FilS004 Posted September 8, 2018 Share Posted September 8, 2018 Hi all Long story, my turbo broke, threw oil into my cylinder and melted a piston, so took the whole engine apart and rebuilt it. Bought some nice forged pistons and rods, some lovely aircraft quality valves, and had them fitted very professionally. They gave me the block and head back, and I put it all back together with the occasional help of a professional mechanic. Started first time, as it always has and no problems. Oil pressure good, fuel pressure good, air/fuel as expected. Still on the drive when I put it all back together, but I had an airbag fault. Took me a year to find what the fault was, but finally fixed that too. So, went for an MOT and that is where my problems start, that I am hoping some of you may be able to help me with, or at least point me in the right direction. First of all I found it wouldn't turn right, so I had to reverse it back round three corners back to my drive, but as it had sat on the drive for around four years, that wasn't that surprising. I had also added a blitz intercooler, so had to change alot of pipework, including the PS pipework, so it probably just needs bleeding (I hope). But the biggest problem was that when I was parked I touched the accellerator and it went full throttle, so I immediatley shut it off and it hasn't started since. I have measured the crank and cam sensors to the manual, I did find that I had been sold the incorrect o-rings for the injectors, which made them leak, so I thought that might be the problem, but I have fixed that with the correct o-rings (so no leaks) and still nothing. I am looking for ideas of a: why it went full throttle (throttle not sticking in any way) and b: if anyone has any ideas of what to look at and in what order. Is there a way of resetting the ECU, could that have gone screwy? (The battery is contantly disconnected when I am not working on it, so if it is just a case of diconnecting the battery for 10mins or so, then that isn't it). I have ordered a coil on plug tester, but that will be here in the week. I would be most grateful of any help or ideas. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Swampy442 Posted September 8, 2018 Share Posted September 8, 2018 That is really hard to read and understand!! But why it revved up and wouldn't stop, maybe the throttle cable is binding so it wouldn't reset, something is holding the throttle open. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FilS004 Posted September 9, 2018 Author Share Posted September 9, 2018 Hi Swampy442 The biggest issue I have is that the engine went full throttle and won't start again. Once I had turned it off, I took the intercooler pipe off and looked down the throttle body and found that the throttle was shut, so I don't think that it was the throttle cable. Also, it will not start again, so I am thinking that there must be some other issue that is causing this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FilS004 Posted September 9, 2018 Author Share Posted September 9, 2018 Hi Swampy442 The biggest issue I have is that the engine went full throttle and won't start again. Once I had turned it off, I took the intercooler pipe off and looked down the throttle body and found that the throttle was shut, so I don't think that it was the throttle cable. Also, it will not start again, so I am thinking that there must be some other issue that is causing this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scooter Posted September 9, 2018 Share Posted September 9, 2018 Is your car a vvti or non vvti? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank Bullitt Posted September 9, 2018 Share Posted September 9, 2018 I assume you checked the throttle flap to make sure it works as it should? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FilS004 Posted September 9, 2018 Author Share Posted September 9, 2018 Non vvti (It's a 93 Supra) - - - Updated - - - Yes, throttle flaps works properly and was not stuck open when the engine raced Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FilS004 Posted September 10, 2018 Author Share Posted September 10, 2018 Has anyone heard of fuel going off after 5 years? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TRD-1 Posted September 14, 2018 Share Posted September 14, 2018 Seems like it could be a massive vacuum leak, that would cause the idle to go sky high instantly (or sound like full throttle) and also possibly stop it from starting up again, check all your vacuum hoses as well as the idle control valve. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FilS004 Posted September 14, 2018 Author Share Posted September 14, 2018 Thanks TRD-1, I will look at that in the morning Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ric Posted September 14, 2018 Share Posted September 14, 2018 You know there are 2 butterfly valves in the throttle body? One is for the traction control. It's likely you only saw one and saw that it was closed, you should open one and see the other. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted September 19, 2018 Share Posted September 19, 2018 If an engine (petrol) goes to full rpm with no throttle pedal depressed it is either the throttle plate stuck somewhat open or a massive air leak on the engine side of the throttle valve, assuming it's not a fly by wire (VVTi). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Havard Posted September 19, 2018 Share Posted September 19, 2018 Has anyone heard of fuel going off after 5 years? I thought it went off in 6 - 12 months. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FilS004 Posted September 23, 2018 Author Share Posted September 23, 2018 Thanks for your information TRD-1, I removed the IAC and using the manual to test it, it clearly does not work at all (it is fully retracted), so it looks like you were right! I got onto Toyota as I didn't fancy putting a Chinese cheap one in, and they wanted £836!, so I will be scouring the net for a decent one at a decent price. The best I have found so far is an AISAN £320 (including the body part as well as the IAC) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FilS004 Posted September 23, 2018 Author Share Posted September 23, 2018 I thought it went off in 6 - 12 months. Well it has been on the drive since Oct 13 and it was starting last year, so not sure about that Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tyson Posted September 23, 2018 Share Posted September 23, 2018 Well it has been on the drive since Oct 13 and it was starting last year, so not sure about that It will still fire up an engine but the Ron rating will have dropped significantly and make it run like crap ! It might be ok on idle but on WOT it would be terrible. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FilS004 Posted September 23, 2018 Author Share Posted September 23, 2018 Ok, sounds like I need to drain it and sort it with some fresh stuff. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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