sunny Posted January 26, 2018 Share Posted January 26, 2018 So finally getting around to starting a build thread, although most of the work is already done now up till the point of putting engine back in and test fitting some of the stuff so here goes for the rest of the stuff and pics and so on for build so far. Did most of the work with a help of a few friends and its starting to get there now . Spec: - T61 Turbo - Xspower manifold - Stock hg and injectors - Tial MVR 44mm wastegate with 7psi spring - Garage whifbitz oil sandwich plate - 4an oil feed and 10an oil return - Front mount intercooler - 2.5" intercooler piping - Xs-power downpipe - Emanage Ultimate, 3 bar map sensor - Spec stage 3 clutch - Innovate MTX-L AFR wideband and guage - Boost guage, Oil temp and pressure guage - Electric Radiator fans - The day it started, gave it a nice wash and wax - Started by taking the bumper, headlights, battery out - Started draining fluids - coolant, oil etc - took the radiator out and removed the clutch fan - removed the intake pipe and exhaust manifold heatshield - removed exhaust, exhaust heatshield and driveshaft - Removed shifter and bonnet and disconnected all the wiring loom connectors, pulled the loom out the firewall, removed the transmission mounts, fuel filter lines and various other stuff...engine ready to come out now Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sunny Posted January 26, 2018 Author Share Posted January 26, 2018 - Engine mounted to crane - Got the engine out after a miserable two hours as the driver side mount kept getting stuck on the steering rack so had to remove that and had to fiddle around with the engine crane chain to give leverage to one side so it pulls it out easily...but in the end got it out . Lots of oil everywhere as the rocker cover gasket was leaking heavily. - Started taking engine apart - Put the engine stuff aside for today and started prepping the engine bay a little bit and got it out to the bodyshop for painting and also took a picture with a ferrari in the lockup, because why not loll Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sunny Posted January 26, 2018 Author Share Posted January 26, 2018 - Back to working on the engine while the car is away to the bodyshop. Took the rest of the stuff of the engine to get it degreased and cleaned - Changed the rocker cover gaskets and at this point i already took the sump out, drilled and tap the hole for the oil drain and put it all back together but forgot to take pictures - So anyway, painted the block satin black and put the 4 runner dizzy cap on. - Got the vband flange welded on the xspower manifold to fit the Tial wastegate and also got the manifold braced to be safe - Engine bay got painted and got the car back now - Clutch arrived from Garage Whifbitz and got it on ready to put engine back in Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sunny Posted January 26, 2018 Author Share Posted January 26, 2018 (edited) - Got the engine in after what seems like a century as the passenger engine mount just refused to go in the right spot but thankfully got the engine in without a scratch on the fresh paint - Test fitting some of the stuff and found the oil drain flange i had has a gap in between the sump and the flange itself so had to buy a different one. Dont have pictures but most of the wire and connectors are now connected, driveshaft is back on, also deleted ac comp and lines, power steering lines are back on, pretty much just the turbo stuff left to do now and the ecu wiring. The xspower downpipe actually clear the rack and bulkhead pretty well also as i read that people have clearance issues. The turbo however is not clearing the dizzy that well so will need to look at that at some point. Now just waiting on some other parts arriving before starting up work again. - what the engine bay looks like right now Planning to do intercooler piping this weekend so probably will post more updates/pics then Edited January 26, 2018 by sunny (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Annabella Posted January 26, 2018 Share Posted January 26, 2018 Cool keep at it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sunny Posted January 27, 2018 Author Share Posted January 27, 2018 So need some advice. If you look at the attached pics, my oil drain flange on the turbo is very close to the turbo hotside flange connected to the manifold but it clears, however, when i put the an fitting onto the flange, the fitting touches the t4 flange of the hotside of turbo. Has anyone else had this problem? If so, how did you manage to ger around it? I saw garage whifbitz have a drain flange that is extended but before i buy that, wanted to know if there is an alternative to fix it without the extended flange. Help would be greatly appreciated ) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sunny Posted January 29, 2018 Author Share Posted January 29, 2018 So got quite a lot done during the weekend. Got the manifold heatwrapped and turbo, manifold and oil drain final mounted to the engine, changed the wastegate spring to 7psi. and started to make mounts for the intercooler to go on. Finally looking like a car again Had one question tho if anyone can help. The watercooled lines on the wastegate, I wont be using them so can I just leave them open like that or do they need to be plugged? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike2JZ Posted January 29, 2018 Share Posted January 29, 2018 Nice build. You can leave the water ports unplugged if you don't use them Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sunny Posted January 29, 2018 Author Share Posted January 29, 2018 Nice build. You can leave the water ports unplugged if you don't use themAh ok great. Will put the wastegate on soon aswell now then Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hemanhead Posted January 29, 2018 Share Posted January 29, 2018 Nice car, there seems to be more and more Na-T projects kicking about now. I suppose as the cars is becoming more expensive to buy the viability increases, nice to see. Keep up the good work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sunny Posted January 30, 2018 Author Share Posted January 30, 2018 Anybody able to tell me where the hose highlighted connects to please? I dont remember disconnecting anything there and its the only one left now in the engine bay. Its coming from the firewall so not sure exactly where it goes. Is it something to do with the ac lines? as i have deleted those now. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheTurtleshead Posted January 30, 2018 Share Posted January 30, 2018 That little pipe drains the heater box of condensation. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sunny Posted January 30, 2018 Author Share Posted January 30, 2018 (edited) That little pipe drains the heater box of condensation.Ah ok. Thank you. Will just point it down towards the ground then and leave it. Thanks again for that. Edited January 30, 2018 by sunny (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sunny Posted February 4, 2018 Author Share Posted February 4, 2018 Not much done this week other than the intercooler mounted and the piping done. Afr guage and sendor arrived today. Planning on running single wideband with the analog output from the innovate guage for the stock o2 sensor. Anyone done this before? If so what ecu pins do you splice the analog into? I cant find the 2 o2 sensor pins on the repair manuals table. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Suprakeith Posted February 4, 2018 Share Posted February 4, 2018 Looking good, can’t beat the look of front fitted intercooler Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sunny Posted February 4, 2018 Author Share Posted February 4, 2018 Looking good, can’t beat the look of front fitted intercoolerThanks . They definetly look the part especially on a supra Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sunny Posted February 12, 2018 Author Share Posted February 12, 2018 Ok so got quite a bit done this weekend but didnt take any pictures. Will take some later when i get a chance. Things done - - finished intercooler mounting and piping, - downpipe, screamer and wastegate mounted, - 3 bar map sensor mounted and T'ed in - boost, oil press, oil temp, afr lines ran into cabin - Wired ECU Now, I really need help in getting a definite answer to this part if someone can help. So i have an Innovate MTX-L sensor and guage. The guage has an analog signal cable that can provide by stock ecu with analog signal so i can get rid of the stock O2 sensors. My stock O2 sensors are single wire ones if that helps. Anyway, I located the pins on the stock ECU - E9-48 and E9-47 - these feed to the stock O2 sensors. Now the bit I need help with is this - Do i cut both wires on stock ecu side and join them both to the analog cable of the Innovate Guage? Or do only need to cut one of the two? If i need to only cut one, can someone please please tell me or even guide me in the right direction as to which one to cut? Help would be very much appreciated as I did search on this forum and other and there are mixed answers - some say cut both, some say cut only one etc etc. Thanks in advance for any help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike2JZ Posted February 12, 2018 Share Posted February 12, 2018 Ok so got quite a bit done this weekend but didnt take any pictures. Will take some later when i get a chance. Things done - - finished intercooler mounting and piping, - downpipe, screamer and wastegate mounted, - 3 bar map sensor mounted and T'ed in - boost, oil press, oil temp, afr lines ran into cabin - Wired ECU Now, I really need help in getting a definite answer to this part if someone can help. So i have an Innovate MTX-L sensor and guage. The guage has an analog signal cable that can provide by stock ecu with analog signal so i can get rid of the stock O2 sensors. My stock O2 sensors are single wire ones if that helps. Anyway, I located the pins on the stock ECU - E9-48 and E9-47 - these feed to the stock O2 sensors. Now the bit I need help with is this - Do i cut both wires on stock ecu side and join them both to the analog cable of the Innovate Guage? Or do only need to cut one of the two? If i need to only cut one, can someone please please tell me or even guide me in the right direction as to which one to cut? Help would be very much appreciated as I did search on this forum and other and there are mixed answers - some say cut both, some say cut only one etc etc. Thanks in advance for any help. Stock 02 sensors are narrowband (0-1v), and the sensor you want to connect is a wideband (0-5v). The voltage output between the two are completely different. I've never heard/seen anyone cutting the 02 sensor wires on the stock ECU loom and connecting the wideband sensor analog output to it. Unless I'm missing something, I'm like 99% sure that isn't going to work. Seeing that you are running Emanage Ultimate, there is a Air/Fuel Option port harness that you can buy for it. That harness plugs straight into the one of the two option ports on the front of the ultimate case. With that harness you can connect your wideband analog output to it and get the emanage to see AFR values that way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sunny Posted February 12, 2018 Author Share Posted February 12, 2018 Stock 02 sensors are narrowband (0-1v), and the sensor you want to connect is a wideband (0-5v). The voltage output between the two are completely different. I've never heard/seen anyone cutting the 02 sensor wires on the stock ECU loom and connecting the wideband sensor analog output to it. Unless I'm missing something, I'm like 99% sure that isn't going to work. Seeing that you are running Emanage Ultimate, there is a Air/Fuel Option port harness that you can buy for it. That harness plugs straight into the one of the two option ports on the front of the ultimate case. With that harness you can connect your wideband analog output to it and get the emanage to see AFR values that way. Hi, yea I have an A/F port harness that I am going to connect the innvoate to the emanage but there are two output wires on the guage that are programmable to provide output from 0-5v, so according to the manual it says that one can be used to provide input for stock o2 (stock ecu) and one can be used to provide input for the wideband (emanage). But i think maybe i might just get a universal single wire o2 sensor and splice it into the stock o2 leads rather then going this way i guess as it seems easier :/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike2JZ Posted February 12, 2018 Share Posted February 12, 2018 Hi, yea I have an A/F port harness that I am going to connect the innvoate to the emanage but there are two output wires on the guage that are programmable to provide output from 0-5v, so according to the manual it says that one can be used to provide input for stock o2 (stock ecu) and one can be used to provide input for the wideband (emanage). But i think maybe i might just get a universal single wire o2 sensor and splice it into the stock o2 leads rather then going this way i guess as it seems easier :/ That sounds like you are making more work for yourself. Just take the yellow output wire from the innovate gauge and hook it up to your AF harness white wire. If the grey wire needs to be connected then ground it out at the same place where your innovate gauge grounds to Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sunny Posted February 12, 2018 Author Share Posted February 12, 2018 That sounds like you are making more work for yourself. Just take the yellow output wire from the innovate gauge and hook it up to your AF harness white wire. If the grey wire needs to be connected then ground it out at the same place where your innovate gauge grounds to Ok, thanks will do that then Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sunny Posted February 19, 2018 Author Share Posted February 19, 2018 So this weekend has been a total failure. Managed to get everything connected and wired ready to turn key but whenever i go to start the car, it wont even crank...nothing. so spent whole weekend trying ti find out what the issue is and came to the conclusion of some sort that the 12V connector going to the startee is not getting an any signal whatsoever. The starter itself is fine as i tested it by putting a wire in the 12V connector of the starter itself and connecting to the battery and suddenly it started cranking. Checked all the grounds, fuses, relays etc and all checked out ok. All the interior lights, guages etc work fine and the emanage also powers up fine on ignition but nothing happens on START. I cant for the life of me figure out why that little 12V connector going to the starter is not getting any signal when i go to start the car. Anyone have any ideas? Also the ecu ignition wire that i had to cut to put the emanage wires in is not getting any power either, on ignition or on START position. Does the car have to be on for that wire to get signal coming through? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sunny Posted February 19, 2018 Author Share Posted February 19, 2018 Little update. Turns out my starter relay really was gone. So i jumped the relay terminals and car started to crank but wouldnt turn on as if there was no fuel going to it or something. Couldnt hear fuel pump coming on either. Jumped the +b and fp terminals on the diagnosis box too and still no fuel pump. Is that pretty much telling me the fuel pump is gone? Need some advice, help, anything at this point... Attached is a video of me cranking it by jumping the starter relay terminals.http://cloud.tapatalk.com/s/5a8b3c1625c58/Snapchat-1086435160.mp4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sunny Posted August 14, 2018 Author Share Posted August 14, 2018 Ok so i have not updated this in a while. Quite a lot has been done since then. Finally managed to get the car started. Turns out there was issues in the ecu wiring which is all sorted now and properly wired in using a patch harness i got from a usa company called wiring specialties. Done properly this time by soldering which i got my dad to help with Then once the car was running, I had more issues to deal with. - Overheating like mad due to air being in the cooling system. Literally had to bleed it 4-5 times. - The tial Wastegate was also overboosting like mad so ended up getting a genuine turbosmart 45mm hypergate from whifbitz again and no more overboosting. However, I still get a small boost creep upto 8.4 psi with a 7psi spring. I think this may be due to the xs power manifold design. - heat wrapped the downpipe and screamer pipe too Also fitted a oil cooler due to the oil temp getting a bit high at times which resolved those issues. Anyway, last friday, finally got the car mapped at RA Motorsport up in Perth and couldnt be more happy with the job Russ did with it. Problem i got on the dyno day was stock 330s got maxed out after 6k so had to rev limit the car until i can get bigger injectors and do other supporting mods too. However, I now need to get on with fixing the Rear Main Seal which has been leaking for a while before i can properly drive the car about. I know i really should have done that when the engine was out but that was my mistake. Anyway, will update this post as i go along. Car runs and pulls very well now though. Will also update with a youtube link to the dyno run soon. Follow me on insta @sunny2jz if you like as I post most of the stuff there usually first. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Annabella Posted August 14, 2018 Share Posted August 14, 2018 That's a good result on the dyno, good stuff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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