Fulcrum2000 Posted July 27, 2018 Share Posted July 27, 2018 So I've just had my oil pump done as per my ongoing problems and hopefully it will all be sorted. Apparently my oil strainer was very clogged and only half working so had that sorted too. Only thing is I normally use Castrol Edge 5w30 which i think is the best oil for a TT and due to a miscommunication they've put 10 30 Quantum in. Is anyone else using this and is it ok? I'm BPU all but BCC so I try and give it all the best it can get to make sure it stays healthy. The head stamp and Toyota both say 10 30 is the way to go so I assume its all fine but I got it from somewhere that 5 30 was the way to go these days. Anyone else had a fookayed oil strainer by the way and could this have caused/contributed to my FMS failure? The mechanic told me the oil pump that came out was a bit worn but not too bad so 25 years later thats impressive, glad I have a new one fitted now though! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scooter Posted July 27, 2018 Share Posted July 27, 2018 Basically with the TT engines (mainly) yes that can happen if people use poor oil and/or run it for too long between changes imo. The TT's give the oil a hard time and when the oil degrades over time (poor oils do so quicker) the innards of the engine can suffer in a few ways. You get sludge or carbonisation buildup, I think you mentioned the head/cams were cruddy when you had the valve stems seals done? In extreme examples (not just Toyota's its called the black death). Once things are crusty inside you can get premature wear of bits only meant to see oil (oil pump) so it all fits. It's in my opinion absolutely critical to regularly change the oil on the TT's, it's probably had a 15K stretch on a semi synthetic and crusted up a bit at some point, one of my Supra's shows some signs of this compared to the other (and it's the one with a weeping front seal and mild valve stem seal issues). I would just keep up the frequent changes from here and hope you the work you've had done means it's be fine going forward. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fulcrum2000 Posted July 27, 2018 Author Share Posted July 27, 2018 But 10 30 is surely fine for the next one till I switch back to Castrol Edge 5 30 I take it? I have been pretty religious in little stuff like this since I got it, I was going to change oil every thousand miles as mine isnt a daily driver but because of all the natural problems its developed in the 18 months since I bought it its had 3 full changes in 1500 miles so far! I am a little worried about the crust in the engine and yes all my old cars seemed to have it so whilst regular changes will likely stop it getting any worse is there any procedure to remove it? I wouldnt put any of the crap halfauds sell to clean an engine in without serious recommendation as both my mechanics say these can do more harm than good in a turbo engine. I guess the only way to get it cleaned it properly is a rebuild? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scooter Posted July 27, 2018 Share Posted July 27, 2018 Yeah I think the weight of advice is leave it alone really or full engine rebuild, I think the Supra setup means the strainer stops large items getting to the oil pump but as it's quite course mesh then oil pump can see sizeable (relatively) crud and so wears, then the oil it pumped straight to the filter so after that we should be good with fresh oil. I certainly don't think a change in the short term would hurt, but I would say every 1,000 miles going forward is excessive (especially with a fully synthetic) unless that's per annum. I'd just check the exact type of Quantum it was, loads of different ones, the 10-30 or 5-30 aspect wouldn't bother me at all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tricky-Ricky Posted July 27, 2018 Share Posted July 27, 2018 So I've just had my oil pump done as per my ongoing problems and hopefully it will all be sorted. Apparently my oil strainer was very clogged and only half working so had that sorted too. Only thing is I normally use Castrol Edge 5w30 which i think is the best oil for a TT and due to a miscommunication they've put 10 30 Quantum in. Is anyone else using this and is it ok? I'm BPU all but BCC so I try and give it all the best it can get to make sure it stays healthy. The head stamp and Toyota both say 10 30 is the way to go so I assume its all fine but I got it from somewhere that 5 30 was the way to go these days. Anyone else had a fookayed oil strainer by the way and could this have caused/contributed to my FMS failure? The mechanic told me the oil pump that came out was a bit worn but not too bad so 25 years later thats impressive, glad I have a new one fitted now though! Yes the strainer could be one of the causes of the oil pump wear as already said, and the simple fact that it could have restricted the flow would be another, the fact that there where contaminates in the oil and sump is a bad sign and as mentioned the strainer is just that its for larger particles, so anything that gets into the sump be it particles of metal from worn bearings etc or any other contaminate will first have to pass through the oil pump at least once before the filter could stop it, and if maintenance was not great in the past the filter could have been blocked and as it has a bypass anything could just get recirculated. As for the oil there is no problem with using the Quantum oil, although i would be thinking about going to a 10w40 now your BPU, most go to at least that grade but its not essential, however given the possibility that your engine may have been neglected in the past it could as a result have slightly larger bearing clearance as a result, so going one grade more viscus wouldn't hurt and may help if the resulting oil pressure is slightly low as a result. On a side note what happened with the AFR gauge? you never updated the post and it may be of benefit to others. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fulcrum2000 Posted July 27, 2018 Author Share Posted July 27, 2018 Hi Tricky Thanks for that, might go 10 40 Edge then next change. i think relistically at some point I'm going to have to go rebuild but its just getting stronger the more elements I have fixed so hopefully it will be a year or two down the line. I've heard quotes of 3k or so for a rebuild so its not too bad I guess, similar to a respray from the best place in Lincolnshire. On the AFR front, its all like dominoes with a restoration it seems. Once the oil pump is done mine will go in for a top up undersealing treatment then BCC and AFR will be fitted. but not the Juding, I sent that back as it was a gauge only, and will be getting an AEM shortly to fit at the same time as the HKS BCC. I like this one best: AEM GAUGE X-SERIES AFR WIDEBAND UEGO CONTROLLER Its one of the two makes everyone swears by so should be fine. Not sure if I need it but it can only safeguard my car and make it future proof if I want to go single or whatever. To be honest I've driven a big single though and they're not much faster and nowhere near as nice to drive as a full BPU TT in my opinion. As I say, that is just my opinion though. After all that it gets fitted with EDFC active which should make more difference to the speed than anything else I could put under the bonnet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tricky-Ricky Posted July 27, 2018 Share Posted July 27, 2018 LOL don't know what big single you have driven but if you didn't find it faster than BPU there was something wrong with it, and it shouldn't feel much different to drive apart from the power delivery. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fulcrum2000 Posted July 27, 2018 Author Share Posted July 27, 2018 Oh it was faster just not by enough to warrant the cost and I felt it struggled to get traction more than the best boy I've tried which was around 440. The single was near 600 and in drags there was so little in it it shocked me to be honest. Now there's only 2 Supras left in my town.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robin Posted July 27, 2018 Share Posted July 27, 2018 I believe 10w30 semi synthetic was the factory oil for UK supras. I still have a sticker on the car advising this. I would just change it sooner than you would a fully synthetic. My car service history shows the first 150k miles with toyota servicing who were likley just using semi synthetic oil so while quality oil is no doubt better I would not worry too much. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fulcrum2000 Posted July 27, 2018 Author Share Posted July 27, 2018 I'll give it a thou and then change it back to Edge cheers all. Mine still has that sticker too Robin! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bignum Posted July 28, 2018 Share Posted July 28, 2018 I wouldn`t get too hung up on castrol edge mate, there are much better oils out there for same money. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fulcrum2000 Posted July 28, 2018 Author Share Posted July 28, 2018 Yeah I suppose we all get a favourite oil and stick to it like white on rice but it all comes out of the ground I guess. Black gold. Texas tea.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bignum Posted July 28, 2018 Share Posted July 28, 2018 Yeah I suppose we all get a favourite oil and stick to it like white on rice but it all comes out of the ground I guess. Black gold. Texas tea.... Yes you could say that but what makes it your favorite, i mean its not even a true synthetic . I always look for esta based synthetic oil like fuchs or millers or motul. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fulcrum2000 Posted July 29, 2018 Author Share Posted July 29, 2018 Sorry got mixed up, I use Edge in my Beemer, its Magnatec I use in the Supe! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bignum Posted July 29, 2018 Share Posted July 29, 2018 Alot of car manufacturers don't recommend magnatec for turbo engines as the oil sticks in the turbo when you switch off, I wouldn't even oil a pram wheel with it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fulcrum2000 Posted July 29, 2018 Author Share Posted July 29, 2018 Thats wierd it was the one the Toyota guys used for one of my problems and the one they recommended. And it says suitable for Turbo engines on the bottle. I think we need a separate thread for this...... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fulcrum2000 Posted July 29, 2018 Author Share Posted July 29, 2018 Hi All After all my engine repairs I had Quantum 10 30 but am going to switch back to Magnatec 5/30 synth but have been told ion here ts not the right oil even though it says it is on the bottle and Toyota used it when doing one of the repairs so I am a little confused. What oil is everyone using just to confirm as if the bottle is wrong and Toyota I am a little confused. Any advice would be appreciated for my next change Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sheefa Posted July 29, 2018 Share Posted July 29, 2018 Miller's Synthetic 10w-50 for TTs mate and 10w-60 for Single Turbos. That's what is recommended by a couple of traders. http://www.millersoils.co.uk/products/cfs-10w50-nt-plus/569 Check out Opie Oils for good deals including club discount code. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Posted July 29, 2018 Share Posted July 29, 2018 We have an FAQ for this: http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?56684-FAQ-Oil-Fluid-Interval-Capacity-Steering-Brake-Coolant-Diff-Engine Merged threads as we didn't need two for the same discussion. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank Bullitt Posted July 29, 2018 Share Posted July 29, 2018 Miller's Synthetic 10w-50 for TTs mate and 10w-60 for Single Turbos. That's what is recommended by a couple of traders. http://www.millersoils.co.uk/products/cfs-10w50-nt-plus/569 Check out Opie Oils for good deals including club discount code. /QUOTE] Do you know why they chose Millers over Fuchs? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bignum Posted July 29, 2018 Share Posted July 29, 2018 I've always been good on fuchs and normally slightly cheaper than millers too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sheefa Posted July 29, 2018 Share Posted July 29, 2018 Do you know why they chose Millers over Fuchs?I don't actually mate but I know one switched from Fuchs to Millers and wouldn't go back. I used Fuchs Pro -5 for a while and was great but I found out I was using more oil. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fulcrum2000 Posted July 29, 2018 Author Share Posted July 29, 2018 Just done a check on the millers site and they recommend 5 30 10 40 for my exact model. Now I'm really confused? This is going on my exact plate and its got the engine eye right. So are you guys saying 10 50 for BPU then and killers agree with me for non BPU? - - - Updated - - - Sorry not killers Millers! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sheefa Posted July 29, 2018 Share Posted July 29, 2018 Miller's 10w-50 mate for Twin Turbo full stop. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fulcrum2000 Posted July 29, 2018 Author Share Posted July 29, 2018 Which millers 10 50 is it the silver or black bottle? I'll look into it tomorrow. Still got the actual millers site telling me 10 40 though Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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