SupraLEDrears Posted February 27, 2018 Share Posted February 27, 2018 Defo BHG Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted February 27, 2018 Share Posted February 27, 2018 Certainly sounds likely, get a sniffer test done. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glover Posted February 27, 2018 Author Share Posted February 27, 2018 Certainly sounds likely, get a sniffer test done. Any of the eBay ones any good? Or does anyone have a link to one they’ve used. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SupraLEDrears Posted February 27, 2018 Share Posted February 27, 2018 Last time the aa did mine for free when I overheated. Dont know if you're a member Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted February 27, 2018 Share Posted February 27, 2018 Any of the eBay ones any good? Or does anyone have a link to one they’ve used. /QUOTE] No idea, post a link. I use the 4 gas analyzer (Bosch) to sniff for HC's and sometimes also a dye test, the red dye turns green if vapour above the rad coolant contains HC's when pulled through it with a rubber bulb thing. The coloured liquid is very expensive, a pal made his own (he's an industrial chemist) and gave me some, but I tend to favour the gas analyser still. Just get a garage to do it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glover Posted February 27, 2018 Author Share Posted February 27, 2018 No idea, post a link. I use the 4 gas analyzer (Bosch) to sniff for HC's and sometimes also a dye test, the red dye turns green if vapour above the rad coolant contains HC's when pulled through it with a rubber bulb thing. The coloured liquid is very expensive, a pal made his own (he's an industrial chemist) and gave me some, but I tend to favour the gas analyser still. Just get a garage to do it. It’s one of the chemical dye ones https://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/BT-3-BLOCK-COMBUSTION-LEAK-TESTER-KIT-CO2-BLOCK-HEAD-GASKET-TEST-FLUID-35d/282514603676?epid=527979883&hash=item41c72ebe9c:g:MuUAAOSwLEtYi8Gi Didn’t want to drive it again now until I’m sure so might try get a mobile mechanic out. I’m with The AA but not with home start so I’d have to drive it around the corner or upgrade and call tomorrow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted February 27, 2018 Share Posted February 27, 2018 Sounds too good to be true, less than 2cc of fluid used??? Still, if it works... mine uses about 50cc per test. But you can draw clean air through it a few times and it goes back to the original colour and can be used a couple of more times. For the price you might as well give it a go. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted February 27, 2018 Share Posted February 27, 2018 You should really drain the coolant below head gasket level if you aren't using it as coolant may be getting down a bore or bores, and it will knacker the bores and rings. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glover Posted February 27, 2018 Author Share Posted February 27, 2018 You should really drain the coolant below head gasket level if you aren't using it as coolant may be getting down a bore or bores, and it will knacker the bores and rings. Yeah I’ll give it a go then ! Thanks for the tips, and all the replies. I do love this forum, been on some other car ones before and the people on it can be terrible ! I’ll keep this up to date with progress, it will end up turning into a project thread at this rate !! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted February 27, 2018 Share Posted February 27, 2018 If you have to pull the head off I'd suggest doing the stem seals and fitting a new water pump and backing plate, cam belt, cam seals and suchlike whilst it's accessible. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evinX Posted February 27, 2018 Share Posted February 27, 2018 Water pump on its way out? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dnk Posted February 27, 2018 Share Posted February 27, 2018 If you have to pull the head get it checked to make sure its within the allowed tolerance, if it isn't its pretty much scrap, 0.1 mm max allowed or 0.0039" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted February 27, 2018 Share Posted February 27, 2018 The really critical thing is if it has warped is, are the cam journals out of line (banana shaped)? If so how much out of kilter? I've taken 20 thou + off one and it was fine, but the cam journals were, miraculously pretty straight. Not ideal, but it's still running, and with a bit more oomph due to the higher squashy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glover Posted February 27, 2018 Author Share Posted February 27, 2018 If you have to pull the head off I'd suggest doing the stem seals and fitting a new water pump and backing plate, cam belt, cam seals and suchlike whilst it's accessible. Cheers, yeah depending on what the outcome is, I’m thinking of taking it off the road and getting stuck into being a project with the age of it, keeping it on the road is going to see me chasing one problem with another ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dnk Posted February 27, 2018 Share Posted February 27, 2018 Surprised if the face is warped how the cam journals won't be out by the same amount but yes agreed the cam journals being inline is the critical part Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glover Posted April 11, 2018 Author Share Posted April 11, 2018 Little update! Cars been with my Dad for a few weeks now, (he had he car for 10 years before passing it on) Looking like good news, We think changing the rad cap actually fixed the original problem, and because I had over filled the rad when bleeding the system, and then after changing the cap it did legit overflow because it was over full, I thought it wasn’t fixed. It’s been ran a few times now and it’s not overflowing. The heater in the car is getting hot and cold instantly now! Car is going to be off the road for a while because it’s got a good bit of maintenance to be done but happy it isn’t anything more serious. Thought it would be good to post what’s happened Incase anyone else has similar problems ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evinX Posted April 11, 2018 Share Posted April 11, 2018 Good news Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dnk Posted April 12, 2018 Share Posted April 12, 2018 Good news if the cap fixed the problem You can't overfill the system, its designed to push out coolant once it reaches a certain pressure/temp then as the system cools it draws the coolant back in to the rad, that's why it has the expansion tank which should be kept approx half full Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted April 12, 2018 Share Posted April 12, 2018 Little update! Cars been with my Dad for a few weeks now, (he had he car for 10 years before passing it on) Looking like good news, We think changing the rad cap actually fixed the original problem, and because I had over filled the rad when bleeding the system, and then after changing the cap it did legit overflow because it was over full, I thought it wasn’t fixed. It’s been ran a few times now and it’s not overflowing. The heater in the car is getting hot and cold instantly now! Car is going to be off the road for a while because it’s got a good bit of maintenance to be done but happy it isn’t anything more serious. Thought it would be good to post what’s happened Incase anyone else has similar problems ! Just for future clarity i think you mean you over filled the expansion tank, not the radiator, which *should* remain full to the brim? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glover Posted April 12, 2018 Author Share Posted April 12, 2018 Just for future clarity i think you mean you over filled the expansion tank, not the radiator, which *should* remain full to the brim? Yeah that’s what I thought and that’s what I did, but I’ll see how it runs from now but he’s happy enough that it’s been sorted and it’s running back to how it was before ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glover Posted April 18, 2018 Author Share Posted April 18, 2018 Good news if the cap fixed the problem You can't overfill the system, its designed to push out coolant once it reaches a certain pressure/temp then as the system cools it draws the coolant back in to the rad, that's why it has the expansion tank which should be kept approx half full Found out that my Dad fitted a larger aftermarket radiator and he found that if he filled that to the brim it would do what was happening to me! He filled it to where he knows it needs to be and it’s spot on! Perfect temp in the car, no overflowing so All spot on ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glover Posted March 30, 2019 Author Share Posted March 30, 2019 Issues again with the Supra.. finally got it MOT’d and driving it tonight the radiator expansion cap popped off. Heard the pop and steam from the bonnet. Temperature gauge never moved, car felt fine, popped the cap back on and drove home (not far from where I was) temp was all fine, never moved from halfway on the speedo. Got home and could see where the coolant had spilled out from the expansion cap and could smell it underneath the hood! I’m now wondering if I never solved the issue in the first place, even though it’s been fine when I’ve had it running when it was on the drive to test it. Any gurus out there, can you add anything basic that I might have missed.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scooter Posted March 30, 2019 Share Posted March 30, 2019 http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?306524-Very-High-Pressure-in-Coolant-System-Help-Needed/page3&highlight=Popping+hoses From reading this I'd suspect the aftermarket rad/rad cap setup. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted March 30, 2019 Share Posted March 30, 2019 Either the recirculation hose from rad cap area to expansion bottle was blocked or the vent hose on the expansion bottle was blocked and the pressure suddenly cleared the blockage, blowing the cap off. REMOVE both hoses and wash them through thoroughly. I suspect the hose from rad to bottle was the culprit, I have seen this before. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glover Posted March 30, 2019 Author Share Posted March 30, 2019 Either the recirculation hose from rad cap area to expansion bottle was blocked or the vent hose on the expansion bottle was blocked and the pressure suddenly cleared the blockage, blowing the cap off. REMOVE both hoses and wash them through thoroughly. I suspect the hose from rad to bottle was the culprit, I have seen this before. Perfect, cheers Chris, I’ll have a look at that this weekend. It has been stood for a little bit while I moved house and got it ready for the MOT, this would make sense if it’s become gunked up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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