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PB Brakes myth busted!! 😁


jazzy69

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WOW - that's sparked up a bit!!

 

Those of you who've been on here long enough would remember the debate about PB Brakes - Some strong opinions out there!?

 

Anyway -

Nope not a trader or affiliated with PB Brakes in any way shape or form. I originally followed the thread about their brakes and how much 'talkers' had so many negative things to say. Maybe it is down to the type of tyre, size of disc/caliper or whether you track your car or not, but for me it was simply down to braking performance in comparison to the other big brake set ups I've had before on my other Supra's??

 

....And yes, I do think they look good too but they also have the performance to back up the looks!! :D :D

I don't know anyone who'd want ugly boring looking brakes behind big wheels that don't perform????

 

Yes of course it'll be down to one's personal preference and obviously through trial/error but seeing as none of you have tried this set up and I have, then how can you blast off negative comments and laugh at it when you haven't done it - that said - each to their own I guess?

 

I wanted a big brake set up that worked and these do, yes the UK brakes are good once you've upgraded your pads but they're still spongy and fade under constant use. Yes these look a lot like the K2's but they're not K2's, yes Brembo's are great brakes but they are much more expensive and a little spongy too. No matter what brakes you have someone somewhere will always have something negative/positive to say about them - usually the people who go with hearsay or who just like to put their 2p worth in.

 

I've done this thread so that other Supra owners can have another option of a big brake kit at a great price that has been tried and tested and not just 'talked about' by haters and sceptics. There are many owners out there who want a decent set of brakes, who don't or can't afford to track the crap out of their cars or drive like lunatics on the roads but who simply want a big brake set up that works - these do!!

 

I'm simply telling it as it is through experience for those who want to try something new but are afraid of doing it because the talkers always talk about what the doers do or might do!! I remember a thread about Rota Alloys and how crap they were supposed to be - funny how so many Jap cars have them these days and how popular they are - they too started with haters and sceptics!!!

 

I'll leave this one with you guys to debate over but I guess until you've tried it all you can do is talk about it?? :eyebrows::eyebrows:

 

It's a real shame that not one of you has looked at this in a positive/possible way forward for other Supra owners willing to take a gamble even when I've stated how well the brake kit works??? :(

 

I'll be selling off lots of parts soon.... UK brakes, UK Diff internals, Blitz Nur Spec Turbo back exhaust, Toucan Display unit, Apexi, Blitz, F Con units etc....(I'm sure there'll be a lot of positive interest now) ;):D:eyebrows:

 

I'm interested in a uk break set up, if they are in fine shape, as mine need a refurb .

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Its a shame your not nearer to me as i'd like to see how good they are and not just dismiss them

with zero info

 

I was actually very happy with my UK spec set up as far as road use goes, i'd love to see a back to

back test on similar cars using same wheels & tyres on same piece of tarmac, one with UK spec set up

and one with your PB set up, just a simple 100 - 0 test would do for me :)

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Its a shame your not nearer to me as i'd like to see how good they are and not just dismiss them

with zero info

 

I was actually very happy with my UK spec set up as far as road use goes, i'd love to see a back to

back test on similar cars using same wheels & tyres on same piece of tarmac, one with UK spec set up

and one with your PB set up, just a simple 100 - 0 test would do for me :)

 

Its been proved even the best BBK won`t stop you any faster than stock uk setup with uprated pads etc, its repeated stops from speed where the bbk comes into its own.

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That would be because no matter how you try to sugar coat it, in the cold light of day you are talking boll@cks.

 

Come back with some real proven data, none of this my “mate said cr@p” and you will get a decent response.

 

Wow what a touchy group!! 

 

Yes I’ve been a member for ten years plus but I’ve been on the site much much longer. I’m not here to challenge anyone about their own brake up, I’m putting information forward about a post that had raised a lot of questions about PB Brakes in the past!! 樂

 

Now, if you’ve not heard of them then fine as it may have been before your time on the site, but there are some members who have and have probably yet to read this post, waiting to respond or simply not interested. Just because you haven’t heard of them doesn’t mean they don’t exist or are rubbish!? 狼

 

Yes I’m happy about this and yes I’m saying these are great brakes. I’m raving about it because I’ve owned a good few Supra’s with supposedly good brakes and in my opinion (nothing to do with my “mate said cr@p” if you'd bother to read the info correctly you’d be aware it was from my own personal experience) This is what I think and yes I’m excited to share it. To say I’m talking boll@cks is the sort of uneducated statement a Neanderthal would express (if you really want to get personal) 易

Taken on board re proven data (a more sensible and gentlemanly approach with reference to the point in hand and not a personal opinion of my compilation of words through experience) 來

When I’m not working abroad on a weekend I’ll happily compile some video footage, until then please keep your opinions focused on the point at hand, if you have nothing constructive to say then simply say nothing!! 

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Opinions, personal views on performance are not worth a dime.

 

What does make a difference is solid engineering data.

 

Brake temperatures after pedal applications at specific load, brake pressure and speed, fade resistance, component quality, material specifications and compounds, manufacturing methods, vehicle NVH, run out measurements of brake discs after 'x' applications...the list goes on...

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Opinions, personal views on performance are not worth a dime.

 

What does make a difference is solid engineering data.

 

Brake temperatures after pedal applications at specific load, brake pressure and speed, fade resistance, component quality, material specifications and compounds, manufacturing methods, vehicle NVH, run out measurements of brake discs after 'x' applications...the list goes on...

 

At last - a few members with sensibly calculated and thought out answers minus any personal assassinations - thank you harryww89, Dnk and bignum. Your answers are what other members like and want to see.

 

Debates are always healthy as they help to determine change, thought processes, awareness and forward planning. When debates leak into personal degradations then they are no longer debates but personal issues or forms of attack which inconveniently detract from the point at hand. We don’t need facilitators here, we just need to be civil and address this in a civilised way!!

 

The recent challenges/suggestions to the posed questions offer multiple scenarios and thought/fact based solutions/possibilities. At the very least, the logic based questions on the scenarios raised (thanks harryww89) are fabulous and now give weight to varying scenarios!!! Super replies guys - thank you!! 🙏

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Its been proved even the best BBK won`t stop you any faster than stock uk setup with uprated pads etc, its repeated stops from speed where the bbk comes into its own.

 

That surprises me unless the UK set up can trigger the ABS in a max hard dry stop.

 

I get the repeated stops being better but thats only going to happen on track, with new UK OE discs pads and Motul RBF fluid i had no problems on track but probably wasn't pushing it hard enough lap after lap

Edited by Dnk (see edit history)
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What pad shape do they use? In other words do the calipers use a common pad outline giving a choice of manufacturers and compounds? Can you buy spare seals and pistons? How much if so? How much are replacement discs and bells, and bell fastening hardware? Thanks, I have been on here a long time and don't recall this brand being mentioned before. Is there a UK agent for them?

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I get the repeated stops being better but thats only going to happen on track, with new UK OE discs pads and Motul RBF fluid i had no

problems on track but probably was pushing it hard enough lap after lap

 

I have it happen on the road regularly, and had it happen again on Dragonball. I have UK brakes all round, braided lines, Motol RBF600 fluid, and Porterfield R4 Race pads. I'm going to move over to K-Sports so I can run bigger brakes that won't heat soak as much, give a firmer pedal feel, and mainly so I can run the Performance Friction Pads.

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I have it happen on the road regularly, and had it happen again on Dragonball. I have UK brakes all round, braided lines, Motol RBF600 fluid, and Porterfield R4 Race pads. I'm going to move over to K-Sports so I can run bigger brakes that won't heat soak as much, give a firmer pedal feel, and mainly so I can run the Performance Friction Pads.

 

Can honestly say i've never had it happen on the road and only once on a track day but i put

that down to rather old brake fluid that boiled due to lots of moisture in it

 

Always had a good pedal in my car too

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I have it happen on the road regularly, and had it happen again on Dragonball. I have UK brakes all round, braided lines, Motol RBF600 fluid, and Porterfield R4 Race pads. I'm going to move over to K-Sports so I can run bigger brakes that won't heat soak as much, give a firmer pedal feel, and mainly so I can run the Performance Friction Pads.

 

 

Pad fade or fluid fade?

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Can honestly say i've never had it happen on the road and only once on a track day but i put

that down to rather old brake fluid that boiled due to lots of moisture in it

 

Always had a good pedal in my car too

 

I drive like a twat though, so it usually happens after 130+ repeated stops for roundabouts, they are useless after 2-3 of those, where my friends K-Sports are still going strong. One off the clock stop on DB was all they could take, and they didn't like that at all! Just heat soaked and faded near the end of the stop.

 

Pad fade or fluid fade?

 

Brand new RBF600 fluid, and I've set two sets of your fast road pads nearly on fire in the past, get them out to check them after and they just crumble like dust :/ lol Like I say, I know I drive like a twat, and ask way to much of the brakes, but compared to K-Sports, they will fade less quickly from what I've seen compared to my UK's.

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On track brake torture on most proper circuits is a lot less than repeated stops from 130 to roundabout manoeuvring speeds with little recovery time. You would need specialist compounds, specialist fluid like SRF and much improved cooling, maybe even water cooled calipers to meet such usage. Your definition of fast road goes beyond what most envisage ;) I'd be more worried about my licence than the brakes Maniac! ;)

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This is the thing with brakes, there are far more Dunks than Burna's I'd say so brake kits are often over the top/unnecessary.

 

My best performance brakes on the Supra were J specs and CW race pads, I've currently got J specs on both my cars and live with them fine, even though I have x2 UK fronts sets and 1 brand new rear UK set in the garage/shed I could fit.

 

Pads and fluid make loads of difference on their own regardless of calliper size/type. ie j specs, race pads and fluid will be more fade resistant than UK's stock pads and fluid.

Edited by Scooter (see edit history)
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On track brake torture on most proper circuits is a lot less than repeated stops from 130 to roundabout manoeuvring speeds with little recovery time. You would need specialist compounds, specialist fluid like SRF and much improved cooling, maybe even water cooled calipers to meet such usage. Your definition of fast road goes beyond what most envisage ;) I'd be more worried about my licence than the brakes Maniac! ;)

 

Chris are you saying Burna is beyond help :)

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On track brake torture on most proper circuits is a lot less than repeated stops from 130 to roundabout manoeuvring speeds with little recovery time. You would need specialist compounds, specialist fluid like SRF and much improved cooling, maybe even water cooled calipers to meet such usage. Your definition of fast road goes beyond what most envisage ;) I'd be more worried about my licence than the brakes Maniac! ;)

 

Haha "Maniac!" made me laugh, but true :innocent: I was actually going to go with SRF fluid next time! And look into ducted cooling like what Mark Dance has done recently. But you are completely right, I'm asking waaay too much, and there perhaps needs to be the terms 'fast road' and 'Twat Burna fast road' :rlol:

 

This is the thing with brakes, there are far more Dunks than Burna's I'd say so brake kits are often over the top/unnecessary.

 

Totally agree, for the norm, UK's are hard to beat, I'm just looking for that extra bit.

 

Chris are you saying Burna is beyond help :)

 

Everyone here knows I'm beyond help! :rlol:

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I boiled my motul 660 fluid @Silverstone last year and have issues with PF race pads crumbling so just got a great deal on some bigger touring car discs to have a play about with.

 

Larger discs will dissipate heat better simply via a larger surface area , but forced air cooling would work far better , a simple elect fan (£30) some flexi duct pipe and most critically a means of directing the air exactly onto the disc centre - some bracket/mounting on the dust plate ,the closer to the disc the better -

The negatives are few, mainly extra heat is pushed into your wheel rim and heats tyres but this will vary depending on clearance of your wheels ,spoke design and a host of things beyond your control - lots go bigger at large cost , few add extra forced cooling at low cost

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Larger discs will dissipate heat better simply via a larger surface area , but forced air cooling would work far better , a simple elect fan (£30) some flexi duct pipe and most critically a means of directing the air exactly onto the disc centre - some bracket/mounting on the dust plate ,the closer to the disc the better -

The negatives are few, mainly extra heat is pushed into your wheel rim and heats tyres but this will vary depending on clearance of your wheels ,spoke design and a host of things beyond your control - lots go bigger at large cost , few add extra forced cooling at low cost

Hi, yes got a few ideas going on, I already have air piped to the back of the discs albeit from fairly small 65mmish collectors mounted in my front air dam, I'm sure these work as wear on the inside of the disc and pad is less than the outside whereas on my brothers car it's the other way round.

 

 

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Uk brakes are good but the stock pads are shocking. Repeated hard stops cook them. Im not sure what lines I’m running (probably stock) but I’ve got ATE racing fluid. Next upgrade will be pads and a full alignment to stop what I think is causing the shaking from speed.

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