Bender Posted July 10, 2018 Share Posted July 10, 2018 Hi week ago when temp outside reach extremly high my supra start overheating i manage with one 15 minute stop (for cool down) get back home. As i been aware my old water pump was on its way (start leaking) so to get things right today with mu brother in law change water pump (geniue toyota) thermostat and also as i was planing that for months new mishimoto rad put the new coolant and its still the same...what we find out the botom pipe (that one which goes straight to water pump) its cold and top one its quite hot. Its is possible that new thermostat failed ? Or there is something else we can look for ? Wysłane z mojego SM-G950F przy użyciu Tapatalka Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evinX Posted July 10, 2018 Share Posted July 10, 2018 Did you test the thermostat before fitting? Is the system bled? Heater on full and rad cap off? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bender Posted July 10, 2018 Author Share Posted July 10, 2018 Did you test the thermostat before fitting? Is the system bled? Heater on full and rad cap off?We didnt test thermostat before fitting [emoji53] system bled(hope so ) heather on full and rad cap off Wysłane z mojego SM-G950F przy użyciu Tapatalka Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike2JZ Posted July 11, 2018 Share Posted July 11, 2018 Did you drive the car around before testing the upper and lower rad hoses? Sometimes just having the car idling and bleeding won't get the thermo completely open. I normally get the system bled, then go for a quick drive then check the operation of thermostat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dnk Posted July 11, 2018 Share Posted July 11, 2018 (edited) If the thermostat hasn't opened you can't bleed the system, are you getting piping hot air out the heater with it on max heat I raise the rpm if stationary bleeding to help get the temp up to open the stat, with the rad cap off and full its obvious when the stat opens as the level instantly drops then you can top it up and bleed the system with heater on max hot Edited July 11, 2018 by Dnk (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bender Posted July 11, 2018 Author Share Posted July 11, 2018 If the thermostat hasn't opened you can't bleed the system, are you getting piping hot air out the heater with it on max heat I raise the rpm if stationary bleeding to help get the temp up to open the stat, with the rad cap off and full its obvious when the stat opens as the level instantly drops then you can top it up and bleed the system with heater on max hotYes it gets piping hot out of the rad. Strange thing i put my heater on max but i only get cold air even if car catch the right temp Wysłane z mojego SM-G950F przy użyciu Tapatalka Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dnk Posted July 11, 2018 Share Posted July 11, 2018 If only cold air out the heater the system hasn't bled, did you get hot air out the heater before ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bender Posted July 11, 2018 Author Share Posted July 11, 2018 If only cold air out the heater the system hasn't bled, did you get hot air out the heater before ?Yes it was working perfectly fine Wysłane z mojego SM-G950F przy użyciu Tapatalka Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dnk Posted July 11, 2018 Share Posted July 11, 2018 Yes it was working perfectly fine Wysłane z mojego SM-G950F przy użyciu Tapatalka Think you need to check the stat is opening, the system should self bleed itself as long as you have the expansion tank connected to the rad with a working rad cap What temp rating is the stat you fitted ? should be 82c i think What pressure rating is your rad cap ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bender Posted July 11, 2018 Author Share Posted July 11, 2018 Think you need to check the stat is opening, the system should self bleed itself as long as you have the expansion tank connected to the rad with a working rad cap What temp rating is the stat you fitted ? should be 82c i think What pressure rating is your rad cap ?Everything its connect as it should i keep toping up expansion tank. Rad cap its from mishimoto as well 1.3 bar did it should be open or close durning the procedure ? Wysłane z mojego SM-G950F przy użyciu Tapatalka Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rider Posted July 11, 2018 Share Posted July 11, 2018 Check that the serpine belt isn't spinning the water pump the wrong way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dnk Posted July 11, 2018 Share Posted July 11, 2018 (edited) Check that the serpine belt isn't spinning the water pump the wrong way. Could you even fit the belt to do that ? it would have to be on the underside of the pulley to drive the water pump backwards Edited July 11, 2018 by Dnk (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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