it three times over the summer, very little, 2 mm each time No consistent oil ón the drive Valve stem seals are done Rear seal was done about 10 years ago No smoke on start up or under acceleration Valve covers no oil in the spark plug well or down the side of the block, seals are relatively new Mot last weekend, emissions are very low Oil filter all secure, no oil residue Compression and leak down test showed a healthy engine Only oil residue I can see is below the intake runners behind the power steering pump and on the oil pan, rear cross member All I can think of is the oil pressure switch, but to me the consumption of 1 litre is very high even if the pressures switch is leaking To also note, when I put in 10w40 fuchs, after the cam install, she made a very tappet noise, I presume disturbing the springs may of caused an issue or weak spring, if I use 10w50 the noise goes Any ideas? Edited October 24, 2018 by Jellybean (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sheefa Posted October 24, 2018 Share Posted October 24, 2018 Unfortunately mate my old car was the same. Fully built engine and very healthy compression etc and no smoke at all on boost/idle but it drank oil like a fish. I reckon I was also going through a litre every 200 miles. I was told it it most likely how the engine was built with larger clearances and oversized pistons etc. I was also assured nothing to worry about. Thankfully it wasn't my daily or I would need to find an oil well! If it drives fine, pulls fine, doesn't smoke and tests show a healthy engine try not to worry. Just keep a spare litre in the boot like I did. Cheers Greg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rider Posted October 24, 2018 Share Posted October 24, 2018 That's a lot of oil, I have never topped up in 20 years on BPU. There are ways you can reduce oil consumption and the easiest is to go for a thicker oil. If your not running tight bearing tolerances then stepping up from a 40 to a 50 or even a 60 weight oil won't do any harm and should lower your oil consumption a fair amount. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Budz86 Posted October 24, 2018 Share Posted October 24, 2018 As above, switch to a 10-50w. Engine has had some good miles on it now, including some hard ones I'd imagine. A thicker oil will be better for protection as well as reducing consumption Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nigelboyne Posted October 25, 2018 Share Posted October 25, 2018 That's a lot of oil, I have never topped up in 20 years on BPU. There are ways you can reduce oil consumption and the easiest is to go for a thicker oil. If your not running tight bearing tolerances then stepping up from a 40 to a 50 or even a 60 weight oil won't do any harm and should lower your oil consumption a fair amount. Same never ever put a drop oil in between services always either 10w/60 or 5w/40 shell ultra. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sheefa Posted October 25, 2018 Share Posted October 25, 2018 Very different on a fully built engine guys which mine was. But yes to OP I guess you could try and feel other oil densities. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jellybean Posted October 25, 2018 Author Share Posted October 25, 2018 (edited) She never used oil previous I notice a big increase in oil consumption using a 10w40 these days versus 10w60, after putting in the 264 cams Will try some lucas oil stabiliser too That's my biggest fear Greg, getting her rebuilt and you are worse or no better off Breaking in the engine can make a big difference, was just talking to one of the guys here, common to a break in, use mineral oil for the initial break in as we all know But he was told, take it to a track, run up to 4k for 20 mins, up to 5k for 20 mins, up to 6k for 20 mins, drop the oil, new good oil, drive her as normal 1k on the road, majority will probably be at a constant rpm, prone to polishing the bores, causing oil consumption, you need the piston to be constantly changing rpm, difficult to achieve on the road with start, stopping I would like to use an engine dyno myself to break it in but hard to come by I guess going single is out the window Edited October 25, 2018 by Jellybean (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scooter Posted October 25, 2018 Share Posted October 25, 2018 Go with your first instinct, the oil pressure switch. You can see oil externally on the engine and it shows no signs of burning any then has to be worth investigating further! I think if leaking it will probably leak more at higher rpm than idle and they can leak pretty rapidly.......hopefully is this as it's a cheap fix Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scooter Posted October 25, 2018 Share Posted October 25, 2018 It can 'leak like a fountain' as below.... http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?18480-Oil-Pressure-Switch&highlight=pressure+switch Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scooter Posted October 25, 2018 Share Posted October 25, 2018 Up in the air, undertray off, look at the switch is oil visible around/below (and little/none above or rad side of it), get (trusted!) helper to turn the car on, observe, get them to rev slightly etc.....should be easy to spot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jellybean Posted October 25, 2018 Author Share Posted October 25, 2018 Up in the air, undertray off, look at the switch is oil visible around/below (and little/none above or rad side of it), get (trusted!) helper to turn the car on, observe, get them to rev slightly etc.....should be easy to spot.It's the only place on the car with oil residue, and again after a clean, behind the power steering pump and below the intake runners, all residue is on the oil pressure plug, below and side of the block I cleaned her all down last night, drove her to storage, 30 min drive but at a quick glance looked dry, it's an awkward place to visually inspect from top down Will take a look again in April, I will order a new switch It's the only thing there that can cause it The oil pan is not pressurised so, worse case is a weep but I suspect its oil from above Thanks for that! It is annoying me now, I want to fix it lol My motor tax is up on Monday, I am not paying another 400..for 3 months or for tow trucks, allegedly snowing the weekend too Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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