Mk4Gaz Posted February 10, 2018 Share Posted February 10, 2018 Hi guys, wondering if anyone can help at all? I've recently decided to go back to auto, after doing a manual conversion last year - I just prefer the auto! Got everything hooked back up today, and got just over 7l of trans fluid it, the torque converter was also about half full when I fitted it. I've been through the gears various times during the filling procedure, but have a serious issue. The box will engage reverse and the car will move backwards, but I have no forward drive at all. With the car off the ground, the wheels will turn in forward gears, but nothing at all with the car on the ground. I've been assured that the auto box I've got, came from a working and driving car, so I'm wondering if I've missed something simple, or if there's anything I can test, before pulling it all back out and buying another box Any help would be greatly appreciated, as the car is stuck on a friend's ramp, and he needs it back! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big Mark Posted February 10, 2018 Share Posted February 10, 2018 Did you mess with any of the wiring harness on the car for the auto box when you converted to manual? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mk4Gaz Posted February 10, 2018 Author Share Posted February 10, 2018 Only the neutral start switch, which is two wires, which have been reinstated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big Mark Posted February 10, 2018 Share Posted February 10, 2018 What about the ECU? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mk4Gaz Posted February 10, 2018 Author Share Posted February 10, 2018 Refitted both of my original auto ecus, that I removed last year. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big Mark Posted February 10, 2018 Share Posted February 10, 2018 That's me out of ideas I'm afraid. Plus I've got my own gearbox issues at present. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mellonman Posted February 10, 2018 Share Posted February 10, 2018 what about if you select 1st does it move then? might benefit a call to David P Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mk4Gaz Posted February 10, 2018 Author Share Posted February 10, 2018 what about if you select 1st does it move then? might benefit a call to David P No mate. When shifting to reverse, I get the shift 'bump', and the car moves freely. When shifting into any forward moving gear, there's no shift bump, and no movement at all. It just revs like it's in neutral I should also add that I've developed the o/d blinking, which didn't happen before, and also my 'manu' button doesn't appear to be doing anything. I spoke with David earlier on the phone, and he suggested it could be a seized accumulator, or something equally difficult to sort out. He shimmed the box for me at the beginning of December, and I've been looking forward to getting all back in and running! what about if you select 1st does it move then? might benefit a call to David P Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David P Posted February 10, 2018 Share Posted February 10, 2018 (edited) The box had been standing around for "a while" and I suspect the problem could be a sticky C-0 accumulator? When shimming a box there's no need to touch the C-0 accumulator, but it looks as though from now on I will also need to open and clean that one as part of the job. Edited February 11, 2018 by David P (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rider Posted February 11, 2018 Share Posted February 11, 2018 You can also test if it's mechanical fault in transmission or electrical fault in transmission control circuit with this test (copy&paste from service manual): DIAGNOSTIC TROUBLE CODE CHECK 1. Turn the ignition switch ON, but do not start the engine. 2. Push in the O/D main switch to ON. HINT: Warning and diagnostic trouble codes can be read only when the O/D main switch is ON. If it is OFF, the O/D OFF indicator light up will light continuously and will not blink. 3.Connect terminals TE1 and E1 of the DLC 1 or DLC2. 4. Read the diagnostic trouble code indicated by the number of times the O/D OFF indicator light blinks. If the system is operating normally, the light will blink 2 times per second. MANUAL SHIFTING TEST HINT: With this test, it can be determined whether the trouble is within the electrical circuit or is a mechanical problem in the transmission. 1. DISCONNECT SOLENOID WIRE FROM TRANSMISSION 2. INSPECT MANUAL DRIVING OPERATION Check that the shift and gear positions correspond with the table below. Shifter position Gear position D O/D 2 3rd L 1st R Reverse P Pawl lock HINT: If the L, 2 and D position gear positions are difficult to distinguish, do the following road test. • While driving, shift through the L, 2 and D positions. Check that the gear change corresponds to the shift position. If any abnormality is found in the above test, the problem is in the transmission itself. 3. CONNECT SOLENOID WIRE 4. CANCEL OUT DIAGNOSTIC TROUBLE CODE Diagnostics courtesy of Tuoppi Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David P Posted February 11, 2018 Share Posted February 11, 2018 (edited) P.S. You haven't confirmed that the fluid level is up to the mark? Please check the dipstick before you tear your box out. http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/group.php?discussionid=188&do=discuss Edited February 11, 2018 by David P (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mk4Gaz Posted February 11, 2018 Author Share Posted February 11, 2018 The fluid is fully topped up mate Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Posted February 23, 2018 Share Posted February 23, 2018 (edited) Open up your ECU mine was playing up ,it was a blown diode ,works great now Edited February 23, 2018 by Dave (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mk4Gaz Posted February 25, 2018 Author Share Posted February 25, 2018 Open up your ECU mine was playing up ,it was a blown diode ,works great now Thanks dave, I'll have a look. I've now managed to obtain another box, and it's currently at David P's, for the shim treatment. I won't have the opportunity to get to my car before next weekend, but I'll be going to get this other box either way, and will inspect the ecu if this 'new' box doesn't fix things Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David P Posted March 4, 2018 Share Posted March 4, 2018 I don't yet have a shed to tinker about in, so I had Gaz's box apart inside in the warm and dry on my kitchen floor and for the record; I found that the problem was a blocked oil-way in the valve-body exiting from the C-0 accumulator. Whilst we were at it we also stripped, cleaned and shimmed him up another box so that he now has two to play with and another box was also cleaned and shimmed up for Benjy. Ironically, the box we shimmed up for Benjy was found to have a stuck C-0 accumulator, which was the problem that I suspected to find in Gaz's box. My gardening boots made good transmission wedges and Gaz is far better than me at squiding on the RTV. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mk4Gaz Posted March 4, 2018 Author Share Posted March 4, 2018 Thanks again for your help today David, I'll report back next weekend when the box is back again. I'm hopeful it was something mechanical at fault, and the blocked gallery from the accumulator was the problem all along. If it still doesn't work when refitted, I don't think I'll need to tell you, you'll probably see the explosion and smoke from your house Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David P Posted March 7, 2018 Share Posted March 7, 2018 (edited) Members please note: I'm not sure which part of tinkering with three transmissions in a day has upset it, but my spine has gone downhill on each of the three days since? Today I can't even stand up and can only just get around on my hands and knees, as long as I go slower than a Sloth. I think I have collapsed a seventh disc? When I have to move about, the pain is so extreme it is blipping me out of consciousness. After this bad back session has passed.......... For future box tinkering, I have banned myself from helping with ANY & ALL of the picking them up and/or moving them about jobs. Thank you Edited March 7, 2018 by David P (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evinX Posted March 15, 2018 Share Posted March 15, 2018 On the phone to David for me today - DAVID HELP MY GEARBOX IS FUDGED! after a drain and partial flush ive lost reverse. Seems my accumulator has gotten stuck after the overnight drain...not the end of the world, i can manage with it without reverse just have to be tactical until it gets sorted which has gotten me thinking...if anyone has a NA gearbox they can drop off pm me would be good if the worst was to happen Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David P Posted March 15, 2018 Share Posted March 15, 2018 (edited) I think that Kevin has upset it by trying too hard! N/A C-0 accumulator drains between valve-body and edge of casting. (See edge of hole with spring in it) I suspect that a combination of using too much RTV when re-sealing the sump and then letting it harden overnight before refilling with ATF and running it, has clogged up this oil-way? Edited March 15, 2018 by David P (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David P Posted March 15, 2018 Share Posted March 15, 2018 (edited) ATF has to go somewhere and Kevin has somehow managed to bump out one of the internal pipes? The best way to prevent this happening again, is to fit a tag and to cable tie them into place. (I'm not sure if this is doable without removing the valve-body, because I have never tried, if it is doable it will be a fiddly job?) Edited March 15, 2018 by David P (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mk4Gaz Posted March 15, 2018 Author Share Posted March 15, 2018 Well I'm pleased to confirm that with the replacement box myself and David shimmed up a couple of weekends ago, my car now appears to be working fine I still don't know if we managed to fix the original box, I guess the only way to know for sure, would be to fit it. But, for now, all is good Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David P Posted March 15, 2018 Share Posted March 15, 2018 Well I'm pleased to confirm that with the replacement box myself and David shimmed up a couple of weekends ago, my car now appears to be working fine I still don't know if we managed to fix the original box, I guess the only way to know for sure, would be to fit it. But, for now, all is good /QUOTE] That's good news. Have you sorted out the Electrickery Gremlins too? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evinX Posted March 15, 2018 Share Posted March 15, 2018 I was going to fit a A650E sump, but seeming as the A650E is deeper than the A340E, those reverse pipes actually sit on the A340E sump, when fitting the A650E sump theres a gap now that allows them to pop off. I loved the idea of a nice OE mod to the box, but its too much of a ball ache and im reverting back to the original A340E, ill keep the A650E sump tucked away for some other time. But im too fedup to go any further with it. Want my reverse cheers David Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David P Posted March 15, 2018 Share Posted March 15, 2018 (edited) There are many Hybrid transmissions fitted with a T.T. (Deeper at that end than N/A) sump trundling about without problem. The reality is; swapping components between these transmissions is more involved in obscure little ways than it would appear to be. Not being there to oversee the job and whilst trying to keep up at a distance with my pet hate, dipsticks "massager grunts", I had overlooked this possibility, but whilst you presently have the sump off, instead of giving up, you might as well fit a tag and the cable ties as I have shown, it is only one bolt more to tinker with. The bolt you need to attach the tag to is partially behind the valve-body and there might be room for it to come out or might not? If there's not quite enough room, slacken the valve body bolts by a couple of mm then it'll come out. Fit a tag, re-nip that bolt and valve-body bolts to 7ftlb. Alternatively, wait until the weather is sensible for a crumbling old spaz with 7 herniated discs to dick about under a car and then your local friendly cripple will come and sort out what is apparently beyond able bodied young men. Edited March 15, 2018 by David P (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mk4Gaz Posted March 15, 2018 Author Share Posted March 15, 2018 That's good news. Have you sorted out the Electrickery Gremlins too? I haven't had the chance yet, no. That's this weekends job Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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