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The mkiv Supra Owners Club

Rear tyre wear


Snowman

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Guest Martin F

Get the alignment checked.

 

With the stock alignment tyres should wear on the insides quicker than the outsides, but not one side of the car more than the other.

 

Not unless you're a bit indecisive when going round roundabouts. :p

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Got a wheel alignment check a while ago, also have a new LSD - but I do take roundabouts in a rather 'enthusiastic' manner:)

 

I've got new SO3s on the rear now - will check at the weekend if they are still wearing differently.

 

On the wheel alignment front - the tyres always wore very evenly - just the left rear more than the right.

 

As a matter of interest - I really rate the Bridgestone SO3s - excellent grip and they don't wear out in 10 minutes like the SO2s do!

 

Jeremy

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Originally posted by Snowman

Don't tend to over do it too much on the round about's

 

It's the RZ, would the LSD explain why the left rear always spins?

 

Is your car auto or manual Snow? The manuals had an LSD as standard, the auto's didn't.

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Thorin

 

It's an Auto. I noticed it most obviously once when I parked on some wet grass. The rear passenger side wheel was just spinning and the drivers side wasn't moving?

 

Does this mean that the rear passenger side wheel does more of the driving that the other rear wheel?

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Check your vehicle plate you need a B at the end of the Transmission/ Axel code LSD, A is standard diff, it is not model specific as it was a factor option in Japan, so some High spec cars may have a standard diff.

 

My car came with a stan dard diff and I had the same problem, lots of spin on one wheel, and lots of unplanned sideways action too. Swapped for an LSD now I have much more even traction.

 

I agree about the S03's grippy as hell, with RLTC empty roundabouts have never been so much fun.

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seems to be quite a few cars out there without the LSD. Its an easy upgrade, bolt off bolt on, you just have to find one. UK spec diffs are also slightly different as are the facelift ones.

 

My car didnt have one and I learnt to cope with the single wheel spinning, upgraded to an LSD and it completely changed the car, made RLTC far more important.

 

Talk to Leon and see if he has any spare LSDs sitting around. Its certainly worth doing if you run serious boost.

 

JB

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few hundred really, do a search and there was a discussion a while back about costs. Nathan was looking to sell the LSD they had.

 

The LSD will give you much better acceleration out of corners and probably better straight line acceleration. But as it keeps power going to both wheels if possible then it will make the car much more prone to powerslides and tail flicks. My first run with an LSD at Pod I was used to just keeping my foot on the floor and letting the wheel find grip again, with an LSD the car started to powerslide and kept going, I jumped off the power and fishtailed at 80mph. Facing that concerete wall at that speed is scary.

 

RLTC will stop if from doing that, some people prefer not to use RLTC but I prefer to have it there helping as I know what its like staring a concrete wall in the face and wondering just how much of the car will be left when its finished :)

 

JB

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Good find Martin and Terminator thanks for the input.

 

I'm off to get new tyres all round tomorrow so might have to ease up on the spending for this month, but now I know if I want to go any higher on my current BHP this is the next sensible mod to get, along with the RLTC!

 

Thanks guys.

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would the LSD explain why the left rear always spins?
Exactly the opposite. A Limited Slip Differential does exactly what it says on the tin; it limits slip between the driven wheels, so you can only really spin both together. If you have an LSD, wet weather traction will be noticably better as will controlled slides or drifts, as they are fashionably known. If you've got a manual with LSD then spin-turns and doughnuts are quite easy.
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Martin, that diff on ebay looks interesting, but I'm puzzled by the "my mate the mechanic" bit because you have to strip one to see whether it's in good nick. I didn't realise people were talking about the whole assembly, case and all. I though everybody was a bit casual about how easy it was to swap a diff.

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It is easy to swap a diff, it is helpful to have someone else around to help with the refit as they are very heavy. The stock diff is a very tough item, and not a common item discussed on here for faults or wear. Many cars used hard on road, track and drag strip are still running the original diff with out any problems. There is at least one UK car with over 300K miles and AFAIK it is still using the stock diff.

 

Using second hand parts is always a risk. I would suggest that as long as you know a bit about the history of the donor car, and can see that the dif has not sustained damage in a rear or side /rear impact and fluid is clean and full, I would think the risk is worth taking for the difference in price between new and second hand.

 

Mine came from a smashed car with severe front end damage but rear wheels and suspension were intact and the drive shaft and diff showed not external signs of damage. So I took the risk, if anything the LSD felt very slightly smoother than my original with 20000 miles on it.

 

If anyone is pulling a LSD apart and is prepared to take detailed photos of the internals and inside the casing, I for one, would be grateful as I would like to up rate me standards spare to LSD with different ratios, if it is possible. From the out side they are identical, but I need to know if the interior is machined differently to the standard diff casing.

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Guest Martin F
Originally posted by John Packham

Martin, that diff on ebay looks interesting, but I'm puzzled by the "my mate the mechanic" bit because you have to strip one to see whether it's in good nick. I didn't realise people were talking about the whole assembly, case and all. I though everybody was a bit casual about how easy it was to swap a diff.

 

I know nothing about this diff, i just spotted it on EBay.

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CAN you spin both wheels if you have a 'normal'

diff' ? ?

 

OR, is it only POSSIBLE to ever spin the 'one' ?

 

AND, given a 'HOMOGENOUS' surface (:p ) would the same one

spin first (or, 'only') each time ?

 

Is that why the left-rear is wearing first (or not likely) ?

[that's what we're actually askin'... I think]

 

PHIL, where's the vehicle plate ? the one on the edge under the

bonnet with the Chassis No. etc ?

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