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The mkiv Supra Owners Club

Auto Gearbox full flush


jackso11

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I am going to flush out the gearbox fully, change the filter and refill with new toyota fluid. Couple of quick questions that I have been searching for and can't find definative answers to that i thought it would help future searchers to have in one place too:

 

1) How much fluid should I have on stand by to do the flush? Not how many L does the box hold, but how many will I need to get it fully flushed through.

 

2) What order should I do it in? I don't really want to take the sump off, change the filter, then pump all the old crap out through the new filter while doing the flush. But equally I don't want to flush it all through then lose 2L or so taking the sump off to change the filter.

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Ok so the answer to my first question is in there in a thread I had actually bookmarked but not fully read. For anyone else who finds this...

 

'pour 6.5 litres N/A (total volume 7.2 litres) or 7.5 litres T.T. (total volume 8.2 litres)' - then drop out the old 6L or so and top up, so probably 10L will be needed on standby.

 

But what about my second question? Is there no way to change the filter without losing a couple of litres of clean oil? i.e. Do the oil flush and then take the sump off and change the filter?

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You drain the sump and drop it before anything to replace the filter. Once its all back on and cured. Overfill the box with a good few litres...flush it at the cooling line then fillto the full mark. DavidP has it all on his group page. Dont go into thinking its going to be a simple task. Because its not and very time consuming.

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Transmission strainer change and full flush instructions.

 

http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/group.php?discussionid=188&pp=10&page=1&do=discuss

 

For dipsticks who can't cope with information that is presented more than one sentence at a time.

 

Here translated into 37 text grunts.

 

 

Things

 

1. 10 litres of ATF Dexron III

2. New strainer

3. Tube of RTV

4. Brake cleaner

5. 10mm & 14mm socket & ratchet

6. Hammer

7. Broad wood chisel or proper sump removal tool

8. Torque wrench

9. Drip tray

10. Jack

11. Pliers or screwdriver? to undo fluid line

12. Roll of mechanics wipe

13. Bucket

14. Level hard-standing

15. 4 x axle stands

 

 

How to

 

1. Jack up car

2. Use 14mm spanner to undo drain plug

3. Drain old ATF into drip tray

4. Use 10mm socket & ratchet to undo pan bolts

5. Use hammer and wood chisel or proper tool to break seal on pan

6. Clean magnets with mechanics wipe

7. Good idea to remove solenoids and clean them with brake cleaner whilst you are in there

8. Good idea to check torque on valve-body bolts whilst you're in there, 7ftlb

9. Use 10mm socket for changing strainer and checking valve-body bolts

10. Use torque wrench to tighten strainer bolts to 7ftlb

11. Use chisel to clean off old RTV

12. Use brake cleaner to degrease sealant faces

13. Apply a 6mm bead of RTV to sump

14. Replace sump bolts torqued to 6.5ftlb

15. Pour 6.5 litres of ATF into dipstick tube

16. Remove ATF "flow" line from cooler and hold over bucket

17. Start engine and run until fresh fluid can be seen

18. Have an assistant pour in another litre whilst the engine is running

19. Turn off engine and reconnect pipe

20. Top up transmission to the correct mark on dipstick

21. Text your mum and ask her to wipe your arse

22. Sign up for an evening class in adult literacy

Edited by David P (see edit history)
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But what about my second question? Is there no way to change the filter without losing a couple of litres of clean oil? i.e. Do the oil flush and then take the sump off and change the filter?

 

I can’t tell if you are being serious or not.

 

If you drain the old oil out then flush/refill with new oil you are using the old oil filter with the new oil. This aside how do you plan on removing the sump to change the filter when it is full of new oil?

 

I’m not surprised David gets so pi55ed off.

 

He needs a medal :trophy: for putting up with these sorts of questions or at the very least a thank you for taking the time to write it all down. Even that is usually too much to ask as most people don’t have any manners.

Edited by Frank Bullitt
Spelling. (see edit history)
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I can’t tell if you are being serious or not.

 

If you drain the old oil out then flush/refill with new oil you are using the old oil filter with the new oil. This aside how do you plan on removing the sump to change the filter when it is full of new oil?

 

I’m not surprised David gets so pi55ed off.

 

He needs a medal :trophy: or at the very least a thank you for taking the time to write it all down but even that is usually too much to ask.

 

Yea on the subjet of mrP, hes always there when we need him.

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Transmission strainer change and full flush instructions.

 

http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/group.php?discussionid=188&pp=10&page=1&do=discuss

 

For dipsticks who can't cope with information that is presented more than one sentence at a time.

 

Here translated into 37 text grunts.

 

 

Things

 

1. 10 litres of ATF Dexron III

2. New strainer

3. Tube of RTV

4. Brake cleaner

5. 10mm & 14mm socket & ratchet

6. Hammer

7. Broad wood chisel or proper sump removal tool

8. Torque wrench

9. Drip tray

10. Jack

11. Pliers or screwdriver? to undo fluid line

12. Roll of mechanics wipe

13. Bucket

14. Level hard-standing

15. 4 x axle stands

 

 

How to

 

1. Jack up car

2. Use 14mm spanner to undo drain plug

3. Drain old ATF into drip tray

4. Use 10mm socket & ratchet to undo pan bolts

5. Use hammer and wood chisel or proper tool to break seal on pan

6. Clean magnets with mechanics wipe

7. Good idea to remove solenoids and clean them with brake cleaner whilst you are in there

8. Good idea to check torque on valve-body bolts whilst you're in there, 7ftlb

9. Use 10mm socket for changing strainer and checking valve-body bolts

10. Use torque wrench to tighten strainer bolts to 7ftlb

11. Use chisel to clean off old RTV

12. Use brake cleaner to degrease sealant faces

13. Apply a 6mm bead of RTV to sump

14. Replace sump bolts torqued to 6.5ftlb

15. Pour 6.5 litres of ATF into dipstick tube

16. Remove ATF "flow" line from cooler and hold over bucket

17. Start engine and run until fresh fluid can be seen

18. Have an assistant pour in another litre whilst the engine is running

19. Turn off engine and reconnect pipe

20. Top up transmission to the correct mark on dipstick

21. Text your mum and ask her to wipe your arse

22. Sign up for an evening class in adult literacy

 

 

P.S. If you try to pour in the whole 8 litres, it will come out of the vent at the top and make a mess on your dads drive.

Edited by David P (see edit history)
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The only thing i'd add is do it on a ramp, its a messy enough job as it is and i can't imagine

how little fun it would be lying on your back trying to do it.

 

My local garage is £40 phr and i get a mechanic and a ramp for that :)

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The only thing i'd add is do it on a ramp, its a messy enough job as it is and i can't imagine

how little fun it would be lying on your back trying to do it.

 

My local garage is £40 phr and i get a mechanic and a ramp for that :)

 

Thats bloody expensive when you have to consider drainage time and time for the rtv to set.

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I can’t tell if you are being serious or not.

 

If you drain the old oil out then flush/refill with new oil you are using the old oil filter with the new oil. This aside how do you plan on removing the sump to change the filter when it is full of new oil?

 

I’m not surprised David gets so pi55ed off.

 

He needs a medal :trophy: for putting up with these sorts of questions or at the very least a thank you for taking the time to write it all down. Even that is usually too much to ask as most people don’t have any manners.

 

This was precisly what I was asking that I couldn't get my head around. I don't think you understood from the way I worded it though. WHat I meant was do I either:

 

a) drain the sump, take it off and change the filter, put the sump back on and then flush ----- which meant I would have a new filter in there while flushing out the majority of the old oil and therefore old oil going in a nice new filter.

 

or

 

b) flush the system, drain the sump (which is where I meant I would be losing 2L of new oil), change the filter and then top up again. ----- I know this way I lose fresh oil but also this is the only way I can see not flushing the old oil through a new filter.

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Transmission strainer change and full flush instructions.

 

http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/group.php?discussionid=188&pp=10&page=1&do=discuss

 

For dipsticks who can't cope with information that is presented more than one sentence at a time.

 

Here translated into 37 text grunts.

 

 

Things

 

1. 10 litres of ATF Dexron III

2. New strainer

3. Tube of RTV

4. Brake cleaner

5. 10mm & 14mm socket & ratchet

6. Hammer

7. Broad wood chisel or proper sump removal tool

8. Torque wrench

9. Drip tray

10. Jack

11. Pliers or screwdriver? to undo fluid line

12. Roll of mechanics wipe

13. Bucket

14. Level hard-standing

15. 4 x axle stands

 

 

How to

 

1. Jack up car

2. Use 14mm spanner to undo drain plug

3. Drain old ATF into drip tray

4. Use 10mm socket & ratchet to undo pan bolts

5. Use hammer and wood chisel or proper tool to break seal on pan

6. Clean magnets with mechanics wipe

7. Good idea to remove solenoids and clean them with brake cleaner whilst you are in there

8. Good idea to check torque on valve-body bolts whilst you're in there, 7ftlb

9. Use 10mm socket for changing strainer and checking valve-body bolts

10. Use torque wrench to tighten strainer bolts to 7ftlb

11. Use chisel to clean off old RTV

12. Use brake cleaner to degrease sealant faces

13. Apply a 6mm bead of RTV to sump

14. Replace sump bolts torqued to 6.5ftlb

15. Pour 6.5 litres of ATF into dipstick tube

16. Remove ATF "flow" line from cooler and hold over bucket

17. Start engine and run until fresh fluid can be seen

18. Have an assistant pour in another litre whilst the engine is running

19. Turn off engine and reconnect pipe

20. Top up transmission to the correct mark on dipstick

21. Text your mum and ask her to wipe your arse

22. Sign up for an evening class in adult literacy

 

This is brilliant but it gives me another quick question.....

 

Referring to point 21, do you usually Sh!t yourself when completing this job?? If so, maybe you should get yourself a longer handle for you torque wrench ;)

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Thats bloody expensive when you have to consider drainage time and time for the rtv to set.

 

£40 to save you crawling around on the floor, sounds cheap to me

 

While the rtv is setting you push the car off the ramp, leave it till the end of the day or overnight if you wish, my

garage doesn't charge me while the cars not on the ramp ;)

 

- - - Updated - - -

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