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The mkiv Supra Owners Club

Dinitrol application and masking question


tintinmt

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I have used AV8 for many many years , it works , and is fast to do - Choose where you spray it carefully , it's a liquid and drips for a few mins - it will dry on your drive and you won't get it off , plastic sheet below or do it on gravel ( it will stain gravel but you can brush the gravel over hiding the dinitrol)

You won't get it off clothes , no matter what you wash them with so old T shirt or paper overalls , it's a mare to get off skin -gloves and if it drops on your hair - haircut may be necessary

Door panels a light spray at the top and it runs down the whole door - open them and put a cloth under the drain hole , boot floors remove the Bung / grommet at the bottom and place a rag below , when in the boot spray the rear inner wing area , and let it run down , if you can try to get into the wheel arch lips front and rear . The Lower radiator xmember is a favourite for rust , coat this area and fuel /brake lines

If it goes on exhaust , it smells for a bit but will burn off

The real problem areas are the sills and access is very hard , I have just drilled a big hole before with a hole cutter , sprayed inside and then dipped a rubber Bung in av8 and popped it in and let it dry

I'm probably the only owner of series 2/3 Jag XJ6/12 parked outside with spaceship miles and no rust !!! And a gravel drive which will also never rust , well the outline of a car bit anyway -lol

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Excellent! 'Appreciate the reinforcement around protecting things you don't want to cover.

Even though the Dinitrol scheme is fairly detailed, it still doesn't advise on what to mask except exhaust and brake discs.

Does this imply everything else can be covered I wonder?

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On rubbers it prolongs them due to a barrier for oil water UV light , road de icing salts , so basically you can cover everything bar bearings - I have covered everything diffs , driveshaft , arms , boots, calipers , brake cables wire looms connectors all with no problems at all - many times over - I have also done disc rotor (the inner part and the edge and cooling slots with no detrimental effects ) paint it on with an artists brush ) -it's fabulous on wheel inners and FMIC /oil coolers/Ali rads

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  • 3 weeks later...

More questions. I have looked at getting the underside of the vehicles 'steam' cleaned. It seems that this means a hot water pressure wash. I had a quote from a mobile guy who wanted £175 per vehicle to do them on my drive. There was no discount for taking them to him. Local tool hire companies seem to want about £170 to hire a hot water pressure washer for one day. Am I in the wrong business again?

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There is no way that anyone can effectively steam clean any car with 6 inches of ground clearance on a driveway. It needs to get up on a ramp and use a steam pressure washer. I did that to my Supra before undertaking my underside refresh and its very wet and very dirty work so probably worth paying someone that much to do but only when up on a ramp.

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The professional that I spoke to said that he would jack up the vehicle by about a foot and do each side at a time. He said that he had lances for this method. Even if I took it to him, he was going to do the same. Agreed, I would think it better to have the car up high so that you can stand underneath. So, where in Surrey (ish) can I go to have this done? Google has not given me an answer so far. And should it really cost £175?

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  • 1 month later...

In the interest of completing this thread I thought I would post what I did in the end. This is for my Toyota Crown estate - not my Supra (yet). I am not saying that this is the definitive guide - just what I decided to do, having sought advice and with facilities and budget available. I did the job in my garage at home over the inspection pit.

 

1) Remove as much trim and guards exhaust etc as possible.

2) Remove interior from boot and rear valance/bumper.

3) Remove any lose rust with brushes. (Nothing found)

4) Underside brush loose dirt and any surface rust. Special attention to dirt traps like wheel arch lips. Clean all; especially greasy areas, with brake cleaner where possible.

5) Allow to dry thoroughly.

6) Cover floor area

7) Mask body panels, brakes moving parts etc that are not to be coated..

8) Remove road wheels and place vehicle on stands.

9) Put on full body suit and glasses

10) Vehicle treated in 2 halves if access is limited.

a) Treat cavities first.

b) Treat all 4 wheel areas.

c) Treat rear underside.

d) Treat front underside.

11) Treat rust with Dinitrol 443 Zinc (Not required)

12) Inject / spray Dinitrol wax product AV25 into cavities, sills, door bottoms. Seal off any holes with grommets.

13) Spray AV8 Dinitrol to underside of vehicle to 500-1000 microns

14) Clean up with cleaning agent.

 

Required :-

Wax injection gun

Masking tape

Masking sheet

Alu foil for masking prop shafts etc

Plastic sheets to cover floor and pit walls and floor

Disposable overalls and gloves

Goggles

 

Dinitrol AV25

Dinitrol AV8

Brake cleaner

White spirit

 

There was a lot of work involved in everything except the actual application of the products.

I used over a litre of the cavity product but less than a litre of the surface treatment.

With the benefit of hindsight I would probably make 2 separate applications of the surface treatment.

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