Engine Removal, will the auto box clear the crossmember?

[Shortacus]

Hi all,

 

Just about to pull the engine and box out of my supra, spun a bearing and going to rebuild the engine.

 

I've read most of the threads on here on removing the beast and so far I reckon I'm good to go.

 

Syvecs ecu piggy back was a nightmare as I have now had to remove the harness from the engine rather than through the bulkhead.

 

Ill hopefully get a write up of it posted when done incase it helps anyone in future...

 

So my question I need help with is, will the auto box clear the crossmember or do I need to remove this? I have a bolt rounded on it and for the life of me I can't get it out. I'd need to drop the wishbones to get in at the other bolts I'm sure?

 

I can't see anyone in any other thread so far saying to remove it or not to remove it.

 

Any help is appropriated, thanks

 

Ross

[Gpro]

I removed a 2JZ and installed a new one literally 2 weeks ago and no you won't have to remove the crossmember. The engine with gearbox will clear it without any issues. Regarding the wiring loom, I disconnected all the plugs from the engine and left it to one side (didn't bother trying to pull it all out via the firewall).

 

I presume you already removed the radiator for more clearance?

[Shortacus]

Thanks for the quick reply mate, it's all good to go bar this, box is supported on a jack, bumper, rad the lot has been removed.

 

Thought I only had the two engine mounts to go till I had second thoughts on the crossmember.

 

Ill get it supported and disconnect the mounts, hopefully be back with good news in an hour or so!

[Shortacus]

Got it out and got the box separated, now on to the torque converter - are they always bolted to the flywheel?

[Scooter]

Quote from Chris Wilson re autobox refitting

 

"As Dnk says, are you sure it's red ATF??? If it is I would examine the neck of the torque converter where it enters the gearbox oil pump for scratches, scores or wear grooves. How are you fitting the gearbox and torque converter exactly? If you do it wrong you WILL damage the new pump seal.... The TC *MUST* be put into the gearbox oil pump, turned until the slots in the TC neck align with the oil pump drive dogs, and the TC goes right into the bellhousing, then the gearbox and TC *AS A UNIT* must be offered to the engine. (Or the engine offered to the auto box). Some people bolt the TC to the flex plate and try and fit the gearbox onto the TC. Doomed to failure and damage. EXPENSIVE damage!"

[Scooter]

Possibly a bit late now, but some good info for refitting, you have hopefully caused no damage so far....

 

http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?303649-How-to-guide-Removing-Automatic-Transmission&highlight=torque+converter

[Shortacus]

Possibly a bit late now, but some good info for refitting, you have hopefully caused no damage so far....

 

http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?303649-How-to-guide-Removing-Automatic-Transmission&highlight=torque+converter

 

I've left the tc attached to the engine for today - thanks for the link, I'll make sure I remove the bolts to the tc correctly and then follow the above steps for refitting for the oil seal.

 

Thanks!

[Scooter]

no problem best of luck with it all!

[Shortacus]

Hope fully get the answer to this in the same thread save creating a new one... Is anyone aware of a bolt replacement kit or does the forum have a breakdown of the sizes to replace when removing the drivetrain ( forgive the lack of searching, I will do it - I'm just staring at my engine on a pallet as we speak desperate to get the car back out for the sun.... We don't get it often in Scotland )

 

I've ordered a new oil pump and waterpump, the engine had single work done to it around 2k miles ago ( previous owner) so Ive been told the valve stem seals have been done and the head gasket has been replaced with arp studs also.

 

Is there anything else people would recommend changing / overhauling when you have the engine and gearbox out?

 

Thanks again,

 

Ross