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Dinitrol application and masking question


tintinmt

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I am looking doing a DIY application of Dinitrol.

So far I am unable to find a detailed guide on what under-body items to mask and what trim to remove.

The guides I have seen make things sound very simple and usually only mention the exhaust and brakes.

Obviously, it's a whole lot more complicated than that.

What about the diff, brake pipes, unions, rubber gaiters, bushes etc etc?

 

Does anyone have a detailed guide? or does everything just get sprayed?

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Id do the brake and fuel lines in clear waxoyl so youll see any corrosion if they start going, never been to sure on bushes but id imagine not as they coating may have petroleum and that will kill the bushes. Diff casing...dont see why not? Subframe you can do you and control arms if you wanted to.. avoiding the bushes and dust covers

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Thanks. Good shout on the clear product rather than the black stuff. Just the thought of masking every rubber bush or gaiter makes me take a step back. Maybe I'm over thinking, and you just don't point the gun at the bits you don't want to cover?

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I still have loads of Dinitrol cans ready to do similar, however after the work in the thread below at that time of the year I didn't fancy doing it (now is a great time) but got some good advice.

 

http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?344513-Under-body-cleaning&highlight=underbody

 

You could try and bag the whole hubs rather than individual bushes etc it depends on your outlook and the state of the underside. I thought mine was pretty good and so cleaned up the surface rust areas and applied some rust inhibitor stuff - I need to check it all out again. Part of me doesn't want to go to town on the underside with the black dinitrol, but if I do I would defo take some before pics and also I think I would have to mask/remove a fair few bits so it didn't just look like I'd sprayed over everything.

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Ah! Scooter - btw I spotted you in Woking the other evening by White Lion Retail park I think.

Yes, now would be a great time to do the job. Thinking out loud, at the moment I think I will apply the clear cavity product on the underside having masked the main bits. I think the black can then go on the main flat surfaces. Not forgetting the rust killer product where there is surface rust and doing the cavities themselves. Maybe another way of looking at it would be to make sure the areas that are prone to rust are treated and not worry too much about other bits? I have taken some 'before' pictures.

Cheers.

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Red or silver? But yes probably me :-)

 

I keep telling myself it's just the bloody underside of a car but then these coverings aren't coming off easily so it pays to weigh up the options. I did buy that plastic sheeting dunk recommended so I could cover the bodywork, so I think a new deep clean, some parts removal and masking and then go for it? Always interesting to hear others experiences so keep us posted on how you get on, what products you used and how you found them.

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Thanks all. Scooter - silver one.

I don't think I can contemplate removing the sub-frames and all the components that would leave the entire underside free to paint.

My thought process is around determining which areas to paint/cover so that it is effective in preventing rust, but doesn't look like a bodge.

Me dismantling a lot of the car is unlikely to go well and would certainly take a lot of time.

I should say that it is my Crown that is first in line, as it's used over winter. The Supra has made it this far without much rust proofing and lives in the garage over winter.

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If you don't start off by removing bits like vents, tank guards, heat shields and even the subframe you would be just storing up issues for the future by applying an out of sight out of mind solution to rust. As you say you aren't able to strip down the underside yourself why not approach companies who would do the work for you and some commentators here have highly recommended third party underbody tidy ups that have in some instances cost only a few hundred £. Its worthwhile looking into your options and just reconcile the higher cost with the thought you wont get yourself dirty and that you are protecting an appreciating asset.

 

If you put out a thread asking for recommended companies to do underbody restoration work that'd probably be easier to identify companies others have used than trawling through the archive.

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Thanks for the contributions. I am aware that there are firms that do this.

I was looking at doing it myself, hence the original question being 'what to mask and what to remove?'

Dinitrol have a range of products to be used in conjunction with each other; depending on the circumstances, but I fear that their promotional videos are over-simplified.

e.g they have rust killer products - presumably so that you don't just cover up existing rust creating a problem for the future.

So, I am still looking for a more comprehensive scheme with plenty of detail.

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A few members, in the more recent past, have done write up of their under body experiences. If you search the archives in the projects and Supra chat sections then that should bring a few threads that will detail products used and steps taken and include pictures to. If you search on the product names you are considering then that should point you in the right general direction.

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My advice would be as follows, try removing something easy to start with, the prop tunnel chassis brace or the exhaust heat shields (very easy to remove and the car can still be used without them if needs be. Then perhaps move on to the exhaust (if stock it'll make a massive difference to the room available) and the fuel tank guard and the plastic brake/fuel hardline covers again bar the exhaust the car could still pop down the shops if required.

 

On the body I removed the light rust I had before applying some Dinitrol coatings. On the tank cover after a good clean up of dirt and loose rust I did use the Dinitrol rust killer prior to my POR15 treatment. Basically I went with coating/treating the removable parts as an area I couldn't really mess up and later look back wishing I hadn't done it etc whereas the body I ended up being happy to leave for the time being until I was confident of my approach re part removal and exact application of substance. Rider found a perforated inner wing but I found no nastiness and so my thinking is being able to see the body surface is not necessarily a bad thing? certainly no need to rush underneath and spray anything and everything, it's lasted well with 12 years in Japan and 12 here so a gradual process suits me right now.

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I do have some of that more fluid cavity wax from Dinitrol and I see little option other than to generously spray into (genuine!) cavity sections, the holes just in front of the rear wheels I believe give openings to some otherwise sealed cavities? (someone has pointed out some holes - presumably with grommets - go straight into the car)

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Thanks for the help. As has been pointed out, the car has made it to 25 years old without additional rust protection, so a huge effort seems a little 'over the top'. I can see the sense as part of a full restoration.

I guess I am just trying to make myself feel more comfortable that the car is protected on the odd occasion I take the car out in the rain and when I leave it over winter in the garage

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Dinitrol AV8 - http://www.virginia.edu/cese/research/CPC%20Report.pdf

This is exactly what you want , see link for pictures of its leeching ability between joints - no removal of parts

It was developed years ago for aircraft , non aerosol - so you can put it in a plastic trigger sprayer (£1) and off you go , no negative effects on plastics or rubbers and can go over hoses and lines , it will protect rubber bushes and prolong life of them - just do not spray on bearings - it's not a lubricant .

Wheel wells are sprayed in the stuff , high speed water is flung off wheels into this area , deicing fluids are also flung into this area - it does exactly what you want it to do .

A golden transparent film is formed and drys in about 1 hour - a hard coating that will last years , it can be removed with a solvent and rag - it's a mission to get it off hair/clothing/hands

New allow wheels - it's perfect for the inner surfaces , leeches into bolts on 3 piece rims and gives a gloss even coating - no brake dust worries ever , 5 years later wipe off with solvent = wheels like new !!

It's cheap it's fast it's easy and it works - in one hour you can do the whole car - under the radiator is a good spot and the lower radiator,FMIC Ali won't corrode - it's not the prettiest stuff, better on brand new surfaces as it traps dirt on surfaces -but over existing black under seals barely visible -

Lazy mans corrosion protection - exactly what you are looking for

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