Milo500 Posted April 12, 2018 Author Share Posted April 12, 2018 "You also have another electronic issue that has lowered the engine rpm limit." As I have already pointed out there is a Rpm limiter that is to do with the park /neutral/ drive selection and I think it's around 5000 rpm - even if the box selects gears and the engine starts if the ecu thinks it's in park the limiter kicks in . The ECU has a few "limiters" each at a different rpm and each for a different reason and they do not always show up on self test of the ECU Thanks, do you know what the common reasons are for the ecu thinking it is in park/neutral? I presume this has happened to people. Just to add to the info list...the car doesn't bring up any codes and there is no dash lights saying anything is wrong. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David P Posted April 12, 2018 Share Posted April 12, 2018 Hi David. I have read that, and 're read it again to make sure I didn't miss anything. The aristo box I bought didn't come with one of the speed sensors (on the right hand side of the box when looking at the tail shaft end). So I had to take it out of the old tt box. As it is now doing the same thing it was doing before I changed the box, is what is making me think that it could be that speed sensor, as it is the only part I took from the old box The Aristo and T.T. no.2 speed sensor is and are the same thing, it's the pairs of gears beneath them that are different, it's all explained in the links I gave you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jagman Posted April 12, 2018 Share Posted April 12, 2018 Thanks, do you know what the common reasons are for the ecu thinking it is in park/neutral? I presume this has happened to people. Just to add to the info list...the car doesn't bring up any codes and there is no dash lights saying anything is wrong. The most common issues with the limiters are when swapping to a manual gearbox but still using the autobox ecu , plugs disconnected on the gearbox that need a signal ,but anything is possible once wiring is disturbed ie ecu piggybacked or connectors disconnected and reconnected -a simple check at the ecu pin for correct earth or voltage is required Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Milo500 Posted April 12, 2018 Author Share Posted April 12, 2018 The most common issues with the limiters are when swapping to a manual gearbox but still using the autobox ecu , plugs disconnected on the gearbox that need a signal ,but anything is possible once wiring is disturbed ie ecu piggybacked or connectors disconnected and reconnected -a simple check at the ecu pin for correct earth or voltage is required Ahh ok thanks...if it did it right after I changed the box then that would be a good shout, however it started randomly doing it about am inch before the gearbox change Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Milo500 Posted April 12, 2018 Author Share Posted April 12, 2018 The Aristo and T.T. no.2 speed sensor is and are the same thing, it's the pairs of gears beneath them that are different, it's all explained in the links I gave you. Ahh ok, in that case, can the sensor go bad and cause this sort of issue? If not then I will just sort this issue and will swap the gears in the future as I still have the tt box Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David P Posted April 12, 2018 Share Posted April 12, 2018 (edited) I have yet to come across a failed speed sensor. But if the one that you fitted still had the TT driven-gear attached to the back of it, this will have been shredded against an un-matching internal Aristo drive-gear. Nevertheless, if the sensor that you fitted was fitted to/with the Aristo driven-gear, all will be well, other than gear-changes happening up to 100rpm sooner than was with T.T. box, because of different speed information, not rpm. If your speedometer appears to be working correctly, you have a matching pair of Aristo gears behind your speed sensor. If your speedometer doesn't work, would be because T.T. driven-gear doesn't mesh properly with internal Aristo drive-gear. Changing the internal drive-gear is a simple enough job up on a ramp or over a pit. Edited April 13, 2018 by David P (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ric Posted April 13, 2018 Share Posted April 13, 2018 I have done everything people have suggested bar the coil packs...that is because I have not got round to getting a set to borrow yet. So you've changed to new coil pack clips? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Milo500 Posted April 13, 2018 Author Share Posted April 13, 2018 I have yet to come across a failed speed sensor. But if the one that you fitted still had the TT driven-gear attached to the back of it, this will have been shredded against an un-matching internal Aristo drive-gear. Nevertheless, if the sensor that you fitted was fitted to/with the Aristo driven-gear, all will be well, other than gear-changes happening up to 100rpm sooner than was with T.T. box, because of different speed information, not rpm. If your speedometer appears to be working correctly, you have a matching pair of Aristo gears behind your speed sensor. If your speedometer doesn't work, would be because T.T. driven-gear doesn't mesh properly with internal Aristo drive-gear. Changing the internal drive-gear is a simple enough job up on a ramp or over a pit. Yea the speedometer works perfectly - - - Updated - - - So you've changed to new coil pack clips? I have not, the coil packs and clips are the things I haven't done yet. I do plan on doing that asap, but it rev limits perfectly at 4.9k every time, would be weird if it misfired from the coil packs at the exact same point every time? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Milo500 Posted April 29, 2018 Author Share Posted April 29, 2018 I have now changed in new coil packs and wired new connectors. It now revs past 5k all the way up to red line and changes gear etc, but is like it's got a boost leak. I found one but still feels like there might be another, but it feels like a miss fire. Drives fautlesley on anything under full throttle though. So the packs or connectors were part of the problem...but it still misses on full throttle. It's now running 1.5 bar again, not 0.6, however, it defimeylu isn't making around the 500 mark, feel more like 350, so I think it has to be a boost leak. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ric Posted April 29, 2018 Share Posted April 29, 2018 if your making 1.5bar it's probably not a boost leak id expect perhaps the wrong kind of plugs perhaps? From the FAQ Single Turbo/Big Twins @ upto 1.8bar NGK - BCR8ES - gap 0.6-0.7mm NGK - BKR8E - gap 0.6-0.7mm NGK Iridium - BKR8EIX - leave gap alone Denso Iridium - IK27 - leave gap alone Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Milo500 Posted April 29, 2018 Author Share Posted April 29, 2018 if your making 1.5bar it's probably not a boost leak id expect perhaps the wrong kind of plugs perhaps? From the FAQ Single Turbo/Big Twins @ upto 1.8bar NGK - BCR8ES - gap 0.6-0.7mm NGK - BKR8E - gap 0.6-0.7mm NGK Iridium - BKR8EIX - leave gap alone Denso Iridium - IK27 - leave gap alone Yea, that is what I have done haha, I had -7 in there before, and have changed to the copper -8 ngk....so isn't that unfortunately:( Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Burna Posted April 30, 2018 Share Posted April 30, 2018 -8 are too extreme I personally think. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Milo500 Posted April 30, 2018 Author Share Posted April 30, 2018 -8 are too extreme I personally think. Fair enough, I only changed them as it is what it says in the supra spark plug thread Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Milo500 Posted May 14, 2018 Author Share Posted May 14, 2018 Still unsolved Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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