Supra374 Posted June 23, 2018 Share Posted June 23, 2018 My supra has sat for over a year in different body shops but I was told it started to leak oil some where from the gearbox tho only when the car is running. I drove the car home last nite and the car won’t change gear but goes into first and drives in first and goes into reverse. Can anyone help me with this problem please Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AC93 Posted June 23, 2018 Share Posted June 23, 2018 Is that only in D? What happens if you shift from L to 2? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supra374 Posted June 23, 2018 Author Share Posted June 23, 2018 Still the same just stays in first tho I did hit the manual button and I think it jumped into second once for a few seconds then back to first ( don’t quote me on that I might be mistaken) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supra374 Posted June 24, 2018 Author Share Posted June 24, 2018 Help still needed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jagman Posted June 24, 2018 Share Posted June 24, 2018 Oil leak can allow air into the system , the fluid can then aerate inside the box , this can lower the line pressure and it needs this pressure to shift So first bleed the fluid - add fluid via dipstick and pump out the old fluid into a bucket - fill the system and check while running , then retest the shift Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supra374 Posted June 24, 2018 Author Share Posted June 24, 2018 Will try that but what gear oil do I need to get Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jagman Posted June 24, 2018 Share Posted June 24, 2018 ATF - not gear oil , Toyota do their own but dextron works - disconnect line from bottom of radiator and put it in a bucket - put a tube in dipstick to your new fluid bottle - start engine and pour in fresh fluid as the fluid is pumped out the bottom . Once nice clean fluid is pumped out - stop , top up to dipstick marks . Check for the leak , probably best do this before filling and after . You have no warning lights like OD flashing so , no faults are being seen by the ECU ( it's not possible for the ECU to see an oil leak or fluid aerating) The line pressure varies on throttle position and speed of the gearbox turning , so shift is dependent on these , Ie wrong throttle position gives wrong shift or no shift due wrong line pressure , but the fluid must be correct level and air free to start with Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jagman Posted June 24, 2018 Share Posted June 24, 2018 When under the car - check the selector arm is correct - there is a red line and marks that align ie when you select D the gearbox is in D and so on Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supra374 Posted June 24, 2018 Author Share Posted June 24, 2018 Will do guys and thanks for the help. I do have the hand brake light come on when I start to drive it, is that a fault Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scooter Posted June 24, 2018 Share Posted June 24, 2018 Will do guys and thanks for the help. I do have the hand brake light come on when I start to drive it, is that a fault /QUOTE] The handbrake light is the main warning light. If you turn on your ignition do all the warning lights both sides of the dash light up and then go off when you start the engine. Sometimes one or more of the lights can be out due to dry solder. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supra374 Posted June 24, 2018 Author Share Posted June 24, 2018 They all go off then when U drive it comes back on Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supra374 Posted June 24, 2018 Author Share Posted June 24, 2018 This one ok Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mk4Gaz Posted June 24, 2018 Share Posted June 24, 2018 Use atf type IV. This stuff works well: https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F302160783661 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Posted June 24, 2018 Share Posted June 24, 2018 If the oil change doesn’t work open up your ecu check for blown capacitors.mine wouldn’t shift into OD it was the ecu . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
and1c Posted June 24, 2018 Share Posted June 24, 2018 As above, get the ECU checked before massively going to town on other fault finding. There is more on the forum about known issues if you search a bit Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supra374 Posted June 25, 2018 Author Share Posted June 25, 2018 Thanks for all the help guys but I think I will just go ahead now and fit the manual box conversion rather than waste money on trying to find the problem throwing money away. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mk4Gaz Posted June 25, 2018 Share Posted June 25, 2018 I recently converted back to auto from manual, because I'm gay and prefer the auto trans........... But After refitting and bleeding the auto trans fluid, the car would move under its own power for a few feet, and then stop. When rechecking the fluid level, it took about another litre to fully top it up, and it's been perfect ever since. Also, I had an issue with the trac light blinking, and no manu mode. Opon checking my ecu, I found it was leaking brown fluid from one of the plugs. I've since fitted a replacement ecu, and it's been perfect ever since. This might not help you, but I'd recommend checking both the ecu and fluid levels Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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