Glover Posted February 5, 2018 Share Posted February 5, 2018 Had an issue with the alternator going last week which has been fixed with a new alternator. Also changed the distributor seal (which was like plastic) to stop the oil leak which I'm sure didn't help the old alternator. I've now got two issues since. 1. Strange high pitched noise under the engine bay, I'll upload a video. 2. Lost coolant when changing the altenator and the temperature in the car doesn't seem to get half as hot now. Think it's an air block but I've tried running the car with the radiator cap off and squeezing the air out but it rises too quickly so I'm not sure. Anyone got any tips or what else the heating loss could be? Thanks in advance Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mellonman Posted February 5, 2018 Share Posted February 5, 2018 the high pitch noise sounds like the alternator if I'm honest. as for the air lock try and do it on a hill or jack up so the rad cap is highest Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glover Posted February 5, 2018 Author Share Posted February 5, 2018 To be honest it sounds worse on the video so I'm maybe being over the top about it and worrying! Yeah ill have a go at that then. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mk4Gaz Posted February 5, 2018 Share Posted February 5, 2018 Definitely sounds like a dry bearing. Whip the serpentine belt off, and spin the pulleys to see if you can hear if one sounds noisy I've been suffering with Luke warm heaters for about 3 years now, no matter what I do, I cannot seem to get whatever air is in the system out Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glover Posted February 5, 2018 Author Share Posted February 5, 2018 Definitely sounds like a dry bearing. Whip the serpentine belt off, and spin the pulleys to see if you can hear if one sounds noisy I've been suffering with Luke warm heaters for about 3 years now, no matter what I do, I cannot seem to get whatever air is in the system out [emoji23] /QUOTE]I'll look into that as well then, I need to change the belt next month anyways so I'll give it a looking over then! Haha, don't say that it's driving me mad already! Don't know how you've lasted that long [emoji23] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mk4Gaz Posted February 5, 2018 Share Posted February 5, 2018 It was perfect when I replaced the rad with a stock one, bled up a treat. Ever since going to an alloy rad, I've had crap heaters. Dunno if it's coincidence or not, but I've given up trying Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glover Posted February 5, 2018 Author Share Posted February 5, 2018 It was perfect when I replaced the rad with a stock one, bled up a treat. Ever since going to an alloy rad, I've had crap heaters. Dunno if it's coincidence or not, but I've given up trying [emoji23] /QUOTE][emoji23] [emoji23] It needs a service in a few months so if I haven't sorted it before that it is will be driving me up the wall! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scooter Posted February 5, 2018 Share Posted February 5, 2018 It was perfect when I replaced the rad with a stock one, bled up a treat. Ever since going to an alloy rad, I've had crap heaters. Dunno if it's coincidence or not, but I've given up trying /QUOTE] When hot check the in/out pipes to the heater matrix, are they the same ish temperature? I have a bleed screw in one of these pipes which you can unscrew to let air out so you can ensure there is no air lock. This is the exact piece i have https://www.carbuildersolutions.com/uk/black-nylon-19mm-joiner-with-bleed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jjs_82 Posted February 6, 2018 Share Posted February 6, 2018 Do you still have ac pump in the car Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mk4Gaz Posted February 6, 2018 Share Posted February 6, 2018 When hot check the in/out pipes to the heater matrix, are they the same ish temperature? I have a bleed screw in one of these pipes which you can unscrew to let air out so you can ensure there is no air lock. This is the exact piece i have https://www.carbuildersolutions.com/uk/black-nylon-19mm-joiner-with-bleed Yes mate, the matrix is hot both sides, as that was my first thought. I also added an inline bleed point to the upper hose over the rear of the engine, which made no difference. My temp gauge is rock stable and doesn't fluctuate at all, but I cannot seem to get the heaters how they used to be. I've also checked the arm on the side of the heater box, and everything is still attached properly. I've even considered buying a vacuum bleeder, to see if that will solve it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scooter Posted February 6, 2018 Share Posted February 6, 2018 If the pipes are both hot and the arm inside is attached fine that's very odd you aren't getting a decent heater? Where you put the bleed point is the highest point in the system as far as I can see (maybe try one time with the nose right down? but that's grasping at straws) perhaps a thermostat issue, that's coincidental with the rad change? (how hot are both the matrix pipes - proper scalding can't hold at all hot?) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glover Posted February 6, 2018 Author Share Posted February 6, 2018 Update, after trying to bleed it yesterday, it's getting hotter now like it did before but if I increase the speed on the blower it goes back cold again! Seems to be warmer after I've put my foot down also! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scooter Posted February 6, 2018 Share Posted February 6, 2018 What did you do to try and bleed it? Have you tried putting the rad cap half on (it sort of has two on settings, on and er fully on!), driving round locally, leaving it to idle somewhere with the nose up high (find a steep slope). If it was fine before it smacks of an air lock, presume the coolant expansion tank has plenty of coolant in too and the link pipe is clear not kinked/blocked? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
james_cbr Posted February 6, 2018 Share Posted February 6, 2018 forget the top bleeder that you put in fill rad to the top put cap on squeeze bottom hose several times remove cap and re fill rad to the top do this till it stops dropping also check the power steering fluid my friends one made a noise like that and the fluid was a little low Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glover Posted February 6, 2018 Author Share Posted February 6, 2018 Had the cap off fully and tried to get the air lock out that way, tomorrow I'm going to try what you've said about half way and getting it on a slope! Yeah, I'll check the power steering fluid as well actually, didn't think of that, cheers! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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