tintinmt Posted July 4, 2018 Author Share Posted July 4, 2018 Thanks Jagman. I did see your note earlier,checked it out and I am feeling very tempted. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tintinmt Posted July 5, 2018 Author Share Posted July 5, 2018 Dinitrol have sent me a detailed scheme for their products and I have started notes for my own scheme with AV8. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jagman Posted July 5, 2018 Share Posted July 5, 2018 I have used AV8 for many many years , it works , and is fast to do - Choose where you spray it carefully , it's a liquid and drips for a few mins - it will dry on your drive and you won't get it off , plastic sheet below or do it on gravel ( it will stain gravel but you can brush the gravel over hiding the dinitrol) You won't get it off clothes , no matter what you wash them with so old T shirt or paper overalls , it's a mare to get off skin -gloves and if it drops on your hair - haircut may be necessary Door panels a light spray at the top and it runs down the whole door - open them and put a cloth under the drain hole , boot floors remove the Bung / grommet at the bottom and place a rag below , when in the boot spray the rear inner wing area , and let it run down , if you can try to get into the wheel arch lips front and rear . The Lower radiator xmember is a favourite for rust , coat this area and fuel /brake lines If it goes on exhaust , it smells for a bit but will burn off The real problem areas are the sills and access is very hard , I have just drilled a big hole before with a hole cutter , sprayed inside and then dipped a rubber Bung in av8 and popped it in and let it dry I'm probably the only owner of series 2/3 Jag XJ6/12 parked outside with spaceship miles and no rust !!! And a gravel drive which will also never rust , well the outline of a car bit anyway -lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tintinmt Posted July 5, 2018 Author Share Posted July 5, 2018 Excellent! 'Appreciate the reinforcement around protecting things you don't want to cover. Even though the Dinitrol scheme is fairly detailed, it still doesn't advise on what to mask except exhaust and brake discs. Does this imply everything else can be covered I wonder? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jagman Posted July 5, 2018 Share Posted July 5, 2018 On rubbers it prolongs them due to a barrier for oil water UV light , road de icing salts , so basically you can cover everything bar bearings - I have covered everything diffs , driveshaft , arms , boots, calipers , brake cables wire looms connectors all with no problems at all - many times over - I have also done disc rotor (the inner part and the edge and cooling slots with no detrimental effects ) paint it on with an artists brush ) -it's fabulous on wheel inners and FMIC /oil coolers/Ali rads Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tintinmt Posted July 5, 2018 Author Share Posted July 5, 2018 That tends to backup the advice from Dinitrol re their 4941 product. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tintinmt Posted July 21, 2018 Author Share Posted July 21, 2018 More questions. I have looked at getting the underside of the vehicles 'steam' cleaned. It seems that this means a hot water pressure wash. I had a quote from a mobile guy who wanted £175 per vehicle to do them on my drive. There was no discount for taking them to him. Local tool hire companies seem to want about £170 to hire a hot water pressure washer for one day. Am I in the wrong business again? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dnk Posted July 21, 2018 Share Posted July 21, 2018 I don't see how you can do it properly on your drive, i had it done years ago by a place in B'ham and the vehicle was up on a ramp and steam cleaned from underneath Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rider Posted July 21, 2018 Share Posted July 21, 2018 There is no way that anyone can effectively steam clean any car with 6 inches of ground clearance on a driveway. It needs to get up on a ramp and use a steam pressure washer. I did that to my Supra before undertaking my underside refresh and its very wet and very dirty work so probably worth paying someone that much to do but only when up on a ramp. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dnk Posted July 21, 2018 Share Posted July 21, 2018 Plus after this is done how long till its 100% moisture free ? On the vehicle i had done it was purely a pre lim to inspect the underside Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tintinmt Posted July 21, 2018 Author Share Posted July 21, 2018 The professional that I spoke to said that he would jack up the vehicle by about a foot and do each side at a time. He said that he had lances for this method. Even if I took it to him, he was going to do the same. Agreed, I would think it better to have the car up high so that you can stand underneath. So, where in Surrey (ish) can I go to have this done? Google has not given me an answer so far. And should it really cost £175? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dnk Posted July 21, 2018 Share Posted July 21, 2018 This place starts at £80 for underside wash http://www.indepthcardetailing.co.uk/under-chassis-wash/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tintinmt Posted July 21, 2018 Author Share Posted July 21, 2018 That seems more like it, except that it's a 4 hour round trip for me. Maybe I'll have to resort to telephoning local garages. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tintinmt Posted August 28, 2018 Author Share Posted August 28, 2018 In the interest of completing this thread I thought I would post what I did in the end. This is for my Toyota Crown estate - not my Supra (yet). I am not saying that this is the definitive guide - just what I decided to do, having sought advice and with facilities and budget available. I did the job in my garage at home over the inspection pit. 1) Remove as much trim and guards exhaust etc as possible. 2) Remove interior from boot and rear valance/bumper. 3) Remove any lose rust with brushes. (Nothing found) 4) Underside brush loose dirt and any surface rust. Special attention to dirt traps like wheel arch lips. Clean all; especially greasy areas, with brake cleaner where possible. 5) Allow to dry thoroughly. 6) Cover floor area 7) Mask body panels, brakes moving parts etc that are not to be coated.. 8) Remove road wheels and place vehicle on stands. 9) Put on full body suit and glasses 10) Vehicle treated in 2 halves if access is limited. a) Treat cavities first. b) Treat all 4 wheel areas. c) Treat rear underside. d) Treat front underside. 11) Treat rust with Dinitrol 443 Zinc (Not required) 12) Inject / spray Dinitrol wax product AV25 into cavities, sills, door bottoms. Seal off any holes with grommets. 13) Spray AV8 Dinitrol to underside of vehicle to 500-1000 microns 14) Clean up with cleaning agent. Required :- Wax injection gun Masking tape Masking sheet Alu foil for masking prop shafts etc Plastic sheets to cover floor and pit walls and floor Disposable overalls and gloves Goggles Dinitrol AV25 Dinitrol AV8 Brake cleaner White spirit There was a lot of work involved in everything except the actual application of the products. I used over a litre of the cavity product but less than a litre of the surface treatment. With the benefit of hindsight I would probably make 2 separate applications of the surface treatment. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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