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The mkiv Supra Owners Club

Mines ECU = black spark plugs


jackso11

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My engine has been rebuilt and fired up great first time. I still havent been for a drive in it as it has no mot however it seems to be running really rich. I have put a mines ECU in the car from Keron but other than that it’s been rebuilt all stock but the car starts fine, I run for a few minutes while I move it around my unit, then the next time I go to start it it’s missing a little so I pull the plugs and they are black and covered in carbon. Does it just need a drive so the ECU can sort itself out?

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Good, i was hoping that would be the case. Getting it MOT'ed on tuesday before doing any bodywork so I can take it out for a good long drive.

 

DO you know what the boost is set to on mines ECU's? and are the boosts set to come in at different values? Its been a while since I drove my supra but it seemed way more pokey at lower revs than I remember while I was driving it around our industrial estate today, first time I have given it more than about 1500rpm in a long time.

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Most mines ecus are setup for bpu, they're much the same as the blitz access ecus.

Typically, you an expect:

 

Fuel cut removed

Boost maps for 1.2bar

Rev limit raised to 8000rpm

More aggressive timing and fuelling map

 

People have been able to find out exactly what their ecu is programmed for, by contacting mines via email, and supplying them the serial number. They definitely make a difference over a stock ecu though

 

 

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I should probably put a bost controller on it then, and a guage so I can see where it is boosting to :) Everything else is set up for bpu but I have never put a boost controller on there so its just been stock boost until this ecu. Deffinately felt different.

 

If you are just running a restrictor ring the a boost controller would be worth while to get the most from the new ECU, I run a Mines ECU and my boost cut is definitely 1.2bar as it has kicked in a couple of times

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I would say there is something amiss if the plugs are showing combustion as that rich, a mines ECU will do as said, but shouldn't even need to be running rich fuel at low load and idle, so I would first take a look at the ECU coolant temp sensor as this affects cold idle and running, although it shouldn't make AFRs that rich, so its also worth checking the fuel pressure.

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My car is all standard, I don't know what size injectors were on the car the ecu came off, wouldn't they be standard too to work with a mines ECU? Or would the ECU just adjust its levels for bigger injectors and therfore that is why it really needs a drive?

 

Can't get the damn thing started now anyway, just keeps flooding. When it started before it ran fin at tick over for about 20 minutes in the car park, but the next time I tried to start it it wouldn't go so pulled the plugs and they were black again. Got the plugs out now drying off so will try again in a few minutes.

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coolant temp sensor doubles the volume of fuel during cold start and initial warm up - the higher the resistance the colder it thinks it is ,so a poor connection simulates a very cold situation , open circuit or short cuircuit gives a fault code -resistance should drop from 20k ohm to 1 k ohm from cold to hot or thereabouts

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I have never known a failed ECU coolant temp sensor to make the the ECU run things that rich, so the plugs are black and shooty, its usually results in hard hot start because of the over rich mix, and although fuel pressure reg being faulty, again I wouldn't expect it to be that far out, my money is on the Mines ECU.

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Pulled the plugs and they weren't black this time, just very very wet. Left them out for an hour and a half and sat them on the top of a radiator so they really dried out. Back in fired up straight away and running really smooth now so I am going to take it out for a drive and see what happens. :)

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Ive just realised I still have my Thor delimiter/speed converter and my his fuel cut defender still wire in as well as the mines ECU. Will this have any negative effect on the car/ECU? I.e. do I need to get it out straight away or can I wait until after I have had the car mot’ed? Then I guess I can take out the his but need to leave in the Thor?

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Now I think about it, could havingbthe mines ECU + HKS fuel cut defender wires in at the same time cause over fueling?

 

No it won’t make any difference, I ran mine without taking the HKS fuel cut defender out at first.

 

Do you have an AFR gauge? The mines runs rich on cold start, richer then the stock ECU. Usually sits around 11.8 IIRC.

 

I did have a problem with the car running really rich and missing when you lifted the revs up to around 2k, I had fitted the Idle air ref and MAP sensor hoses on the wrong way round when putting all my inlet back on. If you have done work on your car I’d look at hoses and checking your coolant temp sensors are plugged in.

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No it won’t make any difference, I ran mine without taking the HKS fuel cut defender out at first.

 

Do you have an AFR gauge? The mines runs rich on cold start, richer then the stock ECU. Usually sits around 11.8 IIRC.

 

I did have a problem with the car running really rich and missing when you lifted the revs up to around 2k, I had fitted the Idle air ref and MAP sensor hoses on the wrong way round when putting all my inlet back on. If you have done work on your car I’d look at hoses and checking your coolant temp sensors are plugged in.

 

Ill double check this. No AFR gauge at the moment but I do have one in a box so may put it on this weekend to see.

 

Would you mind doing me a favour and taking a picture showing the correct way around for the hoses so I can check? :thumbs:

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  • 2 weeks later...

At last, MOT'ed and back on the road. Running problems seem to have sorted themselves out after driving a few miles so now I just need to build a ramp so I can actually get in my driveway without grounding the front bumper!

 

On the AFR, is there a fitting guide on here? I have never had or fitted an AFR gauge but am thinking I should put one on.

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On the AFR, is there a fitting guide on here? I have never had or fitted an AFR gauge but am thinking I should put one on.

 

You will want a wideband which if going for a gauge type should include the sensor which will need mounting in the exhaust after turbos.

 

Something like this AEM http://www.garagewhifbitz.co.uk/toyota/supra/gauges-pods/gauges/aem/aem-widebandgauge.html

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I've just been reading about AFR wideband sensors and EGT temp probes. I have an EGT temp probe in my exhaust with the wire behind my dash coming up to the a-pillar where I have never actually fitted the EGT gauge...its in my garage. Instead of fitting the AFR am I right in thinking can just fit my EGT gauge and that will tell me if i'm running rich/lean?

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I've just been reading about AFR wideband sensors and EGT temp probes. I have an EGT temp probe in my exhaust with the wire behind my dash coming up to the a-pillar where I have never actually fitted the EGT gauge...its in my garage. Instead of fitting the AFR am I right in thinking can just fit my EGT gauge and that will tell me if i'm running rich/lean?

 

EGT will tell you exhaust temp, you may think being rich is colder and hotter as lean but its not as simple as that, there are many other factors, I would personally monitor EGT and AFR together.

 

I guess the oter thing to add to this is I am no engine tuner. If I get a reading that tells me my engine is running to rich what do i do with that information?

 

On a non-programmable ECU not much.

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