herbiemercman Posted March 13, 2018 Share Posted March 13, 2018 (edited) Hi Guys, Had my car 22 years from new and now the front offside disc brake cooling /shield has corroded and is flopping about, i am a bit amazed how this has happened as i am a big waxoyl fan, however, two questions, 1. How neccessary are these plates if you are not racing on a hot summers day? also does anyone know if and where these plates are available? I realise that the plates also prevent road debris getting on the discs and the disc pads and i like keeping my car to 100% spec. I will appreciate any replies. Herbie. SUPRA BRAKES REPLACED. AUG 2012. 003.jpg (993.4 KB) SUPRA BRAKES REPLACED. AUG 2012. 002.jpg (831.3 KB) Edited March 13, 2018 by herbiemercman added extra text. (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
herbiemercman Posted March 14, 2018 Author Share Posted March 14, 2018 Hi Guys, I have now found out that the correct name for what i refered to as brake disc cooling/shield, is plate dust & splash shield. When i contacted my local garage who has lots of experience with all makes of cars said he has seen lots of cases where this thin mild steel shield has corroded and fallen away from their fixings and many owners just leave them off, it is only an MOT failure if just one side is missing, not sure i can see the logic in this as i do not think there are any cars which do not have these sheilds fitted? he also went on to say that the amount of water that gets onto the front discs at 70 mph on a very wet motorway is as bad as any splashes you would get and the dust is the same as the outer disc surface which has no shield, IMO this makes sense. The other thing is these things are quite expensive considering they are a thin mild steel pressing. What do you think? Herbie. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dnk Posted March 14, 2018 Share Posted March 14, 2018 I have a car without them fitted on both front and rear brakes and not noticed any negative issues in wet or dry braking or any other problems to be honest, that's been for over 3 years and approx 6000 miles Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evinX Posted March 14, 2018 Share Posted March 14, 2018 head down the scrappers, find some matching in good nic, trim them off and rivet them some good metal left on yours, then spray em up to look ok ish. Personally id buy new, trim and slip the olds off and news on. To do it properly you mess with the hubs/bearings. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ark Posted March 14, 2018 Share Posted March 14, 2018 head down the scrappers, find some matching in good nic, trim them off and rivet them some good metal left on yours, then spray em up to look ok ish. Personally id buy new, trim and slip the olds off and news on. To do it properly you mess with the hubs/bearings. Pretty sure they just bolt on to the back of the hub, so if you can get the bolts out without stripping them then they'll slip straight off. They won't fit with big brake kits, so mine are long gone for that reason, never had it mentioned at MOT. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evinX Posted March 14, 2018 Share Posted March 14, 2018 Pretty sure they just bolt on to the back of the hub, so if you can get the bolts out without stripping them then they'll slip straight off. They won't fit with big brake kits, so mine are long gone for that reason, never had it mentioned at MOT. The front are a doddle to do, 4 bolts exposed when the disc is off. But the rears are such a big job. If the front are rotting the rears would be near same or worst as the back of supras tend to get more corrosion than the front underside Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dnk Posted March 14, 2018 Share Posted March 14, 2018 Think you need to take the hub apart to fit them properly Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rider Posted March 15, 2018 Share Posted March 15, 2018 To fit the dust shield its a job best done when its time for the wheel bearings to be replaced to do it all at the same time. I had new shields fitted to my fronts last year, when I had the bearings done. They aren't expensive, direct from Mr T so I'd recommend buy a set and then when you get the bearings changed out get those fitted at the same time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
herbiemercman Posted March 16, 2018 Author Share Posted March 16, 2018 My local garage owner who is a long time served Mercedes man and MOT tests my Supra,and looks after my Merc, looked in his MOT manual yesterday and sent me the wording, it states " Providing no other brake assembly items are attached to the disc dust and splash plate, such as cables,calipers,wheel cylinders etc, then this will NOT create an MOT failure". However due to the high cost of replacement of these plates i am going to coat them with "Waxoyl Bitumastic" paint, this stuff will not wash away in high water pressure locations like there is under the wheel arches, the standard "Waxoyl", which i have always used, will eventually wash off, and i think this is why my shield corroded. Finally i just looked at the fixing arrangement on the front of my 1995 Supra, and once you remove the brake disc, you just remove the bolts to detach the plate, the wheel bearings are not involved, all be it this may not be the case on the rear plates removal process? Thanks again for all your comments. Herbie. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evinX Posted March 16, 2018 Share Posted March 16, 2018 My local garage owner who is a long time served Mercedes man and MOT tests my Supra,and looks after my Merc, looked in his MOT manual yesterday and sent me the wording, it states " Providing no other brake assembly items are attached to the disc dust and splash plate, such as cables,calipers,wheel cylinders etc, then this will NOT create an MOT failure". However due to the high cost of replacement of these plates i am going to coat them with "Waxoyl Bitumastic" paint, this stuff will not wash away in high water pressure locations like there is under the wheel arches, the standard "Waxoyl", which i have always used, will eventually wash off, and i think this is why my shield corroded. Finally i just looked at the fixing arrangement on the front of my 1995 Supra, and once you remove the brake disc, you just remove the bolts to detach the plate, the wheel bearings are not involved, all be it this may not be the case on the rear plates removal process? Thanks again for all your comments. Herbie. Its not so straight foward on the front mate. You need some aviation tin snips to cut a peice out to be able to slide the old ones off and new ones on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
herbiemercman Posted March 17, 2018 Author Share Posted March 17, 2018 Hi evinX, Thanks for info, you said in your previouse post that "just 4 bolts out" and the shield comes off? why have you discovered that some cutting of the shield is required, i ask this as i have not started the job yet. If i buy new shields, surely i do not need to cut them? Herbie. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dnk Posted March 17, 2018 Share Posted March 17, 2018 I would imagine they don't fit over the hub, cutting new ones to fit is a bodge Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blythmrk Posted March 17, 2018 Share Posted March 17, 2018 The hub has to be removed (off the car) to fit as oem fitment. So if you do not want to remove the hub the only way is to trim it so it slides in to place but still uses all 4 bolts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evinX Posted March 17, 2018 Share Posted March 17, 2018 Hi evinX, Thanks for info, you said in your previouse post that "just 4 bolts out" and the shield comes off? why have you discovered that some cutting of the shield is required, i ask this as i have not started the job yet. If i buy new shields, surely i do not need to cut them? Herbie. The bolts are exposed when the disc is off. But wont come off the hub unless a section if cutt off the old and new shield. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
herbiemercman Posted March 18, 2018 Author Share Posted March 18, 2018 (edited) Cheers guys i can see what you mean now, it is still a mystery why all the other shields are sound and yet the FNS corroded, mainly at the base, could be that the base is very inaccessible where i tried to apply "Waxoyl", the curved top section which has the air flow louvers is not bad so i may be able to build up the bottom section with sheet ali and pop rivet on. The alternative is to remove both front shields, now that i know it will not be an MOT failure, the rear plates are now the most important as they would have to be in place for the functionality and would be an MOT failure, i need to ensure i give these a good corrosion protection treatment, great pitty that the OEM's did not bother about the cost and comlexity of replacing these simple mild steel pressings, just 50 pence to have had the galvanizing done prior to assembly! Herbie. Edited March 19, 2018 by herbiemercman (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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