evinX Posted July 20, 2018 Share Posted July 20, 2018 Im going to be redoing my engine bay heater hoses at the rear of the engine, and while im at it, i want to fit a bleed valve to one of the hoses. Just a nice little touch to make life somewhat more simple, What i dont know is....do i fit it to the Inlet or Outlet hose? https://s26.postimg.cc/eegp11ft5/DIAGRAM.png https://s26.postimg.cc/ucper62bd/s-l500.jpg cheers, Kev Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mk4Gaz Posted July 21, 2018 Share Posted July 21, 2018 I fitted one of those exact same bleed valves to my outlet hose. To be honest, it didn't make the system any easier to bleed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Swampy442 Posted July 21, 2018 Share Posted July 21, 2018 Fit it to the highest point Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David P Posted July 22, 2018 Share Posted July 22, 2018 (edited) An airlock issue is created on GE engine when the radiator top hose is not fitted in correct position. Edited July 22, 2018 by David P (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dnk Posted July 22, 2018 Share Posted July 22, 2018 (edited) Waste of time imo, just take rad cap off run up to temp and the system bleeds, no need for steep hills, jacking the front end up etc If it needed a bleed valve there i'd have thought Toyota would have fitted one Edited July 22, 2018 by Dnk (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ric Posted July 22, 2018 Share Posted July 22, 2018 An airlock issue is created on GE engine when the radiator top hose is not fitted in correct position. it's a bit hard to install it in the wrong position? its just 2 clamps and the hose is shaped. Long as its level its fine? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David P Posted July 22, 2018 Share Posted July 22, 2018 (edited) it's a bit hard to install it in the wrong position? its just 2 clamps and the hose is shaped. Long as its level its fine? I have come across this time and again. If the wonk in the hose is not positioned to have the highest portion at the top, the rad/head won't/can't bleed, unless you jack the front high into the air. Hey ho. Edited July 22, 2018 by David P (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dnk Posted July 22, 2018 Share Posted July 22, 2018 Don't see how you get the hose wrong, whats a wonk ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David P Posted July 22, 2018 Share Posted July 22, 2018 Don't see how you get the hose wrong, That is exactly what each person who had got it wrong said. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evinX Posted July 22, 2018 Author Share Posted July 22, 2018 My system is fine. I get hot air if needed. Just adding some more blue hoses in the bay. So while the supra is self bleeding. Fitting a nice bleed valve in the rear hoses wont hurt. Better than removing the cap and getting overflow when its just me doing it. Kev opens valve. Air comes out...then a drip of coolant. Lock the valve. Kev bled the system Outlet hose it is. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evinX Posted July 22, 2018 Author Share Posted July 22, 2018 I fitted one of those exact same bleed valves to my outlet hose. To be honest, it didn't make the system any easier to bleed. /QUOTE] But did it work? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mk4Gaz Posted July 22, 2018 Share Posted July 22, 2018 If you mean "did it bleed" then yes, but if you mean "did it make getting the air out of the entire system easier", then no. Personally I think jacking the front up is the best bet Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evinX Posted July 22, 2018 Author Share Posted July 22, 2018 Awesome. Once it bleeds thats it.Dont even do mine on an incline and it gets nice and hot to be fair. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mk4Gaz Posted July 22, 2018 Share Posted July 22, 2018 To be fair, when I had an oem rad, it bled up easily (before adding any extra bleed points in). When I swapped to an alloy rad, the problems started. Not sure if it's coincendence, but my heaters have never been as hot as they used to be. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evinX Posted July 22, 2018 Author Share Posted July 22, 2018 To be fair, when I had an oem rad, it bled up easily (before adding any extra bleed points in). When I swapped to an alloy rad, the problems started. Not sure if it's coincendence, but my heaters have never been as hot as they used to be. /QUOTE] Mine went luke warm for a while. After much checking i didnt do the obvious first. Got a new oem cap from toyota. Bled the system. All was good. Maybe your alloy rad and cap arnt agreeing? Any light coolant marks around the cap neck? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mk4Gaz Posted July 22, 2018 Share Posted July 22, 2018 Funny you should say that, as there is - although it never seems to actually be wet and leaking. I think the rad I've got is shit, and am thinking of getting a new oem one Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evinX Posted July 22, 2018 Author Share Posted July 22, 2018 Funny you should say that, as there is - although it never seems to actually be wet and leaking. I think the rad I've got is $#@!, and am thinking of getting a new oem one /QUOTE] I bet the cap isnt sealing. What cap you got? Could be the end to your luke warm rad Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mk4Gaz Posted July 22, 2018 Share Posted July 22, 2018 It came with the rad, I've never paid much attention to it! I'll measure it up, and order a replacement. I'll be chuffed if it works! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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